Tekman
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Posts posted by Tekman
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40 minutes ago, rietveld said:No, i am not part of FB.
Does the source tape need to be blank?
No. You will need a center directory tape (SmartBASIC or similar) to format CD tapes and a right directory tape (Buck Rogers or similar) to format RD tapes.
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The second console I used for testing was a unit that needed the MIB238 C11 fix to work. After the C11 issue came to my attention, I pulled units out of my stash until I found a unit with the issue to troubleshoot with and now has become my second test console.
Just to see, have you tried the alternate disk version from the archive as well as the ddp version? Between the official and unsorted images, the archive has five versions you can test with.
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Very strange. I just tried all three versions of Dragon’s Lair with three different MIB238 cards in two different consoles and all worked fine. It has to be your image or something with your console.
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I’m not aware of any titles that stop working when the MIB238 is installed. Dragon’s Lair works fine for me. Both the regular and alternate disk images as well as the ddp tape image all work fine for me.
Perhaps you have a bad image?
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You can’t simply connect the modem as is to the terminal port and just change the MIB settings. The modem and terminal ports are wired differently for the specific task. Like NIAD said, would need an adapter to do it.
Here are the pinouts for reference.
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Thanks! It's working great on the ADAM.
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Nice! Glad you're up and running.
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The MIB2 was a strange one with an outside power tap grabbing +12 and -5 for the two MC1488 232D drivers. I’m attaching the power pinout from the schematics of the gamma board. You still have one wire attached and that should let you know if it’s -5 or +12 and use process of elimination to know what the broken wire is.
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The third time is a charm! It’s now working fine on my ADAM. Thank you!
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Strange, I get no directional joystick control with Arno Dash at all with two separate ADAM consoles. The fire and arm button do work fine to start the game and that’s it. Here’s the strange part, the 3 factory coleco controllers I have don’t work but my commodore joystick works fine?! I tried port 2 like rietveld said to see if it works and I still get nothing. How on earth can this be explained. Something in code must be causing this because I use my controllers all the time and I also use them to scroll through the ATARIMAX menu to launch this game.
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It doesn't seem to work on the ADAM with an ATARIMAX Ultimate SD or on an ADE. I get the same garbled screen as rietveld.
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You should also run an additional separate wire from Pin-8 to COM of the power supply as well. This is especially true it you have a fairly thin gauge wiring and having four supply lines with only one ground is not good.
Did you check your +5V under load at the power supply or ADAM Gamma board? The power supply potentiometer needs to be adjusted while reading the voltage off the console Gamma board.
I seem to remember you saying you were using a modified serial cable and the wiring is more than likely not adequate enough to power the ADAM to start with and I would image you’re seeing a decent drop in voltage in the cable from the power supply by the time it reaches the console.
This is the best advice I can offer with what is given to work with.
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All I can suggest is to triple check your power supply pinout with what I posted earlier. To go any further with this, you will need to post detailed pictures and the connection diagram you’re using.
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The RQ-50B doesn’t have the best +12V specs, but should probably still work. It also has a -12V terminal that isn’t needed. In the future, the RT-50A is the best choice.
What is your +5V set to under load?
Do you have everything removed from the console while testing? Remove any internal expansion cards, disconnect all ADAMnet devices, including the keyboard, and disconnect any DDP drives.
Strange, holding reset should give you absolutely nothing at all and never boot up. I’m having trouble wrapping my head around that one.
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Did you go by this image floating around the net? It’s incorrect!
This picture incorrectly shows ADAMnet Data or ADAMnet Reset (I would have to look closer to remember which one) wired directly to +5. The black wire should NOT be wired to +5. In fact, the bottom brown and black wires should be left unconnected unless you still need the ADAMnet signal from the DB9 connector to still use the original ADAM printer, which now only needs GND, Reset, and Data.
The picture also fails to show the top two green wires (white on some consoles) are both ground from the power supply.
The rest of the image is correct. I’ll post the correct schematic for you to go by.
If you're using the popular RT-50A power supply, connect the following:
RT-50A ADAM DB9
+5 Pin 3
COM (GND) Pin 5 and Pin 8
+V2 (+12V) Pin 1 and Pin 2
V3 (-5V) Pin 4
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That is odd. It should be an exact copy with config and all. What copy program do you use?
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Thanks for sharing. Retrocampus looks great in 80 column! I'll be following this thread for sure!
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I’m going to send you my personal MIB238 card as it’s the only one I have available and let’s hope for the best! Sorry for your troubles.
