RARusk

"Further more, FYI, most gamesaves that won't let you xfer to a memory card will NOT work on another console if you manualy copy it direct because the save get coded to the console it was created on. Trying to use such saves on another console will give invalid/corrupted save messages." Well, that sucks ass. If your motherboard fries then all that hard work on those files goes "poof" becaues they won't work on another unit even if you managed to save them to another device. Real nice. Whose fucking bright idea was that? BTW, my Xbox is unmodded with the exception of a rechargable battery (to maintain the game clock), my (second) Samsung 616-T drive, and a third party IDE cable.

"Using a modified ATX power supply, should be able to. The 20pin molex connector of a standard PC and the Xbox are completely different, and needs to be re-wired accordingly." Do you have to modify the power supply itself or just the connector?

Would unlocking a Xbox hard drive allow it to be seen by either a Mac or PC? I am having problems with my Xbox's power supply and I would like to backup all of my game saves (including those that can't be put on a memory card) to another machine. I have to use a external power supply to get the hard drive to run and now my modded Samsung 616-T drive won't read discs because it is still connected to the Xbox supply (don't know if it has been damaged or not though). Is there any way to replace the Xbox power supply with a PC power supply?

http://www.atariage.com/forums/index.php?s...c=91059&hl= Since I made that topic I've done some more GFAQs contributions and built a paddle controller for T2K. But I just haven't got around to playing T2K since I completed the controller.....

"I feel bad for the makers because this may just wind up a sleeper that falls under the radar. Really too bad." That happened to their last release: "The Chronicles of Riddick: Escape From Butcher Bay". And while we're on the subject..... Since Riddick, which was released on the Original Xbox, could not be made BC with the 360 they decided to remake it for the X360 and PS3 instead. They are going to add more to the single player side plus multiplayer. Should be awesome (and released later this year - probably around Xmas). I also really need to get "The Darkness" myself.....

Agreed. First heard his stuff on the DreamCast version of "MDK2". Then, on the demo of "Hitman 2: Silent Assassin", I was totally blown away. I bought the game on the strength of both the gameplay and the music. I also own both the game and soundtracks for "Hitman: Contracts" and "Hitman: Blood Money". I also hope that he is doing the soundtrack for the currently-in-production "Hitman" movie. He also has a cool website with free downloads of some of his music.

Let's see..... "Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom" (Arcade) (One of my all-time favorites) "Road Runner" (Arcade) (Another all-time favorite). "Star Wars" (Arcade) "Krull" (Arcade) "Firefox" (Arcade) "Discs of Tron" (Arcade) "The Three Stooges" (Commodore Amiga) "Spy vs. Spy" (Commodore 64) "Red Storm Rising" (Commodore 64) "Super Godzilla" (SNES) "Turok 2: Seeds of Evil" (N64) "Star Wars: Rogue Squadron" (N64) "GoldenEye" (N64) Those are the ones I enjoyed playing and recall off the top of my head. BTW Opeygon, I like your avatar. Red Dwarf FTW!!!

And still no "Chronicles of Riddick".....

"It's not pink, it's lightish red".....

If the drive tray noise bothers you so much then why not track down a flip top mod? Should solve that problem. I prefer the SCPH-30001 units myself. With the service manual in hand I can do nice RGB Analog video modifications plus I can use a hard drive (getting a copy of HDLoader is something I need to do - and get a decent hard drive). For DVD movies I just use my Mac Mini so that's not an issue (although I managed to disable half of the MacroVision signal in my latest PS2 RGB mod - can't figure out where the extra sync pulses are coming from as of yet).

"but damn.. thast a lot of weight to lose from a game." I've actually read some stuff about people losing lots of weight from constantly playing DDR. Some people have actually gone as far as buying full arcade versions of DDR to use as weight loss equipment.

"I personally have never heard of a blowjob killing an NES for example, in fact they tend to last well beyond their expected life due to that.( in the case of Nintendo, faulty design, not the blowjob is to blame for the problems)" Blowjobs and NES's. Oh, the mental pictures one can paint with that.....

"I'm glad rumble is gone. In most games it was just annoying. Now I don't have to hunt through the option menu just to turn it off." With my favorite PS2 controller I opened it up, gave each plastic part a good cleaning, and simply removed the rumble motors from the motherboard before I reassembled the joypad. Feels better without all of the extra weight.

And "The Chronicles of Riddick: Escape From Butcher Bay". I would love to add some Xbox 360 data into my COR:EFBB guide that I have posted at GameFAQs.

Interesting. How much did you have to pay for them and how good are they? Oh, and what part numbers did you get? I'm curious since I decided not to go through them. By the way, I haven't played T2K since I completed the controller. I have been busy finishing an RGB hack to one of my PS2's using info I gleaned from a service manual I downloaded and getting ready to get back into FAQ writing mode with the imminent release of "Grand Theft Auto: Vice City Stories" (PS2) in March. I'll see if I can squeeze in a game or two of T2K and give the controller a good run through.

