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Posts posted by [email protected]

  6. Posted

    See the auction link below for a badge that is made of vinyl.  This fits way better than the plastic badge that looks like brushed aluminum (the badge from mateoproceo is too thick and it doesn't look very good when installed).

     

    https://allegro.pl/oferta/sticker-znaczek-atari-800-xe-65-xe-130-xe-7965983438

    He also sells on facebook and ships worldwide.

     

     

    Another option is to strip the faded paint from the original Atari badge, to reveal the aluminum finish underneath.  I love the way it looks (picture of my 130xe is attached).

     

    IMG_1820.jpg

    IMG_1819.jpg

    • Like 1

  8. Posted

    The layer of paint on the original badge can be stripped to reveal nice aluminum finish. 

     

    You have to have some patience removing the badge from the 130xe, applying some heat from hairdryer to remove the badge without bending it works well.

  11. Posted

    They just fixed the interleave (gave me a new firmware in the chat I started)

    I tried it this morning and now the ATR images are loading quickly. Really a nice solution for failing XF551 drives. I will do more testing over the weekend.

    • Like 3

  12. Posted

    That's a neat proof of concept to see!

     

    Sounds like the gotek is either emulating a sector interleave of 1, or an RPM of 300 instead of 288 causing it to always 'miss' the next sector, and having to wait a full virtual 'revolution' of the disk for the next sector.

     

    Could be interesting to run an RPM test utility.

     

    Does the gotek document or allow configurability of the emulated sector interleave?

     

     

    Gotek allows different configuration options via FF.cfg file, but there are no examples on how to configure it for 8bit Ataris.

    I posted the same question on https://github.com/keirf/FlashFloppy/issues/223

    Hopefully will get somewhere.

     

    I wanted to get a 5.25 drive going, but didn't want to spend over $60 on a new drive mech, not knowing if the XF551 board is working.. At least now I know that the board is fine and my drive drive is dead (not the other way around).

     

    However, if this gotek works with XF551 board, my next step is to get a OLED screen and a 3.5-5.25 bracket for the Gotek, so it fits nicely in the XF551 enclosure.

  13. Posted

    I installed the Gotek in the XF551 enclosure. It works, but it is about 50% slower than SIO2SD. This is using FlashFloppy v 2.04 (ATR support is in experimental stages).

    Video of it loading Donkey Kong is linked below (the data-load bits are slow, if you turn up the volume you'll see what I mean).

     

    Also, I wonder if it's possible to power this Gotek and the XF551 board from the SIO bus, skipping the power supply?

     

  14. Posted

    I received my 2nd XF551 today, and it has exactly the same problem as the first one that I bought. It will not format to 360K, but seems to work fine for any format that a 1050 can do. This makes me wonder if it is something I am doing wrong, but it is more likely that I just have bad luck, since the Teac mechanism fixed the problem in the 1st one. It is interesting that someone put screws on the SIO connectors of this drive to keep them from moving around and breaking the solder joints.

     

    Anyway, more related to this topic, the 2nd drive has different power and data cables, and I don't think this data cable would be long enough for the Teac drive, so you may want to watch out for that.

    I looked around ebay, and these 5.25 360K drives are expensive. So I decided to play around with Gotek drive in a XF551 enclosure.

     

    I've read that the latest FlashFloppy firmware supports ATR images, so I will give that a try, once my Gotek arrives from China.

    The floppy cable will have to be replaced. I don't know yet what's simpler - crimp a new 3.5 inch floppy cable to the existing connector on the XF551 board, or solder in a new 34 pin header to this board.

     

    If it works, I will probably buy a 3.5 to 5.25 faceplate, so the 3.5 inch Gotek fits nicely within the XF551 enclosure.

    • Like 1

  15. Posted

    As suggested, make sure you re-flow the solder points on the SIO connectors. I found it best to add some new solder to each point. It is a common problem with these drives, and it only takes a few minutes to take care of. Hope it works out!

     

    I recently restored an XF551 that would not format to 360K by replacing the Mitsumi mechanism with a Teac FD-55BR. The face was a perfect match and the drive is very quiet.

     

    IMG_0265 (1).jpg

    Did you run into any problems installing the Teac drive. Were the cables long enough? About other problems to be aware of? Thanks for this idea.

  16. Posted

    Thanks for all the replies - it turns out my drive does not spin up at all. The head moves, but the drive mech appears dead.

     

    As suggested, make sure you re-flow the solder points on the SIO connectors. I found it best to add some new solder to each point. It is a common problem with these drives, and it only takes a few minutes to take care of. Hope it works out!

     

    I recently restored an XF551 that would not format to 360K by replacing the Mitsumi mechanism with a Teac FD-55BR. The face was a perfect match and the drive is very quiet.

     

    attachicon.gifIMG_0265 (1).jpg

    That looks so cool.

  17. Posted

    that's what is suppose to happen.... it should home to zero on power up...

    OK thanks. I did do a quick test last night with a DOS 2.5 written by a 1050 drive, but I was getting the "Boot Error". I'll try additional disks tonight, when I get home.

  18. Posted

    I always wanted to get xf551; recently found one in nice condition, but it doesnt work

     

    Upon power up, the head moves slightly and retracts back.

    When I push the head with my fingers, it moves back to track 0 when powering up.

     

    The linked video that I recorded can probably explain better than I can

     

    Any ideas what could be wrong?

     

  22. Posted

    You just want me to de-solder the switch? Is the keycap going to stay with the switch. It looks like there is some kind of attachment on the key.

     

    Bob

     

    Hello Bob, I did de-solder my defective switch, it took me less than 5 minutes (I"m not even skilled at soldering). If you want to sell me a switch you de-solder or part of a keyboard, I'd be willing to pay to save my keyboard. I'm attaching a picture of the switch after it has been de-soldered. Please let me know if you have 1 or a couple for sale.

     

    Thanks, Andrew

    post-52816-0-47864800-1537495073_thumb.jpg

  23. Posted · Edited by [email protected]

    I have all these keys from a spare keyboard. I've been selling them for next to nothing via a Facebook page, just don't want to throw them away. Return key has a pole in the middle (I'm pretty sure this fits your keyboard). I'll send all 5 keys you need for $10 assuming they they all weigh less than 16 oz (1st class limit).

    post-52816-0-61679400-1537453550_thumb.jpg

    post-52816-0-59270000-1537453556_thumb.jpg

    • Like 1

  24. Posted

    Hi!

     

     

    I also have an Atari 800XL with ALPS switches, like those: https://deskthority.net/wiki/Alps_SKFL_series

     

    Sadly, I have two switches that don't make contact all the time and one switch (at the letter "L") that sometimes makes contact when not actually pressed, filling the screen with "LLLLL..."

     

    I have never seen those on sale, perhaps someone knows a cheap switch that could be adapted to replace the failing ones.

    That's a good find. I also wonder if we could somehow use switches like in this ebay listing?

     

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-matias-clicky-keyboard-switches-direct-replacement-for-Alps-white-clicky-/192653638524

  25. Posted

    I thought the Key-cap can be pulled-up? There is a metallic "guide" on the Shift key that's not present on most of the other keys.

    I think the switches are the same for all keys.

    I haven't de-soldered any of the keys on this keyboard, so I'm not sure how big of a deal it is to remove just the switch?

     

    They key-cap will not stay with the switch, if you pull it up and wiggle the little metal out.

     

     

    You just want me to de-solder the switch? Is the keycap going to stay with the switch. It looks like there is some kind of attachment on the key.

     

    Bob

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