SignGuy81

Is this an AV modded or anything. Also have you tried on other TVs or just the projection TV?

To me the color looked spot on but the problem seemed more of a texture issue bumpiness int the paint where it wasn't smooth with the rest. Very close color match.

Also I meant to add I wouldn't be worried too much if Console5 were to pick them up they seem to offer very reasonable prices.

Yes, I as well seen the $4.99 BIN before it was posted. I got to looking on ebay after seeing the video. I thought it would be funny to post the $300 one. After Shawn posted the same $4.99 one CPUWIZ posted the statement(that I didn't catch the first time) on the $4.99 one about the recycling of them. I thought it was a good idea to contact them instead of them go to waste. However you never know though some sellers may list phrases like that to make you think something will be gone in a week so you think you have to buy it before it is gone but you never know which is why I contacted them.

I think your PC supply idea is great.

NP, glad I could help out. Easiest way too explain though I didn't think of earlier is to say for example you have a dual supply, +5V, and -5V, and a common ground. Say you have 2 leds and some resistors, one to monitor the +5V and the other the -5V. With one LED you tie the cathode to common, and the anode to a resistor then to +5V. The other LED you tie the anode to common, then the cathode to a resistor then to -5V. Well, if the -5V supply went unexpectedly lets just say for example to -15V and the LED burn out, we wouldn't say it burnt up from too low a voltage. It would actually burn up from too high current but you get what I mean though. EDIT: I should have clarified something above and said resistors figured up for max current with a 5V supply but I didn't mention that and didn't put a figure in because it can vary. You could still say the LED burnt up because the supply voltage was too high, but not because too high voltage across the LED as it would have been too high current as the voltage drop across the LED would be the same as the normal voltage drop, as the rest of the voltage would drop across the resistor. I probably should have just used bulbs for the example.

When referring to voltages in elecronics we would not say that -4.4V is higher voltage than -5V even though it is a higher number. The only thing that gives a voltage a negative polarity is because the positive was tied to common ground but it is still 5V of force no matter where the negative or positive is connected with respect to ground. If it was a typo and you meant a number different than -4.4V which would be too low a voltage, I understand, but either way I would fix the power supply issue before any other to get it right.

Any decent mod service you are going to be spending $200 on should take care of that issue for you as long as you tell them about it, and most I don't even think would charge to fix that as I know I wouldn't. PS: What are you having done to it?

I think the board has a lot of caps. Do you have an ESR meter? If not do any of the caps look bulged or is there any leakage around any of them?

My bad. Instead I would clean that up with a scotch pad and coat it with some solder and remove any excess.

I would buy a new pin connector on ebay they are around 7 or 8 bucks or so.

edit: NM Nice price though.

Just wanted to add where I thought it could be the Suzy because the input lines run to the Suzy chip, but also they split off and go to the game cart unlike for example the atari 2600, where they run to the TIA or RIOT chip and don't split off to go to the cart port. So thought I would add if anyone else experiences the same problem with directionals and A and B not working, and doesn't have other carts to test to try cleaning the cart first. The contacts didn't look too bad though on the cart but may have had some tape residue or something on a contact where it was packed not sure.

Final update. I actually had it working before the only problem was I needed to clean the contacts on the game I was testing it with which is why the controls weren't working. I had another unit here with a different game, and tested that game in both units it and it worked with all controls. Then I tried pit figther in the different unit and had the same problem a and b not working or directions. Retried it again in the other lynx still not working. Cleaned contacts on the game now it works on both lynxes. Sorry it took so long for the update but this was my first job working on a lynx so had no other carts to test with until just recently. I'll add some pics later. EDIT: Here are a few pics.

PMed

While searching for consoles on ebay I came across this https://www.ebay.com/itm/Officially-Licensed-Nintendo-Game-Boy-Money-Box-Piggy-Bank-Sealed-New-in-Box/323055821371?hash=item4b37a0a23b:g:SW4AAOSwZvRaeP-5 Never seen those before

I ordered one of the $4.99 adapters in the link originally posted by shawn(the one we wound up writing to let know about the plug compatibility with the 7800). Very fast shipping I think I ordered it on the 22nd and it is here today.

Replaced my test CRT TV today. Bought a Polaroid TV(I didn't even know they made TVs) at the Community Storehouse near me for $4.99 today. I like the CRTs with square corners much better than the kind I had which was more rounded. Plus the one I had also had scuff marks on it. EDIT: Also this one has 3 stereo AV inputs and the one I'm replacing it was just mono. Here is the new one

I think the reason they changed the way it is done at my dumps is because people would be rummaging through the actual garbage bins, picking out clothes and such. I used to see it all the time when I'd take my trash off. Now all of them have a guard and you can't take anything even the CRTs set up on the appliances platform.

I don't see why people would take stuff like that to the dump instead of Goodwill so other people could enjoy them. May be different though at your local dump but a few years back all the dumps in my county now have people watching them and you aren't allowed to pick up anything you see sitting.

I would ask Osgeld, http://atariage.com/forums/topic/275533-sold-4-switch-woody-promo-unit-with-av-stereo/ , as the picture on the ones he does looks amazing.

I have NES here http://atariage.com/forums/topic/274555-nes-for-sale-waccessories-games-70-plus-shipping/

Just wanted to check back and see how your project was going.

That is true about the $20 minimum order.

So do you have a switchbox hooked up and are you watching analog cable TV? Reason I'm asking is because it could be with the tuner inside the TV and you may not notice any issues if you are watching TV from a device that is hooked up to your other TVs inputs. Also about the switchbox if you are using one of those it may be possible it could be picking up interference and you would be better off getting an RCA to coax adapter.