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redhawk668

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Everything posted by redhawk668

  1. Yeah, sometimes life get's in the way. The one offered on eBay looks like it's based on my Rev. C design. It seems they changed a few things, rerouted some traces, but the basic design is still the same. I recall I've tested my Rev. C design and it didn't work. But, I do recall I've corrected that error in the design. So, I've checked my PCB design today and I've noticed the error has indeed been corrected. I've ordered some PCB's based on this corrected design and will build one and test it. If it works, I'll put it on sale on my Tindie webstore. It will be fully assembled PCB.
  2. Due to personal circumstances I haven’t been able to spend time on this. Things are looking better now, so I’ll be back on this. I didn’t forget about it.
  3. All of the SMD components are soldered on top of the little board, with the 74LS on top of the PC, you can stick it in and solder it to the PCB. My first draft was a little PCB that was piggybacked on top of the IC. That means you have to bend the needed pins upwards with all risks of breaking them. The only drawback of Rev. A is, you need a really thin PCB, like 0.6 mm to have the pins sticking out far enough. My new Rev. C is a 2 layer PCB with a TSSOP-14 IC + resistors on top and the capicators on the bottom. As this uses header pins to insert it in the socket, the PCB can be normal thickness. It also fits within the DIP-14 footprint.
  4. Yeah, cosmetic issues. But, it looks better when corrected.
  5. Thanks, I've corrected the issues. Will order some of these for testing.
  6. Ok, this is the Rev. C. I've managed to fit everything within the DIP-14 footprint. IC + resistors on top and capacitors on the bottom. Will order some of these soon and test them.
  7. I think there is a way to keep the DIP footprint, put some of the components on the bottom (second layer) of the PCB. So, IC on top with the resistors and the capacitors on the bottom. I'm using machine header pins, so there is clearance between the socket and the PCB. Then, it all should fit within the DIP footprint. That'll be Rev. C.
  8. Well, the passive components are 0603 footprint. That is still solderable by hand, I’ve tried to fit it all within the DIP footprint, but that means I have to switch to smaller footprints for the passives, it also needs space for the routing of the tracks. So, this design is the best compromise IMHO. This can still be soldered by hand, so kits could be possible too.
  9. Ok, Rev. B of the Delay Line. Now fully SMD. Can be made with standard PCB thickness of 1.6mm, so cheaper to manufacture and could be made with a pick and place machine. The IC is in TSSOP-14 package, just fits between a DIP footprint rotated 90 degrees. Board is routed. Now, I need to order some of them for testing. When succesful I can put them on sale at my Tindie store.
  10. This is the address of my store: https://www.tindie.com/stores/redhawk6682020/ Keep an eye on it, will be available soon. The PCB that will go on sale will be ENIG finish and fully SMD. Rev. A design works, but 0.6mm PCB's are a bit pricey, the Rev. B will be fully SMD and will go on sale in my Tindie store soon.
  11. I've made a bit of a rework of the little board and I had some PCB's made. It works perfectly and fits nicely in a 600XL. Should also fit in an 800XL without problems. I've managed to put everything on top of the PCB, so no bending of pins necessary. It does require good soldering skills, because of the SMD stuff, but the IC is easy to solder. When assembled it's basically a plug 'n play solution. I will put this soon on my Tindie store for sale if people are interested.
  12. For anyone who is interested: https://github.com/redhawk668/Atari-CO60472-Delay-Line-Replacement The link to my github.
  13. I will share the designs of this little PCB on my github.
  14. The little PCB I made from the Polish schematics works! I love it, from totally dead with a black screen back to working order. Great!
  15. Ok, I took the Polish schematics and used it as a template to create a little PCB out of it. PCB's are being made at this moment and I hope to test those ASAP. If they work I'll release them on my Github. I might even sell a few of them from my Tindie store.
  16. Keep me posted, I still have some PCB’s left. I also designed a PCB for the Polish one, I only have to sent it JLCPCB to have some made. I can share the designs here too.
  17. I've tried ChildofCv's proposal, unfortunately it didn't work in my 600XL. Still a black screen. So, back to the drawing board. I will test that Polish one.
  18. I acquired a dead 600XL, gives black screen at bootup. Tested the custom chips in my working 600XL and they are functional, CPU tested out fine too, so I've narrowed it down to a broken delay line chip. So, I've been reading through this thread and decided to give ChildofCv's proposal a test, I've sent the designs to JLCPCB and letting some PCB's made. I will built one up and test it in the broken 600XL. I will share my results if it works!
  19. Yes, I am sure of that. It says 800XLF Rev. R3 on the underside of the PCB, it has a modulator and it’s a European machine so that means PAL version. It has a Freddie chip, because the lay-out is completely different and it has a chip with the markings CO61618 on it and the GTIA has moved upwards, so yeah pretty sure of that . Uploading a picture means I have to disassemble it again..., so will take some time.
  20. I've completed an s-video cable for use on my 800XL and connected it, to my surprise the machine had a color display instead of the black/white I expected, so I opened it up. It's an 800XLF Rev. R3 from late '84 so I guess one out of the last production run of the 800XL before the XE series came out. The machine I have is a PAL system and is in good condition. Case has yellowed a little bit, but the PCB looked absolutely mint. This 800XLF will not receive any mods, and I'll preserve it.
  21. Nice to see those TESLA ic's in a 130XE, those mT RAM's are really pieces of crap, aren't they? Commodore used them also in the C64 (yep, Tramiel again), and in the C64 I was working on all of the RAM had to be replaced. I also have a 130XE, also with those mT RAM's in it, they are still working! Well, I did desolder the second bank of RAM and replaced them with 41256 RAM's (which I desoldered out of a really dead Atari 1040 STf) and performed a 320KB hack with 74LS158 multiplexer chip. I have dark green XE board and I used a solder sucker to suck out the solder. I managed to remove the IC's fully intact and without damaging traces, etc. This machine works beautifully now and has been modded with a Sophia RGB too.
  22. Another option is to create empty ATR disk images, copy them to the SD card. Connect the 1050 drive to the 800XL and daisychain the SIO2SD behind the 1050. Mount the empty ATR image on D2: In this case the 1050 is D1:, the SIO2SD is D2:. This should make it possible to copy a disk to an ATR. With a stock 1050 only single (90 KB) density and medium (127 KB) density is possible. With an XF551 double density disks should be possible. But, as people have mentioned here, downloading cracked versions of the games would be much easier. As you have an SIO2SD, just create a directory with the name Atari on your SD card and copy the ATR files in that directory. Then you should be able to mount those ATR files on your SIO2SD and load them at turbo speed.
  23. I fitted my Sophia RGB also in a 600XL. I had the same problem with the small opamp chip, I removed the socket and soldered the chip straight to the PCB. It now fits perfectly in the GTIA socket. I am now in the proces of fitting a second one in an 130XE. To fit it in this machine, I desoldered the Antic socket, soldered the chip straight to the PCB, desoldered GTIA and installed a socket. I attached a second socket on the Sophia RGB board and inserted that into the GTIA socket. Fits perfectly and enough clearance between the board and the Antic chip. RF shielding does not fit anymore.... Now, remove the modulator to make room for the d-sub connector.
  24. Just tried my 600 XL on a SCART to HDMI adapter, the picture quality is absolutely gorgeous!
  25. I have a PAL 600XL, which has a monitor port. Only composite, though. It is the same 5 pin DIN connector, but only wired for composite and audio.
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