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SignGuy81

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Posts posted by SignGuy81

  2. Posted

    There are a couple of ways to do more thorough testing but I'm not sure if you have the tools to do the tests. I didn't mention trying to adjust L1 yet because it might be fine and you need to be able to read the frequency to adjust it properly. That is another possibility though or even L1 or L2 could be open. You can check to see if you have +5V on the collector of Q4 and that should rule out an open inductor(still may need to adjust L1 however). Does your multimeter happen to have a frequency setting? It could also be a couple caps but I would first test Q4 to rule it out.

  3. Posted

    One more thing on the transistors in question Q4 and Q5. Q4 is 3563 which is an NPN transistor. And Q5 is 3906 which is a PNP transistor. Both have the pin arrangement emitter(1), base(2), collector(3). It is 1 thru 3 looking at the transistor facing the flat part.

  5. Posted · Edited by SignGuy81

    It looks like some of your data wires are at risk of crossing when moving the screen around. Insulation may have burnt away on them while you were soldering. This would all make perfect sense seeing that it was all working fine until you put everything back together that something crossed over and shorted out something. Also too a couple of the wires there are a little thick and generally if I'm soldering to just pads like that I like to clean the board and use hot glue on those spots but especially with those thicker wires to help prevent the pad ripping off while moving around, and also it can help prevent those naked spots of the wires at the end from crossing over and touching one another. Try tinning the wire first, and then adding solder to the pads, clipping off any excess wire of the wires you tinned, then soldering to the pads. Once done with all wires then run a bead of hot glue all the way down the edge to help prevent the wires from moving around and breaking pads. EDIT: For a good example of how the wires soldered to the pads should look go back and look at per's post #1224, and the rest of the pics as well it is very neat.

     

    Another thing I noticed as well were the data wires on the linx motherboard the orange wire looks like it has a loose strand at the end that could have bent over and shorted with another.

     

     

    Also too(although it is working) the backlight wire I see too much showing there. The wire is really too big for that whole and there is too much solder there around next to the ground plane. I'll add a pic below of a mod I did the brown wire is the backlight. Per as well in post #1224 used an alternate spot for the backlight.post-54455-0-36039100-1518570113.jpg

  10. Posted

    Hi,

     

    Looking to mod an Atari flashback 2 and need the Atari connector and cartridge guide. I think the ones from the 7800 are best right? (2600 angled?).

     

    If anyone has spare parts let me know. I'd pay paypal and am located in Houston TX, thanks.

     

     

     

     

    If it takes me too long to get to it and you happen to know anyone with a 3D printer just give them the files I posted above.

  11. Posted · Edited by SignGuy81

    Here is my STL files if anyone wants to 3D print them. I think I put the last updated file each on in the zip.

    04-08-17 outer guide.zip

     

     

    EDIT:

     

    Here is my source for card edge connectors I used.

     

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/10x-Industrial-Card-Edge-Slot-Socket-Connector-12x2P-24P-2-54mm-0-1-Right-Angle/131372015579?hash=item1e9661dfdb:g:~LgAAOSw0vBUiw4a

     

     

    The above was right angle(the type I used) but also if you need straight pins

     

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/10pc-Industrial-Card-Edge-Slot-Socket-Connector-12x2P-24P-2-54mm-0-1-3A-240-24/141614629265?hash=item20f8e3c191:g:e7MAAMXQiM5Q~oxi

     

     

     

    Anyone is welcome to use my files I don't care if you modify them or charge for the pieces or anything.

    • Like 1

  12. Posted · Edited by SignGuy81

    Update:

     

    I just found a high resolution pic found here https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/9a/Atari-5200-4-Port-Motherboard-Flat.jpg

     

    and was able to zoom in on the two diodes(CR7 and CR8) I had the question about and found that between the two it does split off and go to C10 so that answers my question so yes the dot was left off on the schematic or it didn't show up during copying.

     

    EDIT:

    I searched 2 port just realized it the pic I found was 4 port but that part is probably the same though I'm sure.

  13. Posted · Edited by SignGuy81

    I would take a look at all the solder joints around the circuit. Could possibly be a bad transistor such as Q4 or Q5. Maybe a bad ceramic cap in the circuit somewhere.

     

    I have a question too for anyone that may know this. I'm trying to figure out if this is an error in the schematic or if it is supposed to be like this, but my question is in regards to two diodes I was also going to ask him to take a look at CR8 and CR7(edited I accidentally typed 9 first) both appear to be in series with each other with nothing and no other connections in between. I'm not sure what the deal is there and why two are necessary. Did they leave out a dot where the two lines intersect to show a connection or do they overlap each other and not connect?

    • Like 1

  19. Posted · Edited by SignGuy81

    Thanks to a store getting robbed (I'm not sure which one), all game drawers where loose discs are stored behind the counter are now to be locked.....all 15-20 of them. Here's the issue, only the manager on staff has the drawer key. Combine the wait for any normal employee to get the key from the manager, drawers' labels only tell the employee which system it represents.. not what range of the alphabet it contains. This means that if an employee isn't sure which drawer the "L" section is in, they'll be having to slowly unlock, then re-lock, then unlock and repeat each drawer until they find the proper area.

     

     

    I can't stand any store at all that does this in general. For example there being a problem at a department store where something is ringing up the wrong price, but the item is clearly marked but the "employee" just can't simply fix it then. Instead they have to call over a "manager" and make everyone in line wait an additional ten minutes because they don't give "employees" the power to handle it themselves.

    • Like 1

  20. Posted

    You know you could go just bat poo crazy.

     

    Tap the power you need off the input from the Genny power supply. and then change our the audioslider with push button plus slide to turn the Bluetooth on or off. All components would be hidden inside and you would still have a nice clean unit.

     

    Please note I did not say this would be easy but possible I think so.

     

    Already planned on everything except the swapping out the audio slider with the push button idea. Shouldn't be too difficult really(unless you are a procrastinator like me).

    • Like 1

  24. Posted · Edited by SignGuy81

    Was wondering if anyone has tried this? I've seen a review but doesn't answer a question I have which is how can you play clue with your family with this game and keeping your clues secret if it is done on the game? And if you are supposed to jot them down on paper like the actual board game to me that would kinda defeat the purpose though to where you might as well still play the actual board game. That one game though is the reason I was thinking about getting it because I love that game.

     

    PS:

     

    Just thought something like this would be really good if all controllers were like the Wii U and everyone had there own independent touchscreens.

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