rayik

Finally got around to making these. On one I inadvertently soldered the 9 pin connector to the wrong side of the pcb. Rather than remove it, I just put both on that side. I like the other one better with the connectors on the bottom of the pcb. (One is missing two red buttons. I have them on backorder rather than use white or black buttons) I'm going to mount them on laser cut acrylic with standoffs. I'll post pics when that is eventually done. Looking forward to trying them out this weekend. I'll use the test cart rom and post resistance values.

Got the PS2 port adapter board in. Connected one directly to Scott's pcb. Connected the other to dupont connector. I'm going to mount them on laser cut acrylic with standoffs. I'll post pics when that is eventually done. Looking forward to getting 5200 set up and trying them out

I've installed the Sophia mod with RGB output. Without doubt Sophia provides better clarity and more vibrant colors than svideo. Big but though. To use the Sophia rgb output you will need an rgb capable CRT or a device such as OSSC or Framemeister RGB mini to go to a modern flat panel. Sophia mod is easy to install

Tripletopper - I do not think you will find anyone to build them. if you did the price will most likely be high. My costs to build one adapter: Bare pcboard - $10 Parts from DigiKey - $45 Two 5200 cables from Console5 - $18 One PS1 cable from Console5 - $9 Total - $82 for parts + cost to build + cost to ship That's not including buying a case and figuring out how to put it in the case. In anticipation of two potential questions: 1) I am not for hire to build one 2) I will not sell the ones I've built

Got parts in yesterday. Will try to build this week and I'll test after that

Thanks john_q_atari for the breakout board links. I've ordered then along with 9-pin 0.100" female header (Digikey part #: S7042-ND). I also like the idea of not chopping up a cable. Not because of damaging the cable, but rather to avoid wiring it up wrong.

They were. No need to pay for them. Put on skunkboard or make your own cart.

PSU has screws on the bottom. My memory is there is one under a rubber pad. The 5200 PSU has a fuse inside it. If caps are blown, Console 5 has them: https://console5.com/store/kits/ps-caps.html?console_type_revision=85

I was using your instructions but did not read carefully enough when I installed the driver. I uninstalled everything including the driver. Then using your instructions reinstalled programs / driver but this time paying more attention to what I was reading. Thank you for the guide.

Thank you john_q_atari. I'm using Windows 10. Turns out I installed the wrong driver using Zadig. You must install libusbK and not Winusb (or let Windows automatically install a driver). Telling me you flashed the board without it energized helped save troubleshooting time. Flashed fine once correct driver installed.

I've followed DrVenkman's instructions here on programming: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/281530-my-homemade-5200-controller/?p=4130360 However the Tiny85 is not being detected. Do I need to have Scott's board powered by the Atari 5200 when trying to flash?

My mistake

Didn't know that key pass controller firing direction. It was not fun trying to play just using the touchpad only.

Vanguard. Its also twin stick.

I wish them luck and success. However I have no interest in this. I just have no interest in these emulator systems being marketed as remakes of classic systems. Remakes of classic carts or new games in the style of original games are not for me. If I want simple moderns games I can use my phone or tablet. But I do hope they are successful. For this interested, would you still be if "Intellivision" was removed from it?

I finally purchased a Hakko FR-301 desoldering iron. If you can afford it, I highly recommend you desolder using that rather than a Souldault. Including time learning to use the tool, it took me about 45 minutes to remove chips from 40 pcbs. You will save a lot of time and effort with the FR-301. It is so easy to use and does such a good job, I had a lot of chips just falling out from the pcb. Pics are example of how good it desolders.

Two assembled. I'll program tomorrow.

Just sent PayPal for 2 boards. More parts to order. I'm thinking of building these in a case. Thank you Scott

There are no lablels on the pcb for: C1, C2, C5 and C6 (0.22 uf) C3, C4, C7 and C8 (0.1 uf) Which caps go where> I watched the utube video in the first post to try to copy that. However there are only seven caps on that board and the layout is slightly different. I think I have it following the schematic but am not 100% sure. Thank you

Also, if you have 2 extra boards I'd appreciate a chance to make a couple.

Is there any way or need to adjust up/down and left/right resistance values? I built a 2600 to 5200 adaptor years ago. I can't find the source, but there are 2 pots for adjusting those values.

Thank you. One set just pre-ordered.

Received the 2 PCBs. I've ordered parts from DigiKey. Will post after making them.

If you have more, I would appreciate being able to get 1 or 2 (2 preferred) Thank you

I suggest a time out. Just forget this thread for a while. Its not even enjoyable to read anymore. In the big picture it does not matter who is right.