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I thought the Key-cap can be pulled-up? There is a metallic "guide" on the Shift key that's not present on most of the other keys. I think the switches are the same for all keys. I haven't de-soldered any of the keys on this keyboard, so I'm not sure how big of a deal it is to remove just the switch? They key-cap will not stay with the switch, if you pull it up and wiggle the little metal out.

Picture is attached, thank you

I've been on a lookout for Atari 800xl with an Alps keyboard. Finally found one (Untested). Computer works, but the switch under the Shift Key is cracked and it sticks when pressed. Does anyone sell these switches? I have a lot of loose keys for Atari 800 that I can provide in exchange or I can purchase with paypal. Thanks

sorry, wrong forum

I've been on a lookout for Atari 800xl with an Alps keyboard. Finally found one (Untested). Computer works, but the switch under the Shift Key is cracked and it sticks when pressed. Does anyone sell these switches? I have a lot of loose keys for Atari 800 that I can provide in exchange or I can purchase with paypal. Thanks

I'm interested in the keyboard only. Do you have all the key caps? Are any of the posts damaged? How much for keyboard+shipping to Illinois (60192)?

Thanks Thanks. Do you typically use a "chip puller" tool to reseat chips?

I just bought a 520st (one of the models with Video Modulator). I hooked it up to a TV via RF cable and got a screen that looks like the attached image I also hooked up pin 2 and 13 via an RCA and got a similar image. What are the chances that the un-modulated output will work (to a VGA monitor that can support 15khz). I do have a Dell 2001fp that should work, I would just need to invest about $40 in a cable. Any ideas what might be wrong with my 520st?

The GTIA chips is not the issue - got a replacement one and the 130xe has the same behavior. I'll look over the other suggestions this weekend. I might just put it on ebay - too bad as the case and keyboard is pristine...

Thanks for all the replies. I ordered a GTIA chip from eBay, hopefully this will be the culprit. If it was RAM - wouldn't the computer go to self-test (RAM test)? I can actually get to the READY prompt / Basic - and start typing - video is distorted (as shown in my first picture). I did reseat the MMU and GTIA - no change in behavior.

This machine would be pristine - if it worked. But GTIA is definitely socketed. Thanks for your help.

Thanks, I don't have S.A.L.T cart. GTIA on this machine is socketed - so it should be easy to replace. I searched eBay, don't see it there, will look for one at Best electronics.

I purchased Atari 130xe - it powers up but has a video issue - basic screen flickers, self test runs but screen has lots of odd characters. Any idea which chip to start with? Sound works fine. Power supply is NOT an issue, as I have 2 - both of them work on my 800xl, not on this 130xe Couple of pics attached. Thanks

The keyboard itself is fine - I pulled a keyboard from a working 800 and installed it on the defective motherboard - the working keyboard did not respond. I'll buy the 4051 on ebay - this should work? https://www.ebay.com/p/Texas-Instruments-CD4051BE-Multiplexer-8-Channel-16dip/1200436875?iid=282437169279&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D48740%26meid%3Db77ae6b4c40a4497aedc2fb862fea0bf%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D322795851890&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

Thanks, I will start the search for the 4051 chips.

I have an Atari 800 with keyboard that is not responding at all. I tried another keyboard - same issue. The issue is not with a keyboard - must the motherboard or the chip that controls the keyboard. What would you check first? Computer otherwise boots fine. Start/Select/Option/Reset buttons appear to work.

Thanks guys, sounds like it's not worth the trouble. Other than the LED the drive is mint condition, I'll just leave it as is.

I have an Indus GT drive in near mint condition, however couple of bars on the LED panel (where the drive status/sector info is displayed) don't light up. Has anyone attempted to fix this on their drive?

The label has an "800" printed in gold as opposed to black on the later models. I don't know when the color was switched from gold to black, but I have one of each.

Thanks, I missed the part about DC output. I guess it's best to stick with OEM power supply.

I reviewed a couple of websites/forum posts that go over power requirements for Atari 800/1050/810. Getting a "modern" 9V 5A AC adapter should satisfy the power requirements of this equipment. Does anyone know what is the power plug size? I'm thinking that something like this should work, assuming the plug size is correct? http://www.ebay.com/itm/172588182820

I'm looking for Atari 800 cartridge door and top case (that covers the RAM slots). If anyone has it for sale, please let me know. Thanks.

I have a 1050 drive hooked up to 800xl. The 1050 has an odd power issue. When I first plug in the power supply to the outlet, the drive will power up, but won't spin up. The 800xl will not detect it when booting up (holding option when starting up just goes to self test). When I wait about 5 minutes (after the 1050 has been plugged in to the outlet), the dive works reliably. Note, the drive switch can be in the off position, as long as it is plugged in to the outlet, it will continue to work. Any ideas where I should start looking? Would like to get it fixed, so it won't need to "warm-up". I'm using original Atari Power supply. Thanks.

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, I'm a long time Atari800Mac user. Today (May 15, 2017) core audio is again available on Sierra: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT207797 Can someone confirm this update fixes the no-sound issue with Atari800Mac ? I won't be able to try this for few days. Thanks