SignGuy81

Probably be best to get it working on both TVs then see if it still exists and go from there.

I think he came up with the character himself I believe but game was inspired by some other games. I could be wrong though but I think the character was his idea although it may share same name as a cartoon character. The creator of the game is David P Gray.

Was this with the wire plugged in while checking?

That is correct, I just looked at the schematic as well. If he were to check it while wire was plugged in it would probably read around 5.6V as it said. The excess voltage from the unregulated supply would be dropping across the 12ohm 2 watt resistor. But since checking it open with a multimeter which has high impedance it is going to read higher voltage than stated in the schematic since it is unregulated supply and it hasn't got a load on it.

Try replacing C241 and C242 http://www.ebay.com/itm/172288217132?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I should've mentioned I have no programming experience with the Atari 2600. I've done some stuff in C# for Xbox 360 with XNA but that was a long time ago, and took a class on Visual Basic, and also have used GameMaker Studio but all that has been a few years back. I heard that Atari 2600 is difficult to program for due to the nature of how it operates but it is something I'd like to learn at some point. But no I don't have the chops for it either I was joking more or less because I'm always out of ideas but if someone handed me something showing me what they want done I can do it no problem(if I have enough time) but coming up with the idea myself is the hard part.

Thanks for the quick reply.

I remember seeing about a week ago or less an option up top for Chat and now it is gone. Anyone know what happened to it. At the time it said I couldn't use it because not enough posts but now that I have over 100 it is gone. Not a huge deal to me was just wondering though.

If you can't wait you might be one of the lucky ones that still has a radio shack near you to go in and get resistors https://www.radioshack.com/apps/store-locator Looks like a lot more even closed just a couple months ago I didn't realize that. Sad.

Here is a link to some resistors. I gotta restock some myself. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1500pcs-Carbon-Film-Resistors-1-4W-75-Values-Assortment-Kit-1-ohm-10M-ohm-5/131867507451?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D40130%26meid%3Dba7a283cfce2439790b124005a2cc8b6%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D322467236930

The best way to describe it for you would be that electricity will try to take the easiest path(least resistive) so what you have before increasing the values like I mentioned is part of the video signal can leak and not get into the base. But increasing the values makes the path more resistive so less leaking of video signal before going into base of the transistor.

That's funny. I grew up with Atari, Sega, and NES and never had static with my NES RF Switch. Only ones I've had trouble with are the manual switches when the contacts stop making good contact.

If there were a resistor in series with the video signal before it goes into the base of the transistor that you increase, then yes you would weaken the signal. But that is not the case.

I have the chops for programming but can't ever get any ideas for games.

Are you using this on a TV that has an analog/digital tuner where you have an antenna hooked up to it and need to be able to switch between Game and TV(antenna)? If not get this instead because it is a lot cheaper and you have some for your other systems and is also better at blocking interference. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/301939295967?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT If you do need a switch though instead I would get this automatic one which is cheaper than the one you showed me http://www.ebay.ca/itm/NEW-Universal-RF-Unit-Adapter-SNES-NES-Sega-Genesis-1-3DO-TV-Game-Switch-/171838299831?hash=item28025c5eb7:g:BU0AAOxyBPZTiOFx I just noticed that automatic switch has the cord built in for the RF which means you would have to run it into the Atari though and I'm not sure how long the cord is by looking at it so it may or may not be a good option depending where you have your Atari placed.

Update: I just got around to composite modding the Rev 13 board. I did have a slightly higher output with this one to start off with using the 2.2k ohm and 3.3k ohm resistors. It was close to 400mVpp. Still my GPX TV would not recognize the signal. I swapped the 2.2k ohm as before to 4.7k ohm, then the 3.3k ohm to 6.8k ohm, and just as before my signal increased, this time to around 600mVpp and the GPX played this one fine as well just like it did the Rev 14 Atari after increasing the resistor values. I've seen several posts in the past blaming it on TV brand claiming cheap TVs are the problem. This is not the case, it isn't the TVs fault you aren't sending it a proper NTSC signal which is supposed to be around 1Vpp. The problem is the composite mod with the 2.2k ohm, 3.3k ohm, and 3904 transistor, not the TVs that have problems with it. The TVs are perfectly fine. I would later like to check the output of one of the other revision boards that have buffers on the outputs to see if there is a difference in those units with the mod as it comes but I do not have any at the moment but may get to it eventually.

