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About pmk222

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    Space Invader

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  1. I had measured the 12v out, it was right on. I wasn't sure if that would be issue but I tested it anyway. In hindsight, I guess the 12v line probably powers the modulator so it would be an issue of it was more or less than the 12v it's supposed to be.
  2. I'm curious as to what your thoughts were to fix that. I was thinking a second board connected to the first with headers to shift it to the other side of the case and two buttons (one for each side of the fire button, connected in parallel so it doesn't matter which is pressed)
  3. Also, I think the buttons for the joystick itself will be pretty easy to figure out but with the fire button pressing the button from the reverse side, it may be a bit of a challenge.
  4. Those are the same kind of switches I was thinking. I'm afraid of space restrictions. It'd be nice to have a drop in replacement where anyone could make or buy the parts/finished board and put it in with no modification. At least, that's the goal in my head.
  5. I definitely agree about the stiff cord. I put a little lithium grease where the plastic rubs and moves against each other. The sticks are now more loose than my atari joysticks. I'm going to experiment with making a replacement board for these. I'll likely be using tactile switches for the the feedback they'll give. Hopefully, I can come up with something that can use the original board with the diodes on it.
  6. Oh, okay. That makes a lot of sense. I had read something about the reason for it needing to be up somewhere else but I guess I just didn't quite comprehend the reasoning.
  7. So, the alpha lock key needs to be in the correct position because the game itself is expecting an upper or lower case from the controller input. Am I understanding that correctly?
  8. I've done a little searching around here and on Google. The only information I've come across is how people hate the original joysticks, how to fix the traces using silver conductive ink, and how there are adapter cables to go to atari style joysticks. I recently got a set of original joysticks and I genuinely like the way they feel in the hand. I wish they had the fire button on the corner like I've seen on one or two pair but nonetheless they feel good to me. Unfortunately, my set doesn't appear to work (I did make sure the alpha lock key wasn't the issue). I was wondering if anyone ever designed or made a drop in replacement for the original circuit in the joysticks? Something with tactile buttons instead of those weird touch contacts. Or, if there is some kind of rebuild kit for these available? My foam is starting to crumble... Also, why is it that no one seems to like these? Does it have to do with the way they actually function or the way they feel in the hand (or both)? P.s. what does the alpha lock key actually do for the computer?
  9. Apologies for the silence with this project. I was worried I was going to have to bench this project as I don't really have the skill or equipment for troubleshooting (I'm looking into getting an oscilloscope to change that). But, before I did I wanted to be sure that the computer was the problem and not the modulator. So, I got a cheap rca cable and made my own composite cable. The image was clear as day, so now I know my computer isn't bad. Moving forward, I'm going to get some new thermal paste to put on the VDU and I'll likely recap both the computer and the power supply. Thanks for all the advice and time you all put into this for me, I really appreciate it.
  10. Funny you brought that up, I did. I try and stupid proof my testing. I switched the channel select and modulator switch while on both channel 3 and 4 at the TV side. Just to be sure.
  11. I know the TV works. I use it for all my older systems and tried it with my atari 2600 today. It's really not THAT old compared to some. I tried both channel 3 and 4 with no luck.
  12. I ordered some more thermal paste for the VDP. After letting it sit for several hours, I also tried the computer again with no display at all. The VDP got noticeably warm (barely) but definitely not hot during that time. Is it possible that the video modulator is bad instead of something on the motherboard? I was thinking about getting an rca style cable for it anyway as that would be more convenient for me.
  13. Well, I made a huge rookie mistake and found two problems I should have identified earlier. Number 1: I checked the power supply output voltages. I got 5.25 on the +5, 12.11 on the +12, and -17 something in the -5. Note: when I rechecked the -5 line, I got -5.00. I checked this with the motherboard removed from the power supply. Number 2: I checked the input voltage to the computer. I got 9.29 and 29.66. The 9.29 seemed a little high until I saw that the 16v line was nearly double what it should be!
  14. this is a screenshot of the article I was looking at.
  15. I'll have to look into getting some! Definitely sounds like it could be useful for several applications. Glad to know! It does make me confused, even after rereading the article I had found on the fix. They even described it as "A large, fat ceramic capacitor that was going out of tolerance after it warmed up"
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