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About Blake

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    Space Invader
  • Birthday 12/26/1982

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  1. What is it loading like now? Does it load and save new stuff ok, but just not old stuff? Or does it not load or save(if you are able to check with a known-working unit) anything at all? The difference is important. Since the Antic Magazine's solution involves different components from the Atari solution, and since they are both designed to "clean-up" the signal, you can confidently do both if you want, but the Atari mod is the most likely to provide a substantial increase in functionality, or in some cases, provide functionality at all, where as Antic's is more of a fine-tuning, for a unit that already works, but not every single time.
  2. I have found a few extra pieces from the dead USB drive mentioned above, which appear to be later revisions\additions to the guide's repair section! Specifically the article I found online from Antic Magazine, which may, or may not have been the inspiration for Atari's last minute change of components. And a few photos that are helpful in repairing-upgrading-modifying the 410's electronics, and a replacement for the components comparison photo #264, with more information regarding Antic's part's list, for their version of the mod which is SLIGHTLY different than Atari's mod. https://www.mediafire.com/?vyil77tdj5w72ca 729.98KB https://www.4shared.com/archive/nZL9kdqOei/Missing_Pieces.html 729.98KB
  3. It seems that in my haste, I forgot to add: > Items that a circled are to be removed during that step, or that step and the following step. > The connections that electronically engage the motor, were bent further apart in a few photos, so as to display every angle, and detail. They were bent back after. > The resistor and capacitor replacement solution from Atari, and online archives, is designed to narrow the bandwidth of the signal coming from the cassette, to filter out noise, that became a lot louder, when Atari decided to do a last-minute upgrade to the internal signal amplifier, to one that was more powerful. I'll show you the difference between the two wave patterns on a oscilloscope when I make the video.
  4. Here: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/ATARI-410-Tape-Cassette-Drive-Belt-Kit-2-belts-/331692697200?hash=item4d3a6ce670:g:EKQAAOSw~bFWL2IQ They are being sold by recycling_electronics, or you can contact user Magic Knight
  5. Here you go: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/266536-atari-410-program-recorder-guide/
  6. A long, LONG, time ago, on a computer, now dead, and another, and another, and 2 laptops, and finally on a USB drive, also now dead, I put together an instructional guide to taking apart a 410 drive, with emphasis on simplicity, and allowing for a couple improvements and repairs. It has been months since then, but the effort to put the guide out never died, and now today, I can release the guide in a photographic step-by-step format, in numerical order, with sudo-progressive sections, featuring a new solution to drive mechanism stuttering, a comparison of an old, used model, and a new-in-box, old-stock model drive, an electronics repair and problem-analysis section with documentation, and a more condensed, re-assembly guide. I would like to do a complete analysis of the head alignment procedure, and electronics replacement\upgrade\repair with my new oscilloscope, as described in the official documentation, which is included in this guide, and I had intended on making a version of this guide as a video, so I will combine them, but free-time is short right now, so it will have to wait. IT SHOULD BE NOTED THAT NEW BELTS WORK BETTER THAN OLD ONES, SO IF YOU CAN AFFORD IT, YOU SHOULD GET THEM HERE: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/260645-atari-cassette-belts-now-available-1010-410-xc12/ You will also note that the older model drive in this guide is using a few elastics in place of belts, this is not a permanent solution, and should only be used in a pinch, or in a testing situation where the belts would be subject to considerable use, for the sake of your precious belts! I hope it helps at least 1 person, then my effort is worth it. You will need 7-Zip, or another archiving program to extract the files. There are no programs or viruses in these archives, only pictures, text, and pdf. I take no responsibility for what you do, or fail to do, with this guide. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK! And enjoy! http://www.4shared.com/archive/LlNW5P2uca/Final_Cut.html http://www.4shared.com/archive/UonUWLLsei/re-assembly.html http://www.mediafire.com/file/dzd8ks7j7o38boe/Final_Cut.7z http://www.mediafire.com/file/wpjqbzpa34qlj8x/re-assembly.7z
  7. Sorry for the delay, I took over 350 HQ pics, and I'm learning new video editing software. The guide will take 2 formats: a slide show featuring narration, and a text and pictures archive file for easy searching. The archive will be released after the video, as renaming pictures, and applying captions takes more time. But I wanted to give an update, and not leave you with a wink and a promise, since it's taking more time than I expected to compile.
