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rayik

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Posts posted by rayik

  5. Posted

    Sweet, it works. Really quiet compared to the RF out though, so not sure if the audio worked before, I could barely hear it before I turned it up.

    What do the two jumpers do? In your images it looks like they are both off, but I get a black screen if they are both off.

    I have an older of the Sophia. The jumpers are connecting the circuit so it is "on." Without the jumpers it does not work. It's my understanding the new boards do not have jumpers. Instead the board is just laid out so those two points are always "on."

     

    I also think there is a Sophia version that outputs to DVI instead of RGB.

  6. Posted

    Pulled the 5200 out of storage. Turns out I did tap the audio. The connector line runs to one leg of a 0.1 uf ceramic capacitor which is to a leg of a resister (no label). Photos are attached to show connection.

     

    This is a 4 port model and I also did the power mod to eliminate the need to use a switchbox. I like to drill as little holes as possible into the cases. Connectors were placed in the removable cover over the expansion port.

     

    IMG 4381

    IMG 4380

    IMG 4379

    IMG 4378

    IMG 4377

    IMG 4376

    IMG 4375(1)

  8. Posted

    Well, I think you guys can tell which one is which.

     

    But unfortunately I don't have audio working through the Sophia -> SCART -> OSSC -> HDMI -> TV connection.

     

    The picture with the OSSC is absolutely BRILLIANT though! Wow, like the colors just pop and make the RF look muddy as hell.

     

    Just need to figure out the audio bit, and I'll be golden!

    I'll open my modded 5200 and post pics when I'm back home in a couple of days.

     

    Picture is perfect! So much better than the old s-video mods.

  9. Posted

    When revisiting a ready topic you are taken to the first post of the page you select.

     

    Some other forums take you to the first unread post when revisiting a topic (such as Assembler games). Can feature be added? It would make keeping up on topics easier.

     

    Subscribing to a topic is not a good when looking at many topics as the update emails end up becoming spam like.

     

    Thank you for considering

  10. Posted

    WOW, Is that a Danny Galaga rapid fire kit? I know you can't get them any more. Can you tell us more about it? It looks like it has two rapid fire buttons "B" & "A" judging from the LEDs.

     

    I have one of Danny G's rapid fire kits installed. Its only one button that is rapid fire. I'll post some pics when I'm back home.

    • Like 1

  12. Posted

    I just looked at the install instructions Simius PM to me. Looks like it taps audio also from the GTIA. Here's what he told me:

     

    Installation goes the same way, as in other computers. Remove GTIA chip, put the additional socket, put Sophia board, put GTIA chip, connect the ribbon cable. That's all.

    Going to install in 5200. Same procedure?

    Yes.

    If you are not getting sound I'll pull my 5200 out of storage and post pics of the install.

  14. Posted

    I really need to dive back into my Inty RGB mod that I started & tried to install a while back. I have one of the retroRGB/Fred K. kits installed but something isn't working right and was never able to get it to display anything. I may have goofed up wiring up the mini DIN connector though, but I'll have to double check all my work.

    You might want too double check the wiring. I installed that kit and it works great.

    • Like 1

  15. Posted

    I need to find some more of the little mini capacitors for the c1 and c4 spots for 3 of the boards I have done. I am trying to find somewhere locally that carries them, but no luck so far.

    attachicon.gif20190120_035009.jpg

    I believe they are 1uf. Digikey sells 500 for $35.

     

    I'm not sure they are needed. I've made some carts without them and they seem to work. Do not know if there will be any negative long term effects

  17. Posted

    Is there an alternative to romsplit? All of my pcs are windows 64 bit and I cant get the program to run as it is 32 bit only. Currently I have most of my games already split (somebody gave me the the hi and lo files for 2 chip boards) but I would like to be able to split the files without having to share with somebody else.

    I could just get an older windows xp 32 bit laptop just for this, but I was hoping there may be another way.

    Thanks

    Use DosBox on your 64bit win machine. See here

    • Like 2

  18. Posted

    Ok, I gave it a go on my own, but never got more than the jag red screen of death. Do I understand that its fine to use M27C160? Is there anything special? I guess since I've done all the steps, I'm not sure which of the steps I've messed up.

    Is there anyone that can give me a set of hi/lo that are tested, just so I can confirm I'm STARTING with something good? I cut up a raiden rom, since I own several copies, I figure I'm good to do what I want for non commercial reasons

    I'm really tired of soldering and unsoldering. I need to find zif sockets for these! Has anyone done that?

     

    I'd recommend you socket at least one board. After burning ROMs use the socketed board to make sure they work before you solder them in. I also found that a small percentage of boards are just bad.

  21. Posted

    Rayik, I'm still concerned that you're getting a low value when the IC is not installed. Can you triple-check that the 10M resistor is 10M (and not, for example, 10K which is a similar color code) and that the diode polarity is correct?

     

    Scott

     

    All resisters are correct values. I just double checked with digikeys resitor five band color calculator

     

    The diodes I used were 1N4148TR (Digikey part #: 1N418FSCT-ND) I also bought 1N4148TR (Digikey part #: 1N4148FSCT-ND) but don't know if swapping them out will make a try.

     

    I do have a couple of other 5200s. However we have only modern flat panels and there is no way to connect them to see the video. (The one I'm testing with has a Sophia rgb adapter installed and connects to hdtv through OSSC)

     

    I did try doubling up the .11uf capacitor as suggested by Swami and that had no effect.

     

    At this point I don't know what to do.

  22. Posted

    Still not working, but getting there.

     

    Turns out I forgot to install the 0.1 uf capacitor on both boards. Installing them still gives a "stuck" controller but I can change directions by moving the stick. When I get time I'll play with the pots. Values "at rest" with cap installed is 24 and 24 for both adapters with all pots set at 265K resistance.

  23. Posted

    From my notes earlier, with the power off and the IC removed, using the two-pin pads adjacent to each pot, I measured 265K on the top one and 263K on the bottom one (the difference between 265K and 263K is probably not significant).

     

    So I would start by verifying your pots are in the ballpark of those values. If that still doesn't get performance within reasonable limits, can you use a traditional controller on port 1 of the 5200, and the masterplay clone on port 2, to navigate into Pete's test cartridge? I don't have an atarimax, so I'm not entirely sure how the menu system works.

     

    Scott

     

     

    Adjusted posts to 265K. (All 4 were at 475K initially).

     

    Did not work

     

    Got Pete's test cart running on AtariMax using your instructions. Values show extreme left and extreme up on each adapter. interestingly values were the same for the two even though I forgot to reinsert the DG413DHZ in one of the adapters.

     

    IMG 4204

    IMG 4203

    Value is 9 9. (Cannot get photos to post correct. Either upside down or rotated left)
    I checked all the resisters with a multimeter whle I had the DG413DHZ out. They were what is on the BOM.
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