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battleman13

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About battleman13

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  1. False alarm I guess, I just pulled out my other VA4 (the one from the ebay lot of two broken consoles) and tried to see if I could get it to work with the 32X. At first, no it wouldn't. Then I pulled it out and popped in the Sonic 2 cart and that wasn't working either.... so I reseated it a few times and nothing, reseated it a final time and it started working. I then put the 32X back in and put Sonic 2 in it, and it worked. I would normally guess it's cause the 32X was dirty causing it not to boot some times, but that wouldn't explain why the full board I got with the 32X and Sega CD worked perfectly with the 32X every time and I really haven't even cleaned it yet. I bet I just didn't have it seated well in the VA4's or perhaps their cart slots are a bit looser than the full board I had good success with?
  2. I actually wound up getting a grand total of 5 Sega Genesis units since last summer. Picked up a Model 1 VA6 from ebay for either $25 or $30 sold as not working. It worked, the RF switch sent with it was junk. I ordered a composite adapter off the net for like $15 (got one with the 3.5mm stereo adapter to hook into the front) and it works like a treat. Then I picked up a model 2 unit from a local game store, not knowing really the difference or what I got at the time just jacked up because I got a sega genesis with a controller, power adapter, copy of sonic 2 and copy of mortal kombat 2 for a total of like $25 and tax (it was a local retro store special). Turns out it's a VA4 Model 2 and puts out some really nice composite video. Then I decided to just scour ebay on a whim a month later and found a listing for two Model 2 genesis units and in with them was a full board unit and ANOTHER VA4! I paid $20 for the pair, advertised as not working. Both needed cleaned up, DC jacks re soldered and controller ports re soldered. After that they work like champs. (I fully stripped, cleaned including cart slots, and re soldered DC jacks and controller ports on ALL of my model 2 units) Finally I just bought about a month ago a Sega Genesis Model 2, Sega 32X and Sega CD Model 2 combo off of ebay for $113 and some change (and I think like $10 or $15 shipping). The Model 2 is a full board and works (haven't given it the regular treatment the others got yet though), the 32X works (had to order a video cable to go between genesis and 32X) and the Sega CD is somewhat working but I think the laser is shot. Basically $200 invested into 5 Genesis units (including two VA4 model 2's) a 32X and a Sega CD! Not too shabby. I was also able to get an original mega everdrive v1 from ebay for $70 which I though was pretty good. Not quite as good as the X7 but good enough for my needs. I ordered some reset switches from crossbow as 4 of the 5 model 2 units I have are in need of a new reset switch, they don't work at all. Haven't got around to that yet. Now on to the point of all this... I'd like to sell off the two full board model 2 units BUT my main VA4 unit seems to not work with the 32X? The carts just never boot, everdrive or the sonic 2 cart. Works like a charm with a full board hooked to it. Does the VA4 unit have issues with the 32X that any of you have noticed?
  3. I think you are going to start seeing more and more people look to emulation so long as there are proper options available that do not compromise too much. I had a large portion of the available game consoles since the late 80's early 90's and currently do not have many of them any more. I still have several systems, including a new found interest in obtaining Lynx stuff (never owned growing up, but my grandfather had a decent collection). As prices go up and up, more and more people will shy away. Eventually the prices will have to come back down although I guess that day will only come when the buying slows way down and people either get tired of having the money tied up or get sick of looking at the stuff waiting for someone to buy it. That leaves really only the true hard core collectors and advocates for the systems... when that happens the market will saturate a bit and prices will come down. I currently own very few "retro" systems, save my most favorite ones from my child hood. I do not plan to invest in most of them at the current and growing prices. I might invest in them if prices come back down. The two noted additions for me are several Atari Lynx and Sega Genesis consoles (as well as a SNES classic... but that doesn't really count).
  4. I'd like to be added to the list for a flash cart as well! I'd like an uncased one with the case loose! Thanks! EDIT: How hard are the cases to attach? Do you have to glue them or can you just easily snap it on and off? I might change my order to a cased version.... my only lynx 1 unit currently does not work....
  5. Maybe the VA4 Game Gear will be supported! But, probably not.... oh well, a man can dream! @McWill what do you think the retail price will be on the GBC kit? Similar to the Lynx and GG kits?