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It doesn't work on any version of ADE. I tested it with an ADE Pro, ADE Pro Plus, and ADE Lite (they are all the same inside when running images and the only difference is input button configurations). I tried v0.80 when cartridge support was first supported and all the way up to v0.91RC and it never runs. Seeing the ADE is the only SD drive that can run cartridge ROMs, I'm not sure how Itchy Scratchy got it to work. Maybe an older version of Shamus would originally run and something in v2.5 made it not work. FYI, ADE cartridge ROM support is limited to standard 32K or less image sizes and doesn't use any RAM expansion to run them. It does however work perfectly with the Atarimax Ultimate SD cartridge, which is no surprise as it emulates a true cartridge and no memory trickery to get CV ROMs to run from the ADAM side.
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The MIB238 can use both 24 or 28 pin E/PROMS depending on jumper configuration. Yes, you can double your 4K image if you only have a 8K E/PROM with the correct jumper setting.
MIB238 Jumper Settings:
1-2 - Disables Printer port
3-4 - 2764 PROM ( 8K) 8,192
5-6 - 27256 PROM ( 32K) 32,768
7-8 - 2732 PROM ( 4K) 4,096
9-10 - 27128 PROM ( 16K) 16,384For a 4K you need to use 27C32 E/PROM and jumper setting 7-8
For a 8K you need to use a 27C64 E/PROM and double your 4K image and use setting 3-4Simple way to combine images:
Windows:
copy /b rom4k.rom + rom4k.rom romt8k.romLinux:
cat rom4k.rom rom4k.rom > rom8k.rom -
Copy and paste from the Coleco ADAM Facebook group.
AuthorUPDATE: It is a go. Instructions to follow soon. Thank you again for all the support!!-
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The MIB238 works great for 80 column when connected to a PC with a terminal emulator.
The terminal cable from the MIB238 will more than likely need a DB25 to DB9 cable. As for your PC, if you actually have a real serial port, you simply connect to that. If not, you will need a 9-pin serial to USB converter and use the USB port.
Take note of the serial com port established by the PC and configure your terminal program to reflect that port and set the baud rate to 19200 8,N,1. You can use PuTTY or your favorite terminal program of choice.
On the ADAM side, you need to use software that is configured for 80 column at 19200 8,N,1.
I like ADAMLink V for modem use with 80 column display because it’s a breeze to configure. The official MIB238 GitHub page has software examples you can use to easily get started.
I found an awesome Heath 19 (H19) terminal emulator that works perfectly with the new MIB238 card. It will display SmartKeys and absolute cursor positioning through emulation when using CP/M and TDOS. I have officially ditched PuTTY for this when using CP/M and TDOS. While using the 80MIB458.COM setup program, select YES when setup asks to display SmartKey descriptions on line 25 of an 80 column monitor and select YES on inverse video on line 25. Follow the official MIB238 documentation to configure everything else.
Win x64 - https://sebhc.github.io/sebhc/software/Utilities/H19Emu.zip
OSX - https://sebhc.github.io/sebhc/software/Utilities/H19OSX.zip
Linux x64 - https://sebhc.github.io/.../sof.../Utilities/H19EmuLinux.zip
Win x86 - https://sebhc.github.io/.../sof.../Utilities/H19Emu32bit.zip
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15 hours ago, NIAD said:For those with the necessary skills, Eric Pearson and John have released all the needed tech info on GitHub and the Facebook group to build your own.
The SD DDP hardware build on Eric's GitHub is his creation and is considered the official version. The hardware variant I'm offering is my creation and not officially part of the SD DDP GitHub project. Thanks for spreading the word on the SD DDP project, Eric did an amazing job!
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in ColecoVision / Adam
Posted
You’re talking about the Dallas DS1216E SmartWatch ROM. There was a guy on eBay that had a decent supply of NOS chips at one time but his supply has now dried up. If you can find a NOS one the battery is out of circuit until it’s power up for the first time. I'm certain all used ones have bad batteries by now. There’s info on the net that shows how to drill specific locations to sever old internal battery lines and how to wire an external battery to get them working again.
You must get the E version of the DS1216 because it's specific for inserting in a ROM location.
https://pdfserv.maximintegrated.com/en/ds/DS1216-DS1216H.pdf
It’s a fun mod for about 5 minutes and then you’ll more than likely never use it again. It requires patching EOS every time you want to use it. I think only a couple applications natively support it and I think T-DOS might have a patch for it.