"Well allow me to thank you for making me feel terribly old, having been born in 1970!" Then I must feel older. I turn 40 in April. First game I learned how to beat was SeaWolf back in the mid-70's.

Yes. It is for the 30001, 30002, 30003, and 30004 models.

In my quest to know more about the PS2's video, and hopefully trick it into doing Progressive Scan without the aid of a boot disc like the Xploder HDTV, I googled around and found this page: http://www.eserviceinfo.com/download.php?fileid=27755 It is here that you can download, in PDF form, a complete service manual (with a secondary manual included) for the SCPH-30000 model of the PlayStation 2. It contains detailed schematic and circuit board information complete with parts lists. The secondary manual shows you how to properly disassemble a SCPH-30000 (Version 4) PS2. An awesome find for those interested in knowing more about the PS2 (so they can hack it up, of course). The manual is in multi-part form and you need to download all four parts before decompressing.

"What really pisses me off about Texas is that we have almost no Jaguar games in the wild. I get so mad because it seems that up north it easy to find Jaguar games...not the case here. I went to seven(!) game stores over the last 6 months looking and only found Cybermorph!" If you're willing to do some driving I suggest driving down to Austin. There are two places that I know of there that carry some Jag stuff. Not much but they might have something you're looking for. The places are: GameFellas (in Northcross Mall) and Game Over (in a strip mall just east of Northcross Mall - where Anderson Lane meets up with Lamar).

After several months I finally sat down to try to fix this damn thing up. After conversing with CUI I found that it takes a month to get one of their encoders because they have to be built for you and tested. Didn't feel like waiting that long. I did an autopsy on the little board that had the sensors. I found that one of the signals was coming from the emitter and another was coming from the transmitter. The emitter had four pins and the collector had three pins. I hadn't seen any optical related parts that were like that before and I couldn't find any replacements here (nor did I ever find another Wingman Warrior joystick). So I decided to abandon the optical board and look around for standard encoder replacements. I found two solid candidates: a TV/VCR remote control and a Hewlett Packard keyboard (both I picked up from flea markets and thrift stores). The encoder from the keyboard (which was used for volume control) had about 24 poles but after testing I found that it would not work for the controller. My controller was designed to be spun faster than Tempest's controllers because of the weights and I found that if you spun this encoder too fast it would essentially stop moving - because it was getting too much information too fast. The encoder from the remote control had fewer poles (about eight) but it performed much better. As a matter of fact it was almost perfect. So I cut away the section where the encoder would come through on the remote and grafted it to my controller. I also had to do some rewiring to the plug and cable. The first three pins ( 1, 2, 3 ) on the top row are Keypad Columns 1, 2, and 3 respectively and the first three pins on the bottom row ( 6, 7, 8 ) are Keypad Rows 2, 3, and 4 respectively. The only downside is that the spinner itself doesn't spin nowhere near as fast as it was when it was still using the optical board. That's because it is attached to a regular style encoder and you can't have that loose style spin. But once one gets used to it I think it will be fine. The major upside to this encoder is that I no longer have any joypad interference. When the spinner is at rest it settles into one of the notches within the encoder (which you can't really feel through the spinner shaft) and turns it "off". This allows me to use the keypad during gameplay, something I couldn't do with the optical board. So I am pretty much finished. I will try to use my device to beat the game at a later date. Now for some pictures: This one is the new encoder in place. I took the dial that was attached to the encoder and glued it to the weights on the bottom of the spinner shaft after drilling a hole through the center of the dial and cut the pole that the light wheel was on. This is the remote control I acquired the encoder from. There are other remote controls that use a similar encoder so these should be fairly common.

Bah! Screwed up here.....

Mmmmmmm......tacos.....

http://nfggames.com/wiki/doku.php?id=av:gamecube_rgb This should answer a lot of questions about what's inside the GameCube Component Video Cable. It is also one of my better hacks and contributions to the GamesX Wiki.

"The only problem with this method is that it involves either modding the CD32 (I'm not sure offhand how difficult a mod it is, but it would definitely require some soldering experience) or buying an expansion module like the SX-1." Although I do not have a CD32 (and I do want one by the way) I did pull up some info on the expansion port. You can tap the necessary RGB signals off of the port so such a modification shouldn't be hard to do. Then it is just a matter of hacking in a 9-pin or 15-pin plug (depending on monitor) into the case near the other video plugs. Of course, if you can find the proper card edge connector, you can probably make your own RGB device without opening up the CD32.

In my 30+ years of gaming the single most frustrating game I ever played is "Stuntman" (PS2). The reason for it's frustration level is lots of design flaws that make the game much more difficult than it needed to be. One time it pissed me off so bad that I pulled the game out if the PS2 and was ready to snap the disc in half. But I quickly cooled down, put the disc in the case, and haven't played it since. I hear that the developers have fixed these flaws for the upcoming "Stuntman 2" (PS3). But I will believe it when I see it (if I had a PS3 that is). As for those having problems with San Andreas' Flight School you can always download a copy of my San Andreas guide from GameFAQs for assistance.....