SignGuy81

Try swapping out A103 also(the 4050 chip), it might be causing the problem as well looking at page 158 of the PDF I linked earlier.

Do you mean boards or mod service?

SOLD

Hi, I was just taking a look at some possibilities that may be causing the problem. I would take a look at the transistor array A104, and the 10pF between R196 and pin 12 of A104. The cap itself doesn't show to be labeled with a number on the schematic. Check all the solder joints around that circuit. I would start with those two components first. All I could find for A104 was Atari's part number C010174. I wound up looking up pinouts of other transistor arrays and it appears to me that CA3046(another 14 pin NPN transistor array) has the same pin arrangement as the schematic I'm linking next, not quite sure though if it is a suitable replacement. I'm looking at page 51 of 219 in this PDF http://www.atarimania.com/documents/Atari_400_800_Field_Service_Manual_June_82.pdf Q105 may also be a possibility(over all signal may be weak and why some monitors you hook to are picking up color while others aren't). Q105 is just a common 2N3904 NPN transistor so that may be the easiest to obtain and start off with to try and replace and see if it makes a difference.

I was exaggerating a bit but he said something to me before too because I didn't set the date/time on a photo.

CPUWIZ is a stickler on that.

Nuon has any.

It should be fine I haven't had any issues with using JB Weld it holds up good. As long as you roughen the area up and clean it well before applying and letting it set it holds very good and you should be able to put pressure on it without it breaking. I have an NES I still have which I've done the exact same fix to and have taken it apart and put back together several times and haven't had an issue with the post. The biggest thing that would make it break loose wouldn't be trying to tug the to halves apart anyway it would be screwing it back down, which hasn't happened to mine yet. I was just being me when I posted that above about it and the others breaking, sorry.

Yes and so will the unbroken ones depending on how hard you try to pull on it.

Use epoxy instead and build it up around it. First clean the area with a scotch pad. EDIT: You can still superglue the post down and let it set up then epoxy around after it has set up. I've used JB Weld for that with good results.

Yep, that is C13 and C14, two of the components that are mentioned to replace along with Q4 for no sound in one of the steps on page 87 of the PDF.

Wouldn't be as bad if they rented bigger space than they do. Blockbuster video had about 3 times the space(or at least the one near me before it closed), was plenty of room to walk around and browse thru movies and not be on top of everyone.

This one would be better because it is black https://www.ebay.com/itm/DB9-D-SUB-VGA-jack-10pin-Terminal-Breakout-PCB-Connector-COVER-HOOD-nut-black/282390138626?epid=1462714704&hash=item41bfc38f02:g:OT0AAOSwcwhVPzPR and matches color.

Not sure if you are good at soldering or not but you could use this https://www.ebay.com/itm/DB9-D-SUB-VGA-female-10pin-Terminal-Breakout-PCB-Connector-COVER-HOOD-SHELL-nut/302393572582?epid=1462714704&hash=item46680fbce6:g:SikAAOSwVm5ZABoS if not. That is from China so it is cheap option you could find a closer item maybe but it may cost more. With this it looks like you can fit both cord ends inside and make it work. You would also have to remove the hex screws which would be in the way of plugging it into the 2600 but other than that should be good to go I would think.

If the cord looks good the problem could be the connection at the 9 pin plug maybe you can cut it off and replace it. Give me a minute I'll come back with one you can replace it with.

I forgot to mention one thing in my post that you replied to. Another thing I think may would be a system seller is to play the old classics with friends online, in addition to new exclusive titles. But if it doesn't have any of that I believe it would be pointless and just can't see how a name and a logo on a case can justify a purchase.

I for one do not like how they don't care about employee's appearances now like they used to(probably for fear of getting sued for discrimination). When I worked fast food long ago we had to shave our beard, keep our nails short, no nose rings, etc. Now they don't seem to care.

Probably because the manager got on her/him after you left and she/he claimed it was discrimination because she/he is transgendered, lol.

I guess my question is what new do they have to offer as far as games as to why I would need a system from them? If they had a bunch of exclusive new upgraded titles coming out only available on it like Nintendo for example I can see maybe. And if it is a bunch of old games still why not stick with a Flashback. If and when it comes out, for me to buy it I better see a must have game that I cannot get on any other system(with others lined up).

Boy I must have missed a lot on this thread. Last I checked was tacos now it is cryptocurrecy. So what is the deal now? Do we have to buy the Ataribox with cryptocurrency or is the Ataribox now going to be a cryptocurrency mining machine?

I agree and it was a good suggestion. I didn't know he would be doing the mod to the board as he hadn't said yet plus he already swapped chips to verify problem wasn't the chip. I was just saying it is more than likely before the RF modulator however where the problem lies, in the circuit on page 38 of the schematic linked above the circuit that goes before the modulator with the inductors L1 and L2, Q4, the diodes C7 & C8, and the caps in that circuit it is more than likely something there, before the signal gets mixed with the others that go into the modulator. But yes that was another good suggestion/method to verify the chip was outputting audio.

I disagree. More circuitry between the point he tapped and the RF modulator where all the signals are mixed before going in. But if I'm wrong it won't be the first time.

I believe it is part of the plastic warn too in the lettering. I don't think you could replicate the other two by painting the letters on the 3rd one because the other two that are painted the top is flat and wide. If you tried to paint the 3rd one as wide it wouldn't look the same.

I figured Crosbows suggestion would work, you pretty much confirmed that when swapping the chips that the problem wasn't the chip. I didn't know you were going to be modding the console as well but yeah it would be nice to get it going stock first and come back with the results as to which component it was.

Thought I would share this with you. https://www.ebay.com/itm/ER-MU-118-DIGITAL-6-FUNCTION-MULTIMETER-with-TEMP-FREQUENCY-COUNTER/272469204181?hash=item3f706e1cd5:g:pOsAAOSwnDZT8Vlo With this meter with a frequency counter you would be able to go through the troubleshooting flow chart http://www.digitpress.com/library/techdocs/5200_field_service_manual_rev_3.pdf on page 87 of 194 of the PDF. Also has transistor and capacitance test.