  8. The Rewind and Fast Forward buttons are unique in that they have to small metal plates/contacts that can get bent and be too far apart for the plastic inside to push them together to make contact, also, because of the microscopic arcing on the surface of the contacts, where contact is actually made, can get dirty with corrosion and carbon build-up from the arcing. The contacts themselves are copper, and they have a specific dimple in the metal where they connect, since it is so small, it can get dirty, quickly. I'm putting a complete tear-down, repair, replace, and put-back-together, post together for the standard model 410 drive which should be insightful for you. I'll have it up by later today. I have found a variety of information online concerning these tape drives, and since I needed to do this process with both of my 410's, I decided to make it educational for those who come across this thread looking for some "rubbers". And a fix for those seemingly "broken" drives.
  9. I agree, but I was asking because I had heard (somewhere) that the second pokey was receiving the same signals from the motherboard as the first one was, just with a slight delay, to create the illusion of stereo, by essentially creating dual mono output. Maybe I'm thinking of the NES stereo mod?
  10. If I understand what you're saying. Essentially, you want to have a GUI that will select the proper pre-built program that the user would select based on their PIC. A "HyperSpin" for your (PIC) "rom collection" so to speak. Could probably do it using RespeQt/AspeQt by mounting a folder image to one of the empty drives, and have a separate small menu-based program, that is just there to eliminate several steps, and automate a few processes. The program would load the correct build without having to build it, so that you could do PIC flashing at the drop of a hat, and with little effort, you just drop in the chip, and then 2 clicks later, the chip is being programmed, or reprogrammed?
  11. I can't argue with that. I was only thinking of a compromise on compatibility, that seemed desireable at the begining of the project, I didn't know that the amount of chips that would be left out was so small, my apologies. You guys have really done a great job making this happen though. It really shows the versatility of the early home computers.
  12. DMSC said: mytekcontrols, on 13 Jan 2016 - 7:09 PM, said: "Good, I think that this is the simplest circuit that will work across so many different PICs. Today I tried adding an 74LVC14 to the clock line (it was the only schmidt triggered ID I had), and it was not so easy. The problem is that the 74LVC is *so* fast that it toggles with the noise in the Atari outputs, see this image (magenta is the Atari CLOCK output, cyan is the 74LVC14 output, yellow is the Atari DATA output): The output is so noisy because in low state there is only the pull-up driving the line. Adding the 1k pull-up resistors attenuates the noise, but also attenuates the signal, so it does not always work. My final solution was adding an 2k2 pull-up resistor plus the 4.7nF capacitor, this removes almost all the noise and makes the transitions smooth, see: With this setup, all my PICs work, but I think that the previous solution with the transistor is better. I think that newer PICs had problems before because the inputs are faster than old PICs, so are similar to the 74LVC inputs, my new measurements tend to support that." The DIP with different resistors would go on the CLK line for more compatibility.
  13. I'm currently using a 27" CRT, but I'm keeping my eyes open for a monster 36", I'm guessing that it won't affect the overall size of the workable screen area much from what it is now, but it might help the accuracy a bit with the cursor being the size of the tip of my thumb!
  14. Just checked it out. I like the idea of a combination upgrade, especially, since it requires less soldering, and that always reduces the risk of something going wrong. Would the s-video mod affect the functioning of the light pen/gun at all? Edit: Do you know if the left and right pokeys can be programmed independantly, then the left and right combined via a Y audio adapter, so you could have 8 voices simultaneously, instead of 8 voices total?
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