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oryan_dunn

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About oryan_dunn

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  1. I removed the DC jack and disassembled it to clean the contacts. It now looks and works like new. https://imgur.com/a/Iqv1rlc
  2. I just wanted to pop in here and give a big THANK YOU for this. My Game Gear also did not work with batteries, but did via the DC jack. Even though the picture doesn't seem to be available, I did pull the service manual and checked, no connection. I jumpered the two leads and it works on batteries now! So, I'm in the process of finding a replacement DC jack.
  3. Honestly, that was my experience, which I think I reported earlier in this thread. My order somehow ended up in purgatory for weeks in his email. I had to call, and even then, he would only ship out the items in my original email. For me to get a couple of the additional items I wanted, I had to put in another order. Super super odd for an otherwise such a personal interaction. Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk
  4. tl;dr: I have 3 drives, all 3 drives have speed set to 199.8ms-200.2ms via the Copy ][ Plus program. Floppies formatted in drive A work fine in drive A, disks formatted in drives B and C work fine in drives B and C. Are there any other adjustments to make to bring drive A in family with drives B and C? body: I had earlier asked for advice on programs that could test floppy disks and got some suggestions (http://atariage.com/forums/topic/262456-any-floppy-disk-check-programs/). A bit of history. The three drives mentioned above when I first started working on these: A: Apple Disk ][ with Drive 1 sticker (made lots of noise, didn't seem to read any floppies) B: Micro SCI with Drive 2 sticker (seemed to work fine) C Apple Disk ][ without drive sticker (only seemed to spin the disk) I started using ADTPro and created a few disks using the drive A. Those disks worked fine in drive A only. All existing floppies only seemed to work in drive B. Then, I was an idiot and somehow managed to break both drives A and B. After looking around, it seemed I needed new 74LS125 chips. A few days later and a dozen new 74LS125s, I actually got all 3 drives working. Turns out, drive C had a bad chip as well, in fact, when I removed it from the socket, the bottom of the chip fell off. It was well and truly smoked! So, will all 3 drives working and the heads fully cleaned, I used Copy ][ Plus to check things out. I got all 3 drives dialed in to 200.0ms as close as I could. Drives B and C seem to be 100% compatible and seem to read old floppies and new floppies written on drives B and C just fine. Drive A works only with disks written on drive A. Are there any other adjustments other than drive speed that I can adjust to get drive A working?
  5. Thanks! I have a 400 as well, but it has a 48k upgrade. So I assume it'd work in it as well.
  6. Will this cart work with an unmodified 400 or 800? I'm recently getting back into my Atari and am trying my best to sort out all the new accessories and modifications out there now.
  7. Thanks! I'll give that a shot when I get home. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Does any software exist to test a floppy disk to tell you if it's still any good? I'm thinking along the lines of something that formats the disk and fills it to check for bad sectors. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Does any software exist to test a floppy disk to tell you if it's still any good? I'm thinking along the lines of something that formats the disk and fills it to check for bad sectors. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. So I got around to fixing one of my two broken supplies. I installed a case mounted fuse holder so a fuse swap will be simple if were to blow again. I used this fuse holder: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/littelfuse-inc/03420858H/F015-ND/17931 And got a couple of these fuses: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/littelfuse-inc/0313005.MXP/F1769-ND/778306 It works quite well. It was a very tight fit with the fuse holder. I'd have liked to have used a push button reset breaker instead, but I don't think there'd have been any way to fit that in the case.
  11. So, I ended up getting these stabilizer inserts. I had to shave the cross section down since the 400 B-key keyboard is lower profile. Doing that, though, cut off the plastic nubs that held the pieces in the spacebar. I ended up using a pair of pliers to distort the cross section, so when I inserted it into the spacebar they stayed in place. I'm not sure how robust this will be over time. The other thing I had to do was use an exact knife to make the opening bigger since the diameter of the crossbar is larger than a standard stabilizer bar. Overall, it seems to work ok.
  12. Thank you! I obviously can't review for accuracy at this point since I'm new to all of this. The only other row I'd suggest maybe adding is compatibility. I seem to remember reading that one (or maybe more) of the carts didn't work with a stock 800. If that is the case, then a compatibility row would also be important for newbies just starting out.
  13. Ok, that makes sense, it's like an SIO2SD but with a USB drive instead. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Thanks for the link. I read through it, and maybe I'm a bit slow, but it seems like it does the same thing. The link at the bottom of the page you linked to goes to a German site, so until I get home on a PC, I'll not be able to translate it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. That sounds like an excellent thing to elaborate on in a newbie thread. What's the difference? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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