  6. The backlight itself could be failing. A bit of a bummer, but it does make your 2110 unit a great candidate for a McWill install!
  7. Is it a model 2110K? Those are regarded as lost causes these days. Sad, as mine from my own childhood is a VA4 (2110K) as well. Really enjoyed that unit.
  8. Would love to see the Game Gear VA4 (Majesco) supported. A few months ago I pulled my childhood game gear out of the attic in my parents house. Fired it up to a burning smell.... decided it was probably bad caps. So I decided to get a cap kit (which sat here a good 2 or 3 months) and just a few days ago took a crack at changing them out. Wasn't too bad of a job. I have a decent solder station, and decent soldering skills. I took my time, and tried to do a good clean job. After about an hours worth of effort (spread out across 3 hours as I took some breaks) I had it all recapped and ready for testing. On my VA4, cap C58 (which I think is cap C70 on VA0/VA1) is a high voltage ceramic cap in the backlight circuit.. she was smoking and arcing on one of the legs. So that was the cause of my original fault I believe. The unit does play, but it plays blind... no backlight, nothing on the LCD. But it does respond to button presses and I can hear the sound nice and clear.... Looks like a perfect candidate for a McWill mod and a good chance to put my soldering skills to the test! Maybe also another reason to buy this really awesome USB microscope. it's cheap, works well... and it's a wayyyy better magnifier than microscope. I could just as easy get another game gear cheap, recap it and then McWill it.... and might do that. But there is something about keeping that old game gear from my child hood working!
  9. Thinking of pulling the two older non working lynx units out and trying to get one or both of them going again.... So I do have the one lynx model 2 (that I got a pair of on ebay for $50) working fine. I almost want to convert it back to using batteries, remove that USB power mod, and fix the zenner and power jack to restore it to original condition. I'm thinking perhaps the Lynx 1 may have issues with either the Mikey / Suzy / or RAM chips.... is there a good guide out there for testing these chips with a scope? Is it possible to use those three chips from the Lynx 2 on the Lynx 1 board? From what I remember, I think the non working lynx 2 has a good board but bad LCD. I don't want to take apart my working lynx 2 again more than necessary as the end on those flex circuits flake off easy and I don't want to have to keep trimming it... but if the board on the non working lynx 2 is good then I just might be able to get another screen for it (maybe even McWill!) or salvage those chips to fix the lynx 1. I guess I'm wanting to confirm that the lynx 1 has damage to any of it's three most critical chips first, if there is good info out there on that. I did a bit of google searching, but nothing really came up other than it might be possible to buy the mikey / suzy chips from best electronics. Perhaps another option if I can confirm what ales the non working lnyx 1.
  10. What were you using before? As I don't solder all that much (used to some arcade repair work, so maybe recapping a monitor and some other odds and ends work) I didn't invest in an expensive setup but I did find it worthwhile to pick up a hakko 936 clone soldering station on ebay. I got the Yihua 936 station for under $30 shipped and then picked up a set of like 7 or so different hakko tips that fit my cheap cloner station. It works really well, the key being that I don't use it a lot and often and that I got the good hakko tips for the iron. The tips are the biggest thing, and the main benefit of the station is being able to finely tune the heat of your iron. Some work requires heat to be dialed back to be just hot enough, and you have to be careful not to heat any longer than necessary. If your not using a station that offers the ability to control the temp, I'd recommend that. If you solder a lot, you might benefit from just buying a hakko station. I have maybe 15-20 hours of use on mine over the last 5 years and in that time the iron crapped out on me once. For $7 I was back and soldering again with a new replacement iron. I have some upcomming projects (sega game gear recap, soldering work on a genesis, perhaps a PS2 modchip) but it's all pretty light use for the iron. Having a tip that is the right size (not too small or too big) and also the right shape for the work you are doing is key to good results and things going much easier for you.
  11. How exactly do I check the XTAL? I have a scope (never used before, but willing to try!) and from looking over the Lynx 2 schematic it seems there is mention of XTAL on the U2 chip? XTALI and XTALO. Is that right or no... Just curious where to probe and what to look for. Not totally lost on this stuff, just not quite sure about how to check this.
