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rayik

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Posts posted by rayik

  1. Posted

    Mounted the boards on laser cut acrylic with rubber feet on the bottom. I really like how they came out

     

    @smbaker, john_q_atari and DrVenkman - I have extra cut acrylics. PM me if you want me to send you 1 or 2 at no cost to you (I'll pay postage)

     

     

    IMG 4183

    IMG 4184

    IMG 4185 Copy

    IMG 4186

    IMG 4187 Copy

    • Like 1

  2. Posted

    Mounted the boards on laser cut acrylic with rubber feet on the bottom. I really like how they came out

     

    @smbaker, john_q_atari and DrVenkman - I have extra cut acrylics. PM me if you want me to send you 1 or 2 at no cost to you (I'll pay postage)

     

    IMG 4177

    IMG 4179

    IMG 4180

    IMG 4189

     

    • Like 2

  5. Posted

    I was lucky enough to get one of danny galaga's rapid fire kits. Rapid fire is nice to have but as this thread shows, not many games benefit from it. More of a novelty than something that will be used often.

  7. Posted

    smbaker: I load Pete's test cartridge through an Atarimax SD cart. Since the joystick is stuck left I can not select any cartridge to load. If anyone wants to loan me a repro Pete's test cart I'll use it to troubleshoot and return when done.

     

    I'll double check that I used right resister values on PCB.

     

    I have a multimeter and can check resistance. What values should I see and where? Would that be with PCB energized? What values should I set trim pots to?

     

    I appreciate your designing this and making PCBs available.

  8. Posted

    I saw Rayik has homemade a device which takes Sega controllers

     

    Rayik used the Competition Pro as a basis for his design, employing an external 5200 controller for the 15 keypad buttons and the centering of the stick.

     

     

    If if you don't want to make it, is there a place where these plans are posted?

    I did not create or design the device. I followed the plans in Section 6.3 of the Atari 5200 FAQ posted on Atariage.com.. It is a Masterplay clone.

     

    Genesis controller will not work with that adapter. I rewired the internals of the genesis controller. All that works are UP, DOWN, LEFT, RIGHT and BUTTON B.

  9. Posted

    For my ps2 controller, the value that "center" returns to after you release the thumbstick from pointing in a direction varies a bit. It doesn't really return to the exact same value each time and that value it returns to moves around a little. That said I haven't really used my adapters on anything other than robotron yet. I love using my adapter on robotron.

    Same here. "Center" value varies a bit each time you release the thumbstick.

     

    As is, its really great on Robotron. Very much enjoying that game with the PS2 controller.

  10. Posted

    I tried them out and neither one works for me.

     

    Both jumpers at JP1 are jumped.

     

    Buttons (keypad / start / pause / reset) work fine.

     

    Using Atarimax SD cart there is a continious clicking sound as if the joystick is pressed in one direction.

     

    Using real cart, the joystick is stuck with left activated.

     

    Its the same on both adapters I made.

  11. Posted

    Got a chance to try them out and they work !! it was fun playing Robotron with a PS2 dualstick.

     

    Couple of observations:

     

    1) PS2 adapter takes a while to have working thumbsticks.

    2) PS2 adapter stops working properly if cable to 5200 is disconnected. Cord to 5200 is easily dislodged from PS2 adapter. Will make connector as Scott did

     

    3) Biggest - some diagonal directions seem to be hard to do. It varies which direction. Using Pete's test cart, it appears the thumbstick at "rest" is not centered. Moving the thumbstick will result in a different "rest" setting but still not centered. I do not know how to change the programming to change "rest"' resistence value. Good example is Berzerk. For some diagonals have to push in full direction (and seemingly hold it there).

     

    Attached photos show:

     

    PS2 adapter connected and working !!!

    Pete's test cart screens with PS2 adapter showing: non-centered dots and their numerical values

    Homemade digitial stick adapter I made about 20 years ago. (Pots on top for adjusting H and V, button for Start, extra connector for connecting 5200 stick for keypad / pause / reset)

    Pete's test cart screens showing centered dots and their numerical values .

     

    This is a great adapter Scott has made. Not all games rely on diagonals so it's not an issue in all games. It's a blast playing Robotron with the PS2 pad. It's is really great for most games. I don't know if at rest values needs to be tweaked or if there is just variances with different PS2 pad.

