SignGuy81

Could you go with a projector instead?

Yes, that is correct.

What did you decide to go with or are you still deciding?

Do you have a multimeter?

That would depend on how it may have failed. If it is like he said and the voltage is too low currently from it that is probably the problem still which is power supply or if it was like I said and allowed too much voltage a chip(s) into the console may have been damaged even if it was just temporary. He is right first thing you should check is the power supply voltage.

I would have to see the schematic on the XEGS but I don't know if it has over voltage protection built in or not but I would be worried using the chinese power supply there and whether or not it has it built in. If not I would take a 5.6V zener and put across the power supply reverse bias inside the console to offer some protection. Of course you still have the original problem to solve first.

Even worse, I ordered a console of ebay and they thought it was a great idea to tape everything to the console.

I have made one purchase with the above mentioned(best) and probably last I ever do. I felt like the guy on the end got rude with me when I asked for a confirmation number over the phone after giving him my information he actually told me on the phone he didn't have time for that that I would have to email them for a confirmation number. Never will I deal with them again. EDIT: The stuff did come in the mail as supposed to but still how much trouble would it have been to give me some kind of reference number or something to the purchase.

Here you go https://www.ebay.com/itm/ATARI-FLASHBACK-3-CLASSIC-GAME-CONSOLE-w-JOYSTICKS-POWER-CHORD-ADAPTERS/162939398368?hash=item25eff1e8e0:g:QhoAAOSw5i5apCrE Edit: I just realized that one was untested(which means it should have not been in the "used" category) so here is a tested flashback 2 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Atari-Flashback-2-Console-Tested/312021245477?epid=110682048&hash=item48a5ea5e25:g:9e4AAOSwB4BaLBtX

by inexpensive how much? reason I ask is you can sometimes find a flashback in the 20 dollar range with shipping on ebay that comes with joysticks, and the bonus is you get another console as well

Here is a start http://atariage.com/forums/topic/215531-supercharger-schematics-whats-inside-of-it/

I love the setup you have there.

Console5 has the kits

PMed

I'm gonna say it is more of the games that helped save the industry than the system. Unfortunately because of Nintendo the other consoles couldn't get all the great games. And also even after the 8 bit era how many didn't move on til the next gen until Mortal Kombat? I would think that one particular game helped keep many gamers gaming after they have grown out of their NES. I got my Sega Genesis back in the day solely because I wanted to play that one game but did enjoy many others on it. EDIT: I remember actually wanting to buy an SNES after playing Killer Instinct on my cousins SNES just unfortunately I didn't have the money to get it at the time and stuck with Sega but I think the fighting games had a lot of influence causing teenagers to go out and get the next gen after growing out of the old systems.

So I'm asking as a potential customer perhaps sometime in the future what did you do to try and resolve this issue? "I'm sorry this happened to the customer" doesn't cut it. You were the last one with it and it was your responsibility to get it back. If it was actually scanned in then you left then it would have been on the post office, not you. Did you replace the customer's Colecovision or make it right in another way? Did he make this right with you?

Could you take a picture of the back of the whole board and also close up around A104(a couple inches all the way around) on the back side?

Is it possible for you to desolder one leg from both the good board and bad board of the caps and recheck them?

I was looking back at the post I linked to with the same issue someone else was having and the schematic. For the other person I suggested looking at the 10pF cap inline with the color signal(I don't know if they tried checking/swapping it or not). It is the 10pF between R196 and pin 12 of A104. This cap is not labeled on the schematic other than the value.

Did some work on a lynx for schnuth everything went smoothly. Excellent person to do business with!

Many years ago I didn't have much room in my bedroom for a TV and a computer so I put a hauppauge TV tuner card in the computer(the card also had composite input) and I hooked my Playstation 2 to the computer that way and would play it. I think the card was a WinTV Go specifically but not sure. However it still wasn't running the PS2 on the computer it was just a means to get a video display without a TV. You wouldn't be running the Atari 2600 on the PC you would be connecting it to the PC but the PC would not be handling any of the Atari 2600s processing, unless you meant to say running an Atari 2600 emulator on a PC? EDIT: I see you also had in title "via coax to HDMI" so I'm assuming your computer has an HDMI port, but are you certain it isn't an HDMI out port or do you know for sure that it is an input(like your computer has a card like the one I mentioned I used to have but also includes HDMI IN? If so is that the only option you have for input or does it also have coax or composite because that would be the easiest route to go if you want to get the video from Atari into the computer. I would look into getting a tuner card with S-Video/composite inputs. EDIT 2: This is the card that I had. But I would try to find something which has S-Video input if your Atari is S-Video modded. If it isn't modded for composite or s-video though this card should work fine thru the tuner. I don't know anything about this card https://www.ebay.com/itm/5188-1744-PCI-TV-Tuner-Card-Asus-Falcon2-NTSC-32-bit-33-M/112499785306?hash=item1a31827e5a:g:x4oAAOSwTLxZe5kj but it has s-video and composite.

That is true but what I meant was is it worth the risk?

I can see a reason not to I guess if you happen to stumble upon something that was just listed and it is an extremely good deal you may want to get it as soon as you can before someone else grabs it up while you are trying to look at the photos, so I can see her point of view.

I think the guy was lying anyway just trying to get more money(may have had an offer but not as much). Why would you tell a buyer that? He would have been better off using the excuse the guy told me about the PS3 that something happened to it, lost it, got stolen, anything other than "I'm a pretty shady seller going outside of policy here with an outside offer so can you match it?" I believe if he had an outside offer he would have just used an excuse like I mentioned and took the money. I would still believe the person is lying about the options I mentioned but I would probably still give benefit of doubt I guess if leaving feedback but yeah to flat tell the person you are trying to do them wrong i can't believe it and I hope he gets suspended or banned for it.

Take a look at the post I referenced earlier. I didn't think to mention the 4050 chip either as well in that post to begin with. But apparently it can still affect the the signal, as well as Q105 which it doesn't directly pass thru. Take a look at page 158 of the same manual. EDIT: I just realized I misread the step and actually it the next step was supposed to be to check the color circuity and color delay circuit and R309, and only to swap the parts I mentioned if the screen didn't look like Figure 3-4(nothing to do with the color it meant the pattern on 3-4) so I see I misread that there. EDIT: Nope I believe I was right in what I thought it was referring to. The black and white manual was throwing me off but I remember now from the previous page you can see that when referring to figure 3-4 it keeps asking if it doesn't look like it can you adjust it to the right color so yes I do believe that is a valid step to replace those parts and they can affect the color.