eizner23

Thank you I bought a few from mouser at premium cost!

The power supply I was using is the Retro2600, a super light, switching PS with 9V output at 500mA. As alternative I used my bench PS set to 14VDC and the wavy vertical scroll issue went away. I read original atari PS puts out 14v. Is there a better replacement solution? Maybe I can make my own using old laptop supply for now. Curious what the out current was with original. The only issue remaining is the gfx terribly blurring to the right. Confirmed 5.08v getting to the composite board.

I tried the av mod from the future was 8 bit site. It's circuit is little different, the circuit I was using had no resistors on emitter. I gave it a shot and couldn't get any video, I tried two different boards! Old one still worked. More digging I found a circuit using two transistors, the author described the same issues I had with the one transistor circuit. post 13 here Doubled checked work and tossed it in. Identical results to my first board, and the graphics became more blurry on the right edges of graphics. The wavy band wasnt as prevelant but still there. I removed more parts from the old RF, I x'ed parts I took out below. Put in new 2200uf cap. Reseated 2 of 3 chips, not the one under cartridge port yet. Wrapped the output wires once in a ferrite core. Nothing changed. Ha! I'm going to probe around with my scope, check parts upstream, see if I'm getting 5v to the new board. My testing of new board was done without the shield over the chips.

Thank you gentleman the ground issues makes sense. I read the first link in post #3 and that seems to be a better solution, and his initial issues match my issues. I'm going to redo my work and use the ground plane as advised. I'll let you know if the results are work out.

I used this 5v 1.5a 7805 regulator on left and measure constant 5.09 under load. I captured an image of the issue Maybe try a new 2200uf filter cap? There is a green mylar near it too.

I have LM340T 7805 on hand, 5v 1.5a output, I'll give that a shot. ...And it didnt help, made the banding a little more prevelant. It's like two wavy RGB patterns slowly moving up vertically. Tried giggling and touching the new wires that were introduced. Reflowing the filter cap. Didnt notice a difference.

Another note I have an led hooked up to the regulator and that doesnt even light up during the cold start issue. I'll try to squirt with freeze spray when it does work, maybe will prove faulty regulator.

Hi, the 2600 needs a little work still. Sometimes it doesnt turn on after a cold start then it comes on. Power switch was rebuilt and seems fine. Perhaps the voltage reg is not up to task. Still has original nichicon vx 2200uf filter cap, rest are new. I plan on replacing the reg today if I got one and the cap soon. No other interference I can think of and I yes I used that indestructibles circuit. Power source is new, use it on other 2600s. Thank you for the info!

Slight vertical banding still present after putting shields back on. Any pros here to assist?

Just put together my own AV composite mod using 2N3904, 2.2/3.3k 1% metal film resistors, 22g solid core wire. I removed the RF box, one transistor and one resistor. The transistor I used is Motorola with hfe of 350. I havnt put the two shields back on, my initial test was good, the colors pop more and the sound is more prevalent. I am getting a slight band rolling vertically on the screen, from bottom to top. I couldnt capture an image of it on my camera it was so slight. Will this interference go away once i reassemble the 2600 [4 switcher] and its shields, or is from the wires being twisted? Also, should I omit the red tuning capacitor? Any opinions and other recommendations are welcome, and thanks. Also curious on a source for cheap Nichicon 2200uf 35v axial for filter cap, best I could find was $3.50 a pop on mouser for Illinois Capacitor brand. Seems impossible to use a radial in this spot due to clearance from top case.

4 point replacement pcb domes worked marvelously.

Perfect, just purchased them, thank you kind sir. His drop in PCBs are very tempting, big props for rolling them out.

Guys, any source for replacement metal contact disks for joystick controllers, or diy workarounds? I would like to purchase 20+ for present and future repairs. I find nothing on 3bay.

The motherlode, and has download all option! This should keep me busy for the remainer of my life. Much appreciated sir.

Thank you kind sir!

Thanks for the feedback. I did recently install the 48k/52k upgrade board so ram should be all good? BruceLee.atr wouldn't play just random chars all over the screen. Some of the preloaded games I get splash screen with music, then nothing. DonkeyKongJr.xex and MoonPatrol.xex played fined.

Got the SDrive from brewing academy hooked up, neat gadget. I find my 400 choking on many .xex titles, those games developed using other languages from what I understand? .xex games sure do look and sound great! Does the 800 have the 64kb required to play some titles? Where can I find Caverns of Kafkha and Shamus? Is there a repository of downloadable home brew games anywhere?

thanks. noob question... will all the game on that site work on the 400? Will they also work on the 2600?

I have the 48/51 ram card installed and a S-Drive on the way for my 400, trying to compile a collection of games on limited satellite bandwidth. Does anyone have any bookmarked zip files to share of homebrews or favorite games? Having troubles wading thru all the threads on slow internet. I already went thru the top 100 here and grabbed what i wanted http://www.atarimania.com/top-atari-game-atari-400-800-xl-xe-_G_8_V.html Any links would be appreciated. I like karate games, I just downloaded Bruce Lee... Driving, simulator, rare, classic games... no more than a few hundred MB.

I have a tiger beavis and butthead. Astonished its fetching thousands $ NIB, hundreds $ used.

Wondering how these devices are fairing after a many decades. Vintage cassette decks of any kind can be terribly difficult to refurbish or to restore to proper functionality. Aside from belts, the rubber rollers can become hard and not able to grip. If left in Play mode for many years, the rubber rollers can become permanently indented/out of round. Capstan motors can seize up, bearings can go bad. The heads can become worn or out-of-alignment. Grease, if used, can become hard. Wow and flutter (minor increase/decrease in playback speed) can become a problem for the Atari while translating the analog signals stored on cassette if any the above elements are needing attention.

Ive wondered why the ZIF pins are not gold plated

52K me to the US please.

For rewind issue check the rubber idler wheels for roundness and condition. If not round the rubber may have an indent from sitting so long. If they are shiny you can try scuffing them with scotch pad so they can grip. If dry rubber needs to be replaced. What type of tape did you record the basic program to? Recommend a new type I cassette like TDK. For the heads rub your finger nail across the head. If there is a groove that maybe an issue, worn head. Post a picture of the head if you can. Does the music play consistantly at the same speed? I can't recall if any of the parts have lubricates applied, that can dry up over time and get hard.

Burned many hours in jr. high playing this game in the lab without teacher knowing. Just played it the other day on the IBM Apriva. Fantastic work so far hope you can pull it off.