  12. Old topic I know, but I've made a bit of progress. I thought that at least the one "working" lynx 2 had a bad flex circuit. After tinkering some more I got it working perfectly. I ended up cutting about 1/8th of an inch off of the top of the flex circuit ribbon as most of that "material" was scratched off. Well now the buttons all work wonderfully, the LED is bright and strong and the lynx 2 plays great! The other unit has a good flex circuit, good screen, but an apparently dead motherboard. I had a few USB cables that were bought to power a cell phone charger, the ends were super cheap so I cut them off and soldered the positive and negative wires directly to the solder blobs for the power solder pads by the battery holder. Makes the lynx 2 a little less portable, but I don't care... It's a fairly long cord and I don't plan to play these "on the go". So anyway, one unit that I got off eBay is working great and the other appears to be a dead board. I soldered its own usb wire directly to the solder pads for power and soldered a jumper wire from battery minus to head phone middle pin. Nothing on the screen, no sound. I did swap the other motherboard into this housing to confirm the screen was working and it is. Anyone have any idea about what could be causing the "dead" board to be lifeless? SirLynxAlot suggested bad caps, any ideas or should I just replace them all? Are there "commonly bad caps"? Pumped to have at least one "working" unit! I'm quite happy having the hard wired direct 5V supply. I used a little extension cord so that I can unplug to change games easily. Quite happy to be enjoying some of these classics I remember playing so many many years ago as a very young boy. Just a bit sad I couldn't get any life out of the original lynx 1.... motherboard seems dead. Probably from over volting. Maybe I can find a cheap parts unit with a good board.
  13. Hello, I have two Lynx 2 systems for sale. Neither are in perfect working order. 1st one Good motherboard, assumed possibly bad flex circuit. I assume that since when the unit is fully assembled the down or left buttons do not work. At first it was just down... then down worked and left wouldn't... after taking it apart, reseating / checking a third time... now down and left do not work. Screen works. Headphone ground is jumped to battery minus. Battery holder is desoldered from the power pads on the board but is included if you wanted to put it back on. I did this so I could power the lynx directly with 5V from a USB wall charger. 2nd one Dead motherboard. Can't comment on status of flex cable. Screen worked in the lynx above. Screen covering is scratched. Rubber grips and battery cover is missing. So basically, for sure, your getting one good motherboard and two working screens. Two housings that can be used for "parts". The dead lynx board, at least, should have a working cartridge slot and other parts that can be used as a donor board for other components I'm sure. Maybe up to two working flex cables... maybe I'm just not putting it back together right or maybe they are faulty. I'm not sure. I paid $50 plus shipping for these, and since I wasn't able (maybe just my lack of experience with these things) to get one running perfectly I'd just like to offload them. I'd like to get the $50 plus shipping for these items. Thanks
  14. @sirlynxalot Yeah, I might look into that. I was interested in building a raspberry pie retro / htpc "machine". I dunno that I want to put it into a lynx but you never know! @Karri I was for sure thinking about offering up any "salvage" to the users here first. So If I do decide to get rid of anything, I'll be sure to PM you with the information! I might tinker with them a bit more tonight just to confirm the one is "dead". I might just wire a connection between headphone ground and battery minus on the working lynx, and hook a USB cable directly up to the solder pads for the battery. This will allow me to plug it in and play it. It would could still even be portable if I found a battery bank that put out 5V 1 A. I'm fine being plugged in either way. It will just be cool to start enjoying the old games again
  15. Hey sirlynxalot Thank you for your input. I have tried the headphone jump trick... the interesting thing is that if I short to ground on the headphone jack, it doesn't "power up" but if I short to the middle pin below (again supplying exactly 5V) the screen lights up but nothing happens... no sound and no video. I bought two "broken" Lynx 2 units on eBay. One has signs of life, pumping 5V into the battery terminals and doing the headphone jump has both video and sound playing... although the power LED seemed to be flashing? The other doesn't seem to be working at all.... same test (with multiple games, and even no game) shows just a plain black screen with the backlight. I'm curious to try pumping 5V directly into the power cap but I don't think that will help. I think it's a dead board. The LCD in this unit was supposedly known to be faulty BUT there should still be sound. The negative wire to the speaker was broken off, but I put in a pair of earbuds and still didn't hear anything. I may swap motherboards and see if it makes any difference since I know I have a functioning pair of motherboard / LCD. Not sure what to do with the dead Lynx 1 or 2 systems.
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