SignGuy81

This is the kind I've used before https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-3-Way-Audio-Video-AV-RCA-Black-Switch-Box-Splitter-US-Seller-fast-Shipping/300895140295?hash=item460ebf79c7:g:ZisAAOSwdGFYyIO~

So just another AtGames unit. Don't see much to get excited about yet.

As long as your wok is neat and it works it really doesn't matter how you do it. I remove that connector because the connector is no longer used for anything but when I do xbox internal HDMI converter mod for example I do not remove the original A/V connector on the Xbox as it can still be used so I just solder the wires to the pins(on the ones where connecting wires I desolder the pins first and add fresh solder) on the back side of the board so both can be used.

Good luck with the sale but one thing: "WORKING ColecoVision w/RCA output mod, tons of extras, 17 carts, Atari module" It is your business how you list it but in the title if I see "working"(and you even have that word in all caps) and in "used" category I'm assuming the product is working fully as intended, not just partially working and I believe that is the policy as far as listing goes on ebay. Yes you did mention in the description that it won't read CV carts but I would still change the title to "Partially Working" if it were me. Just my opinion as a buyer but list however you want. EDIT: I double checked that about the policy. http://pages.ebay.com/sellerinformation/sellingresources/itemconditionlookup.html First step click "Video Games", then click "Systems." After that you have a list of appropriate condition categories. Here is you will find: "Used: An item that has been used previously. The item may have some signs of cosmetic wear, but is fully operational and functions as intended. This item may be a floor model or store return that has been used. See the seller's listing for full details and description of any imperfections." Just my 2 cents.

Yes, you want to try to make all the bad ones look as much like the good ones as possible.

Worked on SNES for derFunkenstein. Excellent communication and prompt payment. Would definitely do business with again!

Yeah but the Ataribox doesn't have an Apple logo.

Sounds like L202 may be open or bad solder joint(s) at it that may need to be reflowed.

http://www.robotsandcomputers.com/computers/manuals/atari2600_fsm.pdf page 42 of 156 of the pdf i would at the two 820pF(C206, C207) caps and the NPN transistor(Q201), and with system on make sure you have your +5VB in the circuit shown also you can follow troubleshooting steps on page 121 of the pdf I linked above.

That is correct about the TIA but it is probably in the circuitry between the TIA and the RF.

Have to start somewhere no need to get frustrated. A system that came free is a good place to start. It would probably help to post pics of your work and me or others could give you tips on what could be done better as far as soldering/desoldering and where to start in getting the problem fixed.

I meant if you decide to throw in the trash

If you decide to do that again I would gladly pay shipping for you to send to me instead.

I'm pretty sure you could find the BIOS online.

Glad you got the pro working. The other you mentioned where you have to press down on the end of the cord is probably going to need a new cord with the end.

Do you have the same issue with a regular controller with it being jittery on the 5200? If not then I would think the problem isn't in the 5200 as far as it taking the input, but still may be problem with the 5200 as far as sending power to the chips in the trackball unit. Can you check and verify voltage? Check from pin 1(gnd) and pin 2(+5V) of J2 for 5V. The schematic is here http://www.atarihq.com/danb/images/52TB_PCB1_schem.pdf found here http://www.atarihq.com/danb/52trakball.shtml with other useful info. That is the first thing I would check. To me if it works in the 4 port you would think the trackball is okay but if with regular controllers the analog sticks work fine on the 2 port but the trackball doesn't the only thing I could think of would be a power issue going to the trackball not enough voltage for the chips or something. EDIT: Almost forgot make sure to check it while J2 is plugged in as well.

Yeah I paid very little for it and will probably just keep it at my workbench to play pac-man since it is so small won't be in the way. It has a crease in the sticker on top as well so it isn't mint anyway. At first when I was searching ebay I didn't see any cheap at all that looked like it but I was typing the wrong thing in as soon as I typed "retro arcade" in along with it I seen several just like mine in the $20 to $40 range. The other thing I noticed as well was all of the ones showing(not particularly selling) around $300 were new in box so maybe that is why they are pricing so high. I didn't notice the absence of the A and B printed on the higher priced ones as well but i didn't pay too close attention when first looking(edit: just noticed I see it now where the A and B is gone, edit 2: well now I just noticed here https://www.walmart.com/ip/Retro-Arcade-Pac-Man-TV-Game/11061008?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=916&adid=22222222227007965287&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=155663088362&wl4=aud-310687322322:pla-98332046963&wl5=9008304&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=113134359&wl11=online&wl12=11061008&wl13=&veh=sem the top stock photo there is an absence of A and B printed on it but the pic right below showing it in the box has A and B on it).

Why is this so high here https://www.walmart.com/ip/Retro-Arcade-Pac-Man-TV-Game/11061008?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=916&adid=22222222227007965287&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=155663088362&wl4=aud-310687322322:pla-98332046963&wl5=9008304&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=113134359&wl11=online&wl12=11061008&wl13=&veh=sem and https://www.ebay.com/itm/Retro-Arcade-Pac-Man-TV-Game-/222291079718?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10 and https://www.amazon.com/Pac-Plug-Play-Video-Game/dp/B000NAHFCI Is there any significant date code or anything I need to look for?

Glad you got it working. I directed the person from this post http://atariage.com/forums/topic/276641-atari-800-only-getting-black-and-white/ to check this one out in case theirs is the same problem.

You may want to take a look here http://atariage.com/forums/topic/277122-early-800-only-showing-bw/ the user found the no color problem with theirs it may be the same issue with yours.

Pretty sure he just accidentally posted some wrong information and went back and edited it out after realizing. I do that all the time.

Well, actually it is very possible for it to be the port yet some controllers still work. It may work out by chance that it might make contact with one plug while another doesn't. It may be one cord end is pressing a pin in the port in a way that it connects while some don't and some have a loose connection like described. EDIT: I just realized I read that wrong you meant both controllers being less likely.

Could you post pics of the controller boards top and bottom maybe someone could spot something.

I only had a schematic showing one chip but I guess because it wasn't the pro I was looking at. The 74LS244 is the buffer chip shown in the one I was looking at. EDIT: I can't find the right schematic for the pro you may have to trace it to the correct chip.

Just to double check you do mean all buttons including the number pad correct? More specifically the *, 0, and # buttons as this row and "up" go to the same input on the buffer chip.