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Everything posted by toddtmw

  1. Not really. DOS 3 never really caught on, so I doubt there is much out there that is compatible with it. I was always partial to myDos. It will likely read any .ATR you mount in Respeqt, but if the disk is a double-density disk, the 1050 will not be able to write it. .atx files have copy protection built into them, so if they even work with Respeqt, you will not be able to use them when written to the 1050. But, really for copying like this, you probaby don't want to use DOS. Better to use a disk copy program. Here are some disk copy programs:
  2. DOS 3 has a different format. Try dos 2.5.
  3. Respeqt is acting as (one ore more) disk drives. In the Atari world, disk drives don't see each other. The computer sees them. When data is copied from one drive to another, the computer tells Drive 1, read byte and then tells drive 2 to write the byte that it just read. Since the Atari is doing all the work, and Respeqt just looks like drives, the Atari will copy from one to the other as if they were real drives. Short answer: Yes, respeqt can be drive 1, the 1050 can be drive 2 and you can move files back and forth in either direction.
  4. To make the 1050 Drive 2, use the drive select switches on the back. It looks like one switch, but there is a black and a white switch stacked together. Here is a key: Yes, you can create real disks. And you aren't limited to DOS you have on floppy. You can download any DOS you want and boot from it using the USB2SIO. Once booted, put a disk in the real drive, format it and write DOS to it. (Or whatever else you want.)
  5. Sorry, that song is terrible. I'm not sure cleaning it up will help.
  6. Me TOO! Weird. Mine was on an 800, but still cassette and everything. (I bought the 800, couldn't also afford a drive!) I played the heck out of that game. Of course, once you waited all that time to load it, you HAD to play a good long time!
  7. I do agree. I am tired of reading these posts. Please stop.
  8. SDRive Max Case Tweaks-3.stl
  9. Switch on the front, no hole. Copy of SDRive Max Case Tweaks.stl
  10. No Switch SDRive Max Case Tweaks-2.stl
  11. No hole. SDRive Max Case Tweaks.stl
  12. The hole and the location of the switch. Would you like me to remove the hole?
  13. This is why I posted my last disclaimer. For the switch, you could hot glue it in place. But, without actually printing it and then trying to fit the arduino and screen in there, you cannot be sure there will be room for the switch. Same with the SIO hole, that location may not work depending on where the other arduino and screen components are. These are 5-minute tweaks, not proven solutions.
  14. Sorry, one other thing. I have not printed any of these and made sure they work. If you decide to pay someone to print it, know that it may not work and you will have to have it tweaked and printed again.
  15. I feel like that photoshop guy that "fixes"pictures for people. (https://twitter.com/fjamie013?lang=en) Here ya go: In seriousness though, where would you want the Atari Logo? Also, I take no credit for this. These are LITERALLY 5-minute tweaks to a design that, I'm sure, took hours, if not days to create. If you want to tweak it too, the Tinkercad model is here: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/4LDNU6mPgEg Kyle22 SDrive Max Case.stl
  16. Tajvdz SDrive Max Case v.3.stl EDIT: Added the back STL file without the tab Tajvdz SDRive Max Case Back.stl
  17. I cleaned up the lines around the crops. Tajvdz SDrive Max Case v.2.stl
  18. How about this? Tajvdz SDrive Max Case.stl
  19. You could do this by importing both models into Tinkercad (free web-based 3-d model editor) and manipulating the models. It's really easy to start using. Give it a try! It's really not that hard to use. Trust me.
  20. Another way to do this is to put indented text on the case and then print the letters separatly in another color and glue them into the indentations. I did something like this with a base I made for a nutcracker I printed from Thingiverse. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4049157
  21. Unless you mean you have two models and just want to print them at the same time. That is fairly easy to do in your slicer (assuming they both fit in your printer's build volume).
  22. Like most things, it depends on the complexity of the stl files and the skills of the person doing it. It's not like you can just concatenate them. You have to open them in an editor and munge around with them.
  23. Not sure which one you are looking at, but it comes down to print volume. Whatever you want to print has to be equal or smaller than the print volume. the problem with buying 3-D printed things is that 3-D printers are slow. Many relatively simple things can take the better part of a day to print. for me, if I had something that took 8 hours to print, I might be able to do 3 per day because I have to sleep and go to work. it’s just not worth it for me to print things for people and charge them. so, things cost more than they “should” to have printed, printers have reached the point where it’s quite possible that if you have 2 or 3 things printed, you could have bought a printer.
  24. I think part of the problem is there just weren't enough pixels to create something iconic. Pitfall Harry was one of the earliest games to try to make a humanoid character we could all relate to. It wasn't until the NES came out, that home systems had enough pixels and colors to make something that people could really relate to. I mean, can you think of anything as iconic for other systems prior to NES?
  25. Oh, we used to DREAM of shopping at Aldi!
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