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About toddtmw

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  • Birthday 01/27/1967

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    Cincinnati, Ohio
  • Interests
    Computers, Gaming, Table-top Games, Vintage games, Classic Rock
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    Pillars of Eternity II

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  1. toddtmw


    I bought something from someone in Canada that shipped on May 17th. It is expected to arrive today (2.5 weeks later). I live in Ohio, which is actually fairly close to Canada compared to other states.
  2. It would be best if you could find someone nearby who has a Kryoflux to dump it. I live in Ohio, which isn't exactly driving distance.
  3. I upgraded mine to the @MrMartian 1.2.05 version. It works great! Formatted double-density ultra speed and it just flies without even loading anything else (I put the sram charger in there too...) BITD, I got a RANA and then later got an Indus. the Indus was always my favorite. I liked it so much better than the Rana in all regards. (The Rana was ALWAYS drive 2!) Now that I've looked inside both of them, (As well 810's, 1050's and XF551's) I'm really impressed with the way the Indus is designed and laid out. You can move the drive mech out of the way for other repairs by simply removing a single ribbon cable. Much more elegant than any of the other designs. The only thing I don't like about the Indus (after looking at it inside and after using it) was that stupid drive cover/door. I never closed it because it was always just in the way. Even when it was open, it was dumb and made stacking drives problematic. It's engineered cheaply compared to the rest of the drive. Everything about it feels like a mistake. So many times I was tempted to just open the drive and remove it. I almost did it when I was working on this one just now, but nostalgia made me keep it on there. I'm also impressed (and a little worried) that it doesn't have any vent holes on the top. Did these overheat BITD? Thanks to a great community for making things like this available and supporting people that are learning to use these tools!
  4. Hi. When I was working on my Indus a metal disk came loose off the large silver thing (motor?) That rust-colored thing under it looks like it was double-faced tape or something similar. It was no longer sticky on either side. I used a little dab of super glue on both sides of it to stick it back on. Is it possible, that if that falls off, the drive doesn't work well with the metal cover on?
  5. I am unable to format a disk with the Rana with the most recent firmware posted here. I tried SD and DD in SDX. (I've not used SDX much, so it could be user error... I used the format command) I selected Atari mode. I also selected Ultra speed. But after the format it says the drive does not support ultra speed, then it says it does not support high speed, then it switches to normal and tries again and fails. I booted DOS 2.5 and it is unable to format a disk in ED or SD. (It just keeps formatting over and over again until I hit the break key.) These are NOS disks that I have not had issues with in the past.
  6. I used 1mm x 1mm "pixels" to draw the symbols and then a box 1 mm bigger around it. I ungrouped the model to find where the holes for the buttons are and then centered the symbols on that. I started a print.
  7. Good to know. I'll print it that way next time. But really, I like the connectors in a different color, I was just printing to see what it would look like. I might print the half I modified above to see how it turns out with the recessed logos. -Todd
  8. I love that idea! Challenge is the stripes. You kind of have to fill part of them in to get the symbols to show. This could be tweaked some, but this is a quick attempt to show what it might look like. Thoughts?
  9. Yeah, I was lazy and printed all four parts at once and the one connector needed supports for the flanges (or would need them for the inside of the connector) so it all printed with support on. I'm sure it would have been fine if I had printed the shell different without supports.
  10. Does someone have a list of what each button does for press and press/hold? I'd be happy to do this. If you can send me links to the tinkered for the other two, I can import them and take a shot at it and share it back for your review.
  11. So, for reset, maybe a circle with an arrow pointing back to the beginning. For rotate an arrow pointing from left to right. And the third button could just have a question mark? 🙃
  12. What are the three holes on the back? They do not seem to line up to anything on the motherboard. Also, I haven't been following the actual board design, but there are three buttons along the top. Should the case have some sort of indicator what those three buttons do? I know it won't be as clean if you try to add that, but most of us are getting up in years and might appreciate a little guidance... 😕
  13. I printed this yesterday. While I understand the desire to have the Atari 800 lines, it actually makes it harder to get a decent print. You either need to hope your printer can do really good bridging or you need to print with supports and then removing the supports in. such a small space is challenging. Other than that, the fit on this model is incredible. The connectors fit perfectly very tight tolerances all around, but enough to ensure it goes together. @mozzwald you did a great job on this! Very impressive!
  14. Now, if I could just figure out where these extra 4 screws go...
  15. Thanks. I bought a different programmer (GQ 4x4)that supports up to 25 volt and programmed a 2732 successfully with it, so I'm done with that useless 866. Just stupid that they would change it to only go to 18V.
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