RARusk

This is what I've been saying all along - wait for the modders and hackers to get their hands on it before final judgement of the unit. Sony's sloppy handling of everything has made it easy to get into the Classic's innards. Once the modders simplify the procedures of upgrading the emulator and adding games then I expect the Classic to sell out quickly and become collector's items.

I should point out that, after going through most of the titles on my hard drive, about a third of them (I have about 100 games on the drive) have a wide screen option. This should allow you to mitigate the screen stretching problem to some degree. For example, with the exception of Oni, just about every Rockstar Games title I own has this option. Namco seems to be pretty good in this regards too. Tekken 5 looks really good in both widescreen and progressive scan off my Component Video to HDMI adapter (mind you I only have this game because of Starblade which is an unlockable and that looks great too). Of course, your milage may vary with other titles and companies.

Once the hackers and modders get their hands on it and figure out ways to put additional titles on it then most of these problems will solve themselves.

The cables are practically collector's items now which is probably one of the reasons for the high cost. Luckily I managed to get two of them just before they stopped making them (one RGB modded and one unmodded) and the prices got out of hand. If you absolutely need Component Video from a GC it'd be cheaper to get one of the aforementioned HDMI adapters then connect it to a HDMI to Component Video adapter.

The video pretty much confirmed my suspicions, especially with the annoying screen stretching, so I'll take a pass on this. The one thing that annoys me about the Pound devices is that it requires power from the USB port. The AV port has its own +5VDC line so a USB plug would be unnecessary unless there is an amperage difference and the USB port provides more amps than the AV port.

I'm kind of leery of these cheap converter boxes. However, if it doesn't screen stretch 4:3, does a good job with 240p, switches between 240p to 480i without issues (there are certain games that use both modes), and handles 480p without problems then I'm sold. Considering the fact that this is intended for both PS1 and PS2 it has to be using RGB Analog as a base which is a very good thing, especially since I hacked a PlayStation AV plug into my Jaguar years ago meaning I can use this there as well without any further adaptive plugs or modifications.

This is a bit of a surprise as I did not see this coming. However, I am going to wait and see how easy it is to install your own collection to this thing before going after this myself. Another question is does this mean that they will try to do this for the PS2 at some point? That would be a Day One buy for me if that happens.

Until somebody decides to make the Kaeliko Kaemeleon.....

PAX South panel window is now open and I will be talking to Matt before submission.

If you can track one down I recommend the Monster Cable set. They are clearly the better built of all of the Nintendo S-Video cables and gives the best picture.

Wouldn't it be better to offer an Atari 2600 themed case for the Raspberry Pi so you can create your own VCS using Stella? Probably better than what these guys are trying to do.

I went to the Game Over Classic Gaming Expo in Austin today and was surprised to find that eon, one of the companies making GC HDMI adapters, there with a booth and sponsoring gaming contests. They had plenty of their new adapter and I badly wanted one. However, I had to pass because I don't play with my GC enough to justify paying $120 for it at this time (however, it is more expensive elsewhere). Still, I had a chance to see it in action and I am impressed with it.

Original Tempest arcade game used an optical encoder - no detents.

Sega Saturn Composite cable?

What does the coil in the Jag do anyway other than make noise that is?

Guess that answers my question. So, barring finding the right caps, what would be the best material to put on a coil to stop or greatly reduce noise without reducing its functionality? I've heard glue or hot glue but maybe there might be other things to use.

Another angle to this is to find a coil that doesn't make noise regardless of caps but I don't know if such a thing exists.

I have a bit of the hissing noise with mine as well. Is it possible to note the specific capacitor that kills the noise so that others can perform this mod for their units? Apparently, according to Crossbow, it may be a Panasonic. Also, is it possible to find out what that cap is made from? Is it a metal film type for example - even if you have several caps that all look the same they may be made of different materials and that may be the key to solve the noise problem. If we know what this Panasonic cap is made out of then you can go get that specific type of cap regardless of manufacturer - just in case Panasonic doesn't make this type of cap anymore.

Depending on the emulation quality and your modding skills why not take the unit apart and place the board inside the joystick? An interesting thought.

If you plan to do any softmodding, and I recommend it to get the most out of the PSP, you definitely should get a Micro SD card and an adapter.

Have you considered getting a rubber duck? From what I read programmers, when they get stuck on something, talk to the duck explaining the situation and somehow they come up with the solution while doing so. Won't hurt to try.

For me the PSP-3000 is the better unit. I had a PSP-1000 to start but I broke the case and the analog nub would no longer work due to very bad design. The good news is that you can use the larger 1000 battery unit with the 3000 but you will need a different battery lid to accommodate (using the larger battery means more battery life). Got a MicroSD to Memory Stick Duo adapter and a 32GB card plus the PRO 660 softmod. Very easy to do and I have some emulators plus my entire PSP collection on it. Really, really nice handheld. Would like to do the same to the Vita but I don't know if they managed to totally jailbreak that thing to hell yet.

I still have the original 45 single.

You don't have to take out the card - you can simply hook up the PSP to a computer with the USB plug on the top and access the card that way. I just may get a 64GB card and try to use it. If it don't work I can use it for something else.