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mozzwald

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Everything posted by mozzwald

  1. A new firmware update is available at https://fujinet.online/download FujiNet Version: 0.5.e09997c5 Version Date/Time: 2021-01-16 02:23:59 Build Date/Time: Sat Jan 16 23:27:52 UTC 2021 New Stuff For You: * Web UI: now shows working path & filename for mounts * Web UI: new rewind button for CAS files. After CSAVE you can rewind cassette to the beginning for playback * Modem bugfix: increase delay for loading handler * SIO2BT: state is saved in config file. If BT is enabled it will startup in SIO2BT mode (Feature request by @MrFSL) Please do not respond to this thread. If you have an issue, start a new post in the FujiNet subforum, open an issue on the github tracker or ask for assistance in Discord chat.
  2. Can you provide a link to the original post?
  3. Yes, thank you, I can't count either. It's pin 5 and 6 that need bridged
  4. The problem with v1.3 board not flashing is due to an unconnected pin on the CP2102-QFN24. VIO should be connected to VDD. I will update the design files soon. The fix for already made boards is a simple solder bridge:
  5. I believe some programs stay resident in memory and some do not when you press reset on the Atari. Someone more knowledegable could clarify.
  6. There have been requests for being able to quickly save a tnfs disk to SD card but it's not implemented. You can however use a disk copier: create/mount a new disk image on the SD card and copy the disk from a tnfs server to your new disk image.
  7. I've had another user with the same problem and after some troubleshooting it appears the capacitor responsible for the auto reset circuit (C2) is the culprit. I will be doing some testing to figure out a better (lower) value.
  8. https://github.com/FujiNetWIFI/fujinet-platformio/commit/a7951184a1955571d344a3ab02d44d299b3f5ee9
  9. Are you pushing it in all the way? The Chelco cable I have has to be pushed in pretty hard to bottom out in the port. The other cable (labeled JAE) is a different style and goes in smooth and bottoms out nicely. Do you have another cable to try? The images below show how much gap when the cable is all the way in. Make sure yours is in that far
  10. Ok, thanks for trying. If another cable doesn't work or you can find another, send me a pm and we'll figure it out
  11. Can you try the attached flash tool which slows the baud rate down when flashing? The FujiNet is communicating with the computer since it's showing the debug output, it's just having a problem with flashing for some reason. FujiNet-Flasher-macos_slow.zip
  12. You can plug FujiNet into any SIO port, plug or receptacle, anywhere in the chain. Make sure the disk swap sounds are turned on using the FujiNet web configuration page (http://fujinet or the ip address of your FujiNet) Your Incognito is slowing the boot time enough for FujiNet to be ready. No need to worry
  13. Unplug USB from the FujiNet, hold A button and plug in USB cable to FujiNet. All the lights should turn on dim. Then try to flash. If you have another cable, try it too (even though this one works with your other FujiNet).
  14. The tape method is the best option for those who have units already (I do this myself). Adding a curved cutout to the front side of the case like the one on the back might help. Not an option. The buttons and antenna take up all the available space up top. This could be possible with some rearranging and rerouting I investigated using a push/push type socket but none are small enough to fit where the current one resides. Putting it on the front is an option but makes it more difficult for assembly. not sure about this
  15. I built 5 yesterday, they sold out by this morning. I should have some more up this evening
  16. I understand it seems like a waste to not use the original board. At least you can salvage the 2 SIO ports and put them on the FujiNet board. For me, I see no point in keeping the original board. I can't even remember the last time I had a landline. Put one original 1030 in a museum, make the rest FujiNets Lol, I see, you thought I was using the actual FujiNet connectors in the 1030 🤣 no, that would be silly. I whipped up that design in about 30 minutes from the v1.3 schematic just to show where everything would go. I have yet to design a part in Diptrace for the original SIO connector.
  17. Yep. I would not put anything but a FujiNet in the 1030 case. Who needs anything other than FujiNet ;) Sure, injection molding is better quality than 3D printing but it just works. Maybe Sikor can do a run of FujiNet connectors for those who want expensive high class parts (not likely). In the mean time, I'm happy as a clam with my 3D printed plastics. If they break (not likely), I'll make more.
  18. I just whipped this up based on the available v1.3 schematic. Board dimensions are rough but close to fitting in the 1030. It's a lot of wasted space maybe split it into 2 boards with a cable connecting the two pcbs. Anyways, this is the rough layout I had in mind.
  19. How about full size SD card in the front? would require drilling a slot, but makes more sense to have it easily accessible. MicroUSB in the back. 3 buttons up front next to SD slot.
  20. Back to FujiNet v1.3 ... I pushed a change to the 3D printed SIO Plug. The new plug has more plastic that separates the pins better and the front mating holes are now flat instead of being dome shaped. This allows the pins to be better aligned during assembly. The previous design allowed too much play inside the plug holes and the pins could be crooked when soldered. The domed holes didn't print very well for me either. The best way to assemble the connectors is as follows: Insert 13 pins into receptacle; ensure they are straight Insert empty plug into receptacle from step 1 Insert 13 pins into plug Solder plug to FujiNet pcb Carefully remove receptacle from plug; hold plug against pcb so it does not come out with the receptacle Solder 1st row of pins on receptacle; cut excess from 1st row Solder 2nd row of pins on receptacle; cut excess from 2nd row
  21. I suspect you have a solder bridge on the USB/UART chip or the dual transistor responsible for auto-reset into flash mode. If you're fine with manually entering flash mode every time then it probably doesn't matter. Otherwise, check with your vendor about repair/replacement.
  22. Do you have to do this every time you update? If so, then I suspect you have a hardware problem
  23. I've had plans to make a board for the 1030 for some time now because I want one for myself. Wise I am not, selfish I am. I want what I want, me me me. Now, where did I put all that freetime...
  24. Screenshots may help, but I think it needs to be run as administrator to work. Or it could be windows defender blocking it?
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