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toddtmw

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Posts posted by toddtmw

  1. Posted

    Okay, I apologize in advance that this is not Atari related, but it is Retro in a wierd sort of way.

     

    Jon Bois: ‘What Football Will Look Like in the Future’

     

    Trust me on this, wether you like football or not (or even disagree on what football is) give this a chance, it is not in any way what it initially appears to be, and I have been mesmerized by it since I started following it last week. This is one of the coolest things I've seen on the web, well, ever really.

     

    A word of warning. If you do get sucked into this like I did, it WILL consume at least an hour or two of your time.

     

    I'd love to hear what others think of this, but I beg you not to give anything away to people that haven't experienced it themselves.

     

    -Todd

  3. Posted · Edited by toddtmw

    Best has the cable listed for $12 here http://best-electronics-ca.com/modems.htm

     

    If I recall, the 850, PR connection, MIO etc serial ports used a non-standard pinout. (compared to IBM pc, atari st etc) I recall making my own cables referencing pinouts from product doumentation.

     

    Edit: maybe I'm thinking of the 15 pin parallel port.. the DB9's may be standard

    Best won't do credit card orders under like $20 or $25 or something like that.

     

    Edit: nice setup, but it looks like you put it in a closet, it should be the showplace piece in your formal living room! 😀

    • Like 2

  5. Posted

    Has anyone got the Mac OS X version of this to work? I'm struggling to get a8rawconv to work.

     

    I am using Terminal. Both the a8rawconv and the raw files made by the Kryoflux software are in the same folder. Made sure I'm in the right place with 'pwd'. But I get :

     

    '-bash: a8rawconv: command not found'

     

    I am using a8rawconv MECCtrack00.0.raw MECC.atx

     

    Allan

     

     

     

    Did you try putting a ./ in front of the command?

    ./a8rawconv MECCtrack00.0.raw MECC.atx

  13. Posted

    It's really easy to do the Arduino thing. This is a very simple project. You need a breadboard and some jumper wires and a couple of LEDs and an UNO.

     

    Breadboard with jumpers:

    https://www.amazon.com/microtivity-400-point-Experiment-Breadboard-Jumper/dp/B004RXKWDQ/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1498514350&sr=8-13&keywords=breadboard

     

    UNO (I've seen these for a couple dollars less on sale at MicroCenter, but not sure if you have one near you):

    https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-ATmega328P-Development-Microcontroller-Compatible/dp/B01AR7YJ3O/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1498514503&sr=8-5&keywords=arduino+uno

     

    LED:

    I'm sure you know where to get LEDs... :)

     

    Then look at this schematic:

    https://github.com/FozzTexx/DRAM-Tester/blob/master/schematic.jpg

     

    It shows which pins on the chip need to be jumpered to which pins on the arduino.

    It doesn't show the LED's. They need to be connected to pin 4 (status) and pin 19 (done) on the arduino. Just put the + leg on one of the rows on the breadboard and the - leg on the outside ground row and then run pin 9 and pin 14 to the same rows as the + side of the LED and run a jumper from ground on the arduino and to the outside ground row on the breadboard,

     

    It should look something like this:

    post-50483-0-79906600-1498515296.jpg

     

    The chip you want to test will straddle the middle line right up against the top. The Author used a ZIF socket. You should be able to pit a ZIF socket on the breadboard if you want.

     

    Then, download the Arduino IDE (not the web editor):

    https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software

     

    Then run it and then cut and paste this code into the IDE (replacing whatever is there when the IDE opens):

    https://raw.githubusercontent.com/FozzTexx/DRAM-Tester/master/Arduino-DRAM-tester.ino

     

    Then under tools->board, pick Arduino/Genuino Uno

    Then plug the arduino into a USB part and then from tools->Port, choose the one that lists your Arduino.

    Then sketch->upload (it will ask you to save it, go ahead and save it), let it compile and upload. The red light will come on for a long time while it is "testing" and eventually the other light will come on when it is done.

     

    Once the upload is complete, you can unplug it from your computer and plug it into any USB power source. Then unplug the uno from power, put in a chip and then power it up to start a test.

     

    According to the web site, it sounds like it takes a while to run the test.

     

    The author wrote this for Apple IIGS memory, I assume that is the same (or similar enough) that this will work on Atari memory.

     

    I do not have any memory chips available to test with, so I haven't tested this with actual memory.

     

    You might want to test with a "spare" chip first to make sure it doesn't damage the chip.

     

    If this still feels like something you do not want to tackle, I'm happy to put one together and load the software and send it to you.

     

    Todd

     

  15. Posted

    If you've replaced all the replaceable parts, doesn't that narrow it down to a motherboard or solder issue?

     

    That Atari writer screenshot feels like a memory issue to me. It's like the app is building the character set but it's not "taking".

     

    What if you swapped ALL the memory chips? Maybe more than one is bad?

  18. Posted

    My wico Command Control joystick was too tight for a long time and then all of the sudden, it no longer springs back to center very well.

    I tried to take it apart but I cannot even get the bat handle through the hole and even if I did, there is a large plastic white part that looks like it might be glued together?

    I've read about replacement grommets, but can't figure out how to get to it.

    Anyone have advice on how to get to the actual stick assembly? (The leafs switches are fine...)

     

    Thanks.

  24. Posted

    Incidentally, Paperclip got me and my girlfriend (now my wife) through 2 years of college papers before I got my Atari ST....

     

    The funny thing is, I am way more attached to my 8-bit Atari past than my ST Atari past. I (so far) have no desire to try to recreate what I once had on ST, but have been obsessed with 8-bit for a long time (in emulation) and for the past 6 months or so looking at real hardware...

    • Like 3

  25. Posted

    I long ago lost the joystick dongle that comes with Paperclip (Batteries Included) and I was wondering if anyone had a extra or new how to make one or if.....THIS would work. And just out of a curious nature....how did that thing work anyway.

     

    Thanks.

     

    I had Paperclip for my 130 XE. (I don't have it anymore.) I also had a device that plugged into a joystick port and then you plugged a joystick into it. It had a dial on top that would alter how long a delay between pressing fire. So, in shooter games, you could just hold the button down and the computer thought you were hitting it repeatedly. I found that if I used that and held the joystick button down, Paperclip worked. I used to put a joystick button under a chair leg to make it work. It was more just because I could do it, since I actually had the dongle...

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