mojoatomic

Thanks for the business! Reply sent

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It's a regular old 2N3563 I will say, however, that it's unlikely that it snuffed itself without provocation.

Ouch!

True drop in replacement. Having said that - I would however change out the 40 year old caps as a prophylactic measure - have a look at the schematic, you'll see that 9v is pulled BEFORE it reaches the regulator (blanking delay) on pin 10 of the TIA - that input still needs to be smooth and ripple free. C242 and C243 take care of that. The TSR 1-2450 only requires a (22uf) cap if the input voltage is greater than 32v. The .1uf that it sees won't hurt it at all.

Yeah, they'll retrofit any 7805 without the use of a heatsink - they just drop right in. Allied has the best price on them as far as I know, and I looked hard. I'm a fan - they really, really work well and just don;t produce any heat at all. On another note... I've looked high and low for for some really high quality 9v switching power supplies - and came up empty. So... I found a manufacturer willing to help me & I'm having them made! I'm really excited about this as I HATE Atari walwarts (always have) as I have seen them eat up more than their fair share of consoles.

Either, but a switching supply works better in my opinion. VS switching supply + 7508, this Tracopower unit + switching supply wins as the combo extremely efficient

I'm selling these kits on Ebay as well now - but the discounted price for AtariAge members still stands - $7 for the base kit, $2.50 extra for switchcraft jack - I'll pay shipping in the US

Thanks Nathan - let me know if I can help out with that 6 switch, your welcome to send the boards if you'd like

These work Great

The TIA is a custom chip, unfortunately. No drop ins available :-(

Maybe the 820ohm resistor doesn't play well with the AV mod? Could try lifting it and see if your color improves

Can you do a video of the jail bars if you get a chance? Preferably before and after the kit install if possible - I have a few ideas...

I know of no modern equivalent to the "stubby" RCA that you can currently purchase - I use a lathe and a parting tool on modern style compression type male RCA connectors to shorten up the end protrusion, and then a tool to break and slightly round the edge. Mate that to RG6 superflex cable and a compression type F-connector - makes the finest RF cable for the 2600 on the planet.

Unfortunately - no :-( You have 3 options... trim the nose of a regular RCA connector - this actually works fine Desolder and reuse the original stubby RF/RCA connector from your original cable Buy new stubby solder type coax style RCA connectors - I "Think" these are the ones...

Personally, I would make my own cable from RG6 and a crimp or compression type F type connector.

Make sure to also install the Voltage Regulator. If there are still issue, a RF cable replacement would be in order. Also, it is possible to do an RF adjustment, but only after you've qualified or eliminated the RF cable as the culprit.

Why drill holes at all? You could just use standard AV cable in place of the RF cable - make your connections internally.

Before video - after video -

Before - After -

Ok, just installed on a version 8 board... pin 6 & 9 of the TIA

Sure, I'll take a pic when I get back home -

The whole concept of new games for the 2600 is so cool to me, much less publishing them on carts. There are some EXTREMELY talented folks doing these, and many of the titles have just blown me away.

Depending on the model, you might find a "game" setting in the inputs - should take care of your luminance dropout issue.

Sounds like it's a French Ex-Pat! Dirty contacts on male cartridge and female cartridge connector can cause these symptoms. I would start by cleaning both with alcohol.