Scyzor

O yeah, standalone mode. Didn't thought about it. Thanks again!

OK, so I had it set to 1088k Rambo. Looks like the naming nomenclature has changed since. At first, I thought I screwed something when flashing from 3.x to 4.x I was looking at juggling carts, not CF cards till I had all moved from SIDE2 onto SIDE3. I assume by switching the plugin from S2 to S3 I will lose access to the hard disks on SIDE2.

Reliable @flashjazzcat, thanks for the explanation! Now all is clear.

Sounds like it. So my question is should I keep OS as XL 1.3 for 130XE or look to load a dedicated OS ROM for XE? Not sure what exactly is that XL 1.3 based on https://atariwiki.org/wiki/Wiki.jsp?page=OS Versions

Yeah, I have done that with Atari OS-B PAL and then I'm getting the same error as I have posted in the OP. Also, I'm using SIDE2. Got SIDE3 but is not ready to use as I have other questions related to it (posted in another thread).

U1MB version: Working BIOS config: and in case of UFlash what was flashed so far:

OK, so based on https://atariwiki.org/wiki/Wiki.jsp?page=OS Versions I can load 400/800 OS Rev. B NTSC and which revision of XL/XE should I look for?

OK, trying to find that option to enable due to the same error message. Even can't even find it in the manual Also another question. Currently, I have U1MB + SIDE2 (both up to date) but recently got SIDE3. From the description, I need to flash only U1MBS3FW.ROM but then I will lose backward compatibility with SIDE2? I mean I need to backup stuff non-FAT partitions from SIDE2 before flashing U1MB to add SIDE3 support?

Hmm... I can't find that option that they are talking about including manual

For some reason, Ultimate 1MB (FW ver 4.20) stopped recognizing extended memory in the 1088 Rambo config. When I run SDX it shows no extended memory. When I try to run UFlash it shows the message: Please enable extended RAM or disable SDX RAMdisk. I have that behavior when OS ROM is set to Atari OS-B PAL. It works fine when set to XL 1.3. Is that because I have an NTSC machine? Is there a way to add or replace OS-B PAL to OS-B NTSC? Or add XL/XE as another choice how it was in old FW version? Thanks

And I think this is the problem. I have put 60mm PC fan above it and it was working stable for more than 5 minutes. Only one thing which I have noticed are strange shapes on the screen where is green color on the picture below (left side and bottom - top right is fine). It looks like a scan of a memory bank or so. Doesn't look like typical "jail bars". So back to the TIA - should I replace it or put some radiators on it or do some small 5V/9V fan mod?

Based on schematics below it looks like that C208 and C209 are behind the CR200 and CR201 but C209 is before R211 so voltage fluctuation source can be C203, and looking at CR200 I should to have stable 5V on anode side of it no matter how I will adjust R211. Also I have have no clue if Q201 will have anything to do with that or it is just there for as signal from a crystal.

When I max out R211 (counterclockwise it to #1) I have between 7-5V (when will change to B/W) the same on CR201 cathode. Even I have pulled out A201 and clean up the socket. Did not help much but now when I will leave console up and running it will fade out to B/W and then is getting darker. When I was adjusting R211 from #1 towards #4 I was getting those readings on C209: 5.75V (with drop when goes B/W), 5.10, 7.07 (R211 in the middle), 7.22 and 7.40v (when turned on #4) C208: 4.56v (with drop when goes B/W), 3.87, 1.92 (R211 in the middle), 0.56 and 0.20v (when turned on #4) No clue from where those drops are coming from PS. I have left multimeter attached to CR201 and voltage started to fluctuate between 7.2 and 4.64 after like 2-3 minutes. To have it back to 7V I need to turn off console and unplug power supply.

So based on above diagram I'm getting below 5V on pin #10 of A201 and 6.75V on cathode of CR201 so it comes that it may be defective: - C208 - C209 - R211 I think I can rule out defective R211 as there is valid voltage on CR210. At that case I think one of capacitors may be defective: C208 and/or C209.

Yeah - that is with B/W, no changes there. C201 is stable 5.05-5.06V CR201 is 6.75V and 5.68V Also found that diagram for repairing 2600 so will try to follow it.

Is 10.25-10.27V on IN and 5.10-5.12V on OUT.

I have measured voltage on all 4 points from the attached picture and on three of them I had a voltage drop when colors were gone: #1: 6.2V -> 5.56V #2: 4.2V -> 3.20V #3: 3.56V -> 3.18V #4: constant 0V Initial voltages make sense for each measure point but voltage drop is unknown for me. Should I replace power transistor or that big capacitor? Thanks and Happy New Year!

I have installed composite out mod following steps from https://vintagegamingandmore.com/installation-guide-6-switch/ but I can't get colors to stay on the screen. Green will go to blue and the all will become shades of gray except yellow color. Color potentiometer adjustment will not change much except it will make video out gone or display. Any thoughts on that?

Is this still available somewhere?

Is there any way to restore red ATARI badge on XE version? I'm looking to get it from a faded out state to closes red color as possible.

Kind of OT but is there any way to restore red ATARI badge on XE version? I'm looking to get it from a faded out state to closes red color as possible.

It looks like it was recognized by XRAM: No clue if it passed or not as there is no indication of any failure Also I have tried another extended memory test util but wasn't that good as that one above. Back to other my questions - any thoughts on them? Thanks

Does it works on 130XE keyboard (matte)? I mean it will not remove keys printing?

I was lucky to acquire Atari 130XE in a good shape. After picking it up I have found that it is modified 130XE. After further examination it came has installed MB NEWELL MEG130 Rev.C And it looks like: Attached is under ANTIC and PIA: Based on the manual (#5) side switch, which works as the OPTION key as well, should be connected to the PIA pin #11 and GND but is connected to a resistor (red wire - photo above) and the wire #16 is not connected to the PIA pin 11 but to a resistor under (gray wire connected to a resistor on the right side to the right wire - photo above). Does anybody know why was connected in that configuration but not how is described in the manual? Also I have no idea why the side switch is for instead of the OPTION key. The manual is describing similar configuration as "select the internal basic" but existing solution is connected to the ANTIC not the BASIC IC. On another hand how I can test that memory expansion? Self-test procedure doesn't see that expansion as extended memory. Another question is regarding "wiring" on two memory chips of the first bank: Does it mean that was there issue with the motherboard and it was fixed that way? Another mod on that Atari looks like 3rd joystick port: On the photo you can see bunch of wires in the black cover. Some of them are connected from the joystick port #3 to the joystick port #1 and Expansion Port (2 wires). Anyone on what is for that mod? Thanks!

I have two 130XE - a "primary" one has kind of a matte keyboard which looks somehow dirty and not sure if the retro bright method is going to work on those keycaps, and "backup" one which has kind of glossy keyboard which is easy to clean. And here are my questions - what are differences between those two keyboards? just type of the plastic used for keycaps? which one is better to use for a "primary" one and if so can I switch between? Thanks!