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About Nezgar

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  1. Most probably yes, since HyperXF was defeveloped by a European (Stefan Dorndorf). Atari did release a later ROM themselves "v7.7" that improved PAL compatibility: https://atariage.com/forums/topic/120561-xf551-ntsc-rom-image/?do=findComment&comment=1456364 There is a patched Atari ROM by Bob Woolley that also improves PAL compatibility.
  2. As your ROM is likely missing DD functionality, which is why I'm interested in it. With enough dumps (which I'm up to about 3 or 4 now), and disassembly by folks like Phaeron, we might be able to map out the order of ROM releases, and see which are derivatives of which. Maybe yours is very similar to the first RFD ROM's, but with some flag set or code omitted to block DD commands...
  3. I wonder how many single-density only AT88-S1's are out there.. and if there would be enough that might justify any effort in replicating the double-density adapter board... Most of the AT88's I've seen people posting about in the last year or two have been double density capable. (Including my own) Anyhow, I would be interested in a ROM dump from your single-density unit. The upgrade instructions for the DDA describe removing the ROM and replacing it, which virtually guarantees it has unique code for single-density only operation. Cheers
  4. 140 disks. I hope to get them ATR'd in the near future... Especially the TAF (Toronto Atari Federation) PD disks... Otherwise looks like a mix of Antic, Analog, and the usual pirated games.
  5. This is my favourite/daily driver still. Simple, cheap, reliable, and looks professional. Recommend it as the 1st purchase for anyone getting back into the 8-bits.
  6. Do these machines have an original OS ROM? When you do get into self test via "BYE" from BASIC, do the start/select/option keys seem a little less responsive in they keyboard test that you would expect? Does pressing one of them generate a solid or intermittent tone?
  7. Since it sounds like you're interested in a couple different BASIC variants, you don't have to pick just 1. You can put multiple switchable 8K BASIC ROM's on a single EPROM using a 2364 adapter such as this: http://store.go4retro.com/2364-adapter/ For example, with a 32KB (27C256) EPROM, you could switch between 4 different BASICs. Personally, I made one with Atari BASIC rev C, Alitrra BASIC 1.55, Atari Assembler/Editor, and Star Raiders. with a 64KB (27C512) EPROM you could have 8, which is too many IMHO , and is harder to find a single switch for... The floating point math routines are contained in the OS ROM, so will not be improved with only a BASIC ROM replacement.
  8. @andymanone @doctor_x A previous post with pics of my two Atari Calculators. One used and working once new batteries installed, one still sealed NIB from Best Electronics (They have many models of these..) One day it might get opened... But that might be when I have a second of the same. https://atariage.com/forums/topic/291846-i-bet-youve-never-seen-an-atari-personal-stereo-before/?do=findComment&comment=4287642
  9. OK good.. so this just points further away from the base 64K RAM being faulty, and towards the MMU or the or mod. Star Raiders will run with only 8K of RAM, so it works just fine because it doesn't touch the memory area that is faulty. Edit: Does anyone think it could be the EMMU (CO25953) or FREDDIE (CO61991)? Looks like the EMMU can also be programmed to a GAL16V8 like the MMU, if socketed it would fill the unoccupied 4 through-holes: https://www.atarimax.com/jindroush.atari.org/achemmu.html I've made a working XE/XE MMU with a GAL16V8, I haven't tried making an EMMU yet.
  10. Nope. Sounds familiar, but I couldn't remember either... so I checked the Altirra hardware reference manual: Maybe you're thinking of the 810 Archiver? Although it does a format+verify of each track before moving to the next, so at track 39 you would see a final seek to track 0 to write the DOS structures... An interesting variant I have witnessed is the Speedy 1050 - unlike all other drives, it starts the format at track 39, and formats+verifies each track towards 0. This is a *great* idea that would have saved some people from accidental formats, as the last tracks of the disk are least likely to contain critical data, giving a user a chance to turn off the drive or remove the disk in a panic, and have minimal data loss.
  11. Thanks @Rybags. I went ahead and messed with the sensor position before performing your tests... The original green loctite was still intact, so in theory they had never previously been adjusted.. Once loosening, I could see that it was in the furthest position it could slide toward the front of the drive alread. I pushed it towards the back of the drive about 1mm and re-tightened it, re-ran the 1050 diagnostics and I now get a pass. I then tried the head seek tests you mentioned after this adjustment. Seek disk to sector 600 (using EDDY.EXE), formatted the disk OK. remove disk, reinsert, back in EDDY, able write sector 10 and sector 600, and read them back no problem... so I think I can call this issue solved. I guess I could move it back and see if the above process still fails.. nah. PS: This drive has the Stock Rev K ROM, and the format routine formats track 0-39, then verifies from 39-0.
  12. So I have a 1050 that functions reads writes & formats for regular use perfectly fine otherwise when in use, but I noticed it fails the Track 00 sensor test in the 1050 diagnostics software. I read in a previous post by @phaeron : "...the track 0 sensor also activates on track 0.5 (!). This is documented in the Tandon manual and required for the Indus GT track 0 sensor adjustment test to pass." https://atariage.com/forums/topic/256683-altirra-280-released/page/10/?tab=comments#comment-3643388 So the sensor is working, but I presume this means I need to adjust it. This issue is new to me, but it looks like it's just 2 screws to loosen to allow the sensor block to move until the diagnostics software likes it? Anyone else seen/adjusted this before?
  13. Cool, that is actually the exact model that a buddy of mine got, and I have forwarded a link to my wife. so that's 2 endorsements I've seen some videos on youtube of some $100-$150 china brands, but probably better to just get the real thing and avoid any possible grief.
  14. Even Rev. A had bugs that could lockup the computer. Check out this previous topic that covers all known bugs in awesome detail:
  15. A 600XL, 800XL, 65XE or 800XE MMU will be compatible in the 130XE. 400, 800, 1200XL, XEGS are not. Getting it from best electronics will be fine, if you buy enough to make the minimum order. I'll let others comment on specific soldering temps, as my own soldering iron is just a simple 20/40 watt iron, and mechanical solder sucker. I just try to keep contact times to a couple seconds max at a time, and never force the chip out if its still "stuck" after desoldering. You can help each pin free by wiggling the pin with a screwdriver while heating the pin with the soldering iron. (Xmas may improve my desoldering tool situation to do more than 1 or 2 chips in an evening. )
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