I just realized you said you didn't clip the transistor and just removed and not talking about the resistor but yes you are correct that doesn't make any difference as far as whether you clipped or removed it totally and I thought you meant one of us replied that it did which it doesn't.

Have you tried like the other guy said yet though(just heat and lift one leg of the 75 ohm resistor because you may want to put it back in place) to see if it makes a difference? Also have you tried swapping the 2.2k ohm with the 1.5k ohm(it is located on the RF board you removed right beside the diode)? Or the other option I gave if you have the resistors to do so? EDIT: Another option you may try is to just leave the 2.2k in place and solder the one you removed that I thought you were talking about clipping earlier when you instead meant the transistor(R209 which is a 1.8k ohm) across the 2.2k ohm and will be like having a 1k ohm in its place with the two in parallel, just to see if that makes any difference(or just removing the 2.2k ohm and trying the 1.8k ohm in its place is another option to try).

not sure what you meant about clipping the lead or removing completely i don't think anyone was talking about that resistor(the one you removed from the main board). The other guy was talking about just clipping the 75ohm resistor which is added for impedance matching. I don't believe it is going to solve your problem but you can try it. When I was testing the video output on my scope I tried with and without the 75 ohm resistor and it made no difference I only had around 200mV peak to peak signal with the composite mod until I changed the two resistor values. A composite video signal should be 1V peak to peak and some TVs are not going to accept a much lower signal because the TVs are designed to see that 1V peak to peak and aren't even going to recognize it as a signal if it is way too low.

PS, Can you tell me what Rev # you have for your board. I believe it is either 14 or 15 just want to know which one for sure for something unrelated.

If you don't have a set of resistor values to choose from replace the 2.2k with the 1.5k from the RF board you removed(heard that tip from Osgeld he is very good at this stuff), that should work too and I'll show you link to post explaining it. Here is link to same problem http://atariage.com/forums/topic/265208-no-color-after-composite-mod/ And here is one I did showing problem with video signal being to low after composite mod. http://atariage.com/forums/topic/264563-no-picture-composite-mod/

Yeah someone else had similar issue and I had one of the exact same mod that wouldn't work on one of my TVs. I swapped out the 2.2k with a 4.7k ohm resistor and the 3.3k with a 6.8k ohm resistor and it solved the issue for me. Try it and see if it helps. The problem is that the video signal is to weak with the mod. Changing those values increases it.

Just a game, your life can't be that bad nobody cares that it double posted. I think some people have had success heating their labels with a hair dryer, then peeling the label so they can take it apart, then glue it back down.

NP. I would take another look though seriously at that cap. I could be wrong hard to tell for sure by the picture (may just look like it cause the angle seeing it from) but that 4.7uF cap could be leaking out onto the board.

I agree about the amp circuit Osgeld. I had similar issue but mine was a TV wouldn't even recognize the signal at all. One in living room did but not my other one. Video out was only 200mV peak to peak with the mod. Swapped out the 2.2k and 3.3k ohm for 4.7k and 6.8k and then it recognized the signal and played fine. Signal still not where I wanted it though as a video signal should be around 1V Peak to peak and I was getting 600mV after swapping the two resistors so not sure if there would still be compatibility issues with other TV sets. I tried changing just one resistor value didn't make any difference couldn't get above 600mV p-p due to colors started bleeding when I went higher resistance values. After playing with pots in place of the two resistors on mine while watching my oscilloscope I felt I had the highest signal and best looking picture when I just doubled both the resistor values. Anyways yeah that is probably a similar issue here as well, just maybe his TV isn't recognizing the color burst because the video output is too low but is able to see the rest, and by bypassing the 22pF cap it strengthened that part just enough for the amp to push out a little more for the TV to recognize it but wasn't smooth due to cap being bypassed but at least explains why he had good color(although not a smooth picture due to cap being bypassed) when he jumped the cap. Either way i agree with Osgeld on what the issue was. You could try changing the resistor values if you have them but I wouldn't go out and get them if Osgeld is already sending you something to replace the mod with. Glad you had fun working on it too.