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SignGuy81

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Posts posted by SignGuy81

  3. Posted · Edited by SignGuy81

    Hey everyone, I just saw this photo. Is this the way most people are doing it? Remove the connector and add the wires ? Makes sense. I had not see anyone on youtube do it that way but it makes perfect sense.

     

    http://atariage.com/forums/uploads/monthly_03_2018/post-34298-0-29374800-1520704942.jpeg

     

    As long as your wok is neat and it works it really doesn't matter how you do it. I remove that connector because the connector is no longer used for anything but when I do xbox internal HDMI converter mod for example I do not remove the original A/V connector on the Xbox as it can still be used so I just solder the wires to the pins(on the ones where connecting wires I desolder the pins first and add fresh solder) on the back side of the board so both can be used.

    • Like 1

  4. Posted · Edited by SignGuy81

    I can't get it to work, so it's all up for sale. :(

     

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/273166274655

     

    Good luck with the sale but one thing:

     

     

    "WORKING ColecoVision w/RCA output mod, tons of extras, 17 carts, Atari module"

     

    It is your business how you list it but in the title if I see "working"(and you even have that word in all caps) and in "used" category I'm assuming the product is working fully as intended, not just partially working and I believe that is the policy as far as listing goes on ebay. Yes you did mention in the description that it won't read CV carts but I would still change the title to "Partially Working" if it were me. Just my opinion as a buyer but list however you want.

     

     

    EDIT:

     

    I double checked that about the policy.

     

    http://pages.ebay.com/sellerinformation/sellingresources/itemconditionlookup.html

     

    First step click "Video Games", then click "Systems."

     

    After that you have a list of appropriate condition categories.

     

    Here is you will find:

     

    "Used: An item that has been used previously. The item may have some signs of cosmetic wear, but is fully operational and functions as intended. This item may be a floor model or store return that has been used. See the seller's listing for full details and description of any imperfections."

     

    Just my 2 cents.

  5. Posted

    Any advice? I managed to get the top off and used one of those picks, but I think I made it worse. It still turns on and gives me the same message. What am I supposed to be doing with the pick? Pry that first connector on the lower left, yes?

     

    Yes, you want to try to make all the bad ones look as much like the good ones as possible.

  11. Posted

    but hate myself when I mess things up. Not a good thing.

     

    Have to start somewhere no need to get frustrated. A system that came free is a good place to start. It would probably help to post pics of your work and me or others could give you tips on what could be done better as far as soldering/desoldering and where to start in getting the problem fixed.

  14. Posted

    Well I don’t think I’ll ever be using this emulator. You have to dump the BIOS from whatever model of PS2 you have, and I’m just not comfortable doing that. Plus, doing so evidently requires you to use FreeMcBoot, which I find to be to confusing. At any rate, I have a slim PS2, so it doesn’t have a hard drive.

     

    I'm pretty sure you could find the BIOS online.

    • Like 2

  16. Posted · Edited by SignGuy81

     

    Anyway, what could be causing this issue with my 2 port 5200? Is there some kind of IC that is responsible for this?

     

    Do you have the same issue with a regular controller with it being jittery on the 5200?

     

    If not then I would think the problem isn't in the 5200 as far as it taking the input, but still may be problem with the 5200 as far as sending power to the chips in the trackball unit. Can you check and verify voltage? Check from pin 1(gnd) and pin 2(+5V) of J2 for 5V. The schematic is here http://www.atarihq.com/danb/images/52TB_PCB1_schem.pdf found here http://www.atarihq.com/danb/52trakball.shtml with other useful info.

     

    That is the first thing I would check. To me if it works in the 4 port you would think the trackball is okay but if with regular controllers the analog sticks work fine on the 2 port but the trackball doesn't the only thing I could think of would be a power issue going to the trackball not enough voltage for the chips or something.

     

    EDIT:

     

    Almost forgot make sure to check it while J2 is plugged in as well.

    • Like 1

  17. Posted · Edited by SignGuy81

    People can ask whatever they want. I searched completed and seen none that sold. It does appear that is a variant of some kind as it does not have "A and B" written on it. I think the side art may be different too.

     

    Yeah I paid very little for it and will probably just keep it at my workbench to play pac-man since it is so small won't be in the way. It has a crease in the sticker on top as well so it isn't mint anyway. At first when I was searching ebay I didn't see any cheap at all that looked like it but I was typing the wrong thing in as soon as I typed "retro arcade" in along with it I seen several just like mine in the $20 to $40 range. The other thing I noticed as well was all of the ones showing(not particularly selling) around $300 were new in box so maybe that is why they are pricing so high. I didn't notice the absence of the A and B printed on the higher priced ones as well but i didn't pay too close attention when first looking(edit: just noticed I see it now where the A and B is gone, edit 2: well now I just noticed here https://www.walmart.com/ip/Retro-Arcade-Pac-Man-TV-Game/11061008?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=916&adid=22222222227007965287&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=155663088362&wl4=aud-310687322322:pla-98332046963&wl5=9008304&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=113134359&wl11=online&wl12=11061008&wl13=&veh=sem the top stock photo there is an absence of A and B printed on it but the pic right below showing it in the box has A and B on it).

  18. Posted · Edited by SignGuy81

    post-54455-0-43669500-1523580839_thumb.jpg

     

     

    Why is this so high here https://www.walmart.com/ip/Retro-Arcade-Pac-Man-TV-Game/11061008?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=916&adid=22222222227007965287&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=155663088362&wl4=aud-310687322322:pla-98332046963&wl5=9008304&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=113134359&wl11=online&wl12=11061008&wl13=&veh=sem

     

    and https://www.ebay.com/itm/Retro-Arcade-Pac-Man-TV-Game-/222291079718?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10

     

    and https://www.amazon.com/Pac-Plug-Play-Video-Game/dp/B000NAHFCI

     

    Is there any significant date code or anything I need to look for?

  22. Posted · Edited by SignGuy81

     

     

    As for updates, now I'm having similar but slightly different issues with my 3 button controller as well.

     

    I need to press the connector on the port down for it to register the up button and the three number buttons, while the pro controller's up button does not respond at all same as before. So now I'm even more confused if this is an issue with the pro controller, the controller port or both controllers (this one being the least likely.)

     

     

    Well, actually it is very possible for it to be the port yet some controllers still work. It may work out by chance that it might make contact with one plug while another doesn't. It may be one cord end is pressing a pin in the port in a way that it connects while some don't and some have a loose connection like described. EDIT: I just realized I read that wrong you meant both controllers being less likely.

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