     

    Thank you Scott.

    post-5453-0-89683800-1542572405_thumb.jpg

    post-5453-0-88773000-1542572454_thumb.jpg

    post-5453-0-95324700-1542572467_thumb.jpg

    post-5453-0-53327600-1542572483_thumb.jpg

    post-5453-0-04902000-1542572494_thumb.jpg

    post-5453-0-63327600-1542572505_thumb.jpg

  13. Posted

    rayik,

     

    Whatever you do, don't solder those support posts on those connectors. There is still hope otherwise if you can remove all of the solder on the pins and extract the connectors from the board. It's going to be tough though. I wish you luck. I never had much luck when it came to desoldering things. Maybe you can use hot air if you have trouble desoldering the connectors.

    I did not solder the support posts, only the pins. I'm not worried about desoldering. I've got a Hakko FR-301 which will make easy work of it.

     

    Scott - thank you. Its obvious it will not work and I should have realized that right away.

  14. Posted

    Finally got around to making these. On one I inadvertently soldered the 9 pin connector to the wrong side of the pcb. Rather than remove it, I just put both on that side. I like the other one better with the connectors on the bottom of the pcb. (One is missing two red buttons. I have them on backorder rather than use white or black buttons)

     

    I'm going to mount them on laser cut acrylic with standoffs. I'll post pics when that is eventually done.

     

    Looking forward to trying them out this weekend. I'll use the test cart rom and post resistance values.

    post-5453-0-65103800-1542340973_thumb.jpg

    post-5453-0-81722200-1542340984_thumb.jpg

  15. Posted

    Got the PS2 port adapter board in. Connected one directly to Scott's pcb. Connected the other to dupont connector.

     

    I'm going to mount them on laser cut acrylic with standoffs. I'll post pics when that is eventually done.

     

    Looking forward to getting 5200 set up and trying them out

    post-5453-0-88634100-1542340861_thumb.jpg

    post-5453-0-39186500-1542340878_thumb.jpg

    • Like 1

  16. Posted

    So has the Sophia been tested with this? I just ordered one and am curious. Also, I always wondered why the 5200 got a VCS adapter, but the 8bit computers did not. Granted I always thought it weird that the 5200 didn't also support the A8 cartridges that were already out there..

    I've installed the Sophia mod with RGB output. Without doubt Sophia provides better clarity and more vibrant colors than svideo. Big but though. To use the Sophia rgb output you will need an rgb capable CRT or a device such as OSSC or Framemeister RGB mini to go to a modern flat panel.

     

    Sophia mod is easy to install

  17. Posted

    Tripletopper - I do not think you will find anyone to build them. if you did the price will most likely be high.

     

    My costs to build one adapter:

     

    Bare pcboard - $10

    Parts from DigiKey - $45

    Two 5200 cables from Console5 - $18

    One PS1 cable from Console5 - $9

     

    Total - $82 for parts + cost to build + cost to ship

     

    That's not including buying a case and figuring out how to put it in the case.

     

    In anticipation of two potential questions:

     

    1) I am not for hire to build one

    2) I will not sell the ones I've built

  18. Posted

    Well, I measured the capacitance of the one cap used in the build (for each board), and I measured each resistor as I pulled it off the tape to set aside to build each board. I'm not a COMPLETE idiot, here - I did build a working 1088XEL computer from a bare board and components, after all. :P

     

    I sure wish some others would build their boards and post pics/results.

     

    Got parts in yesterday. Will try to build this week and I'll test after that

  19. Posted

    By far the most difficult and time consuming part of building this adapter for me has been the PS2 cable. The ones I purchased had fine wires (very small diameter) that didn't connect well to the dupont connectors. In the end I had to solder the cable to the board and secure the cable to the backplate I mounted the PCB to to avoid putting any tension on the wire/solder connections I had made. I saw at some point in the past, and I can't find it now, that someone, somewhere on the web was selling an adapter cable that had a female playstation controller connection on one end, and female dupont style connectors on the other end. If anyone can find it please post it here and I highly suggest people use that instead of trying to build their own.

     

    I did find things like this:

     

    https://www.robotshop.com/en/ps2-connector-breakout-board.html

     

    and this:

    https://www.robotshop.com/en/cytron-breakout-board-ps2-connector.html

     

    and this:

    https://www.robotshop.com/en/ps2-connector.html

     

    Perhaps Scott you could do a future board revision where you can directly solder the last connector to the board. It would make assembly of the bare board SO MUCH EASIER.

     

    Or if people haven't build the cable/attachment part of their adapters yet, they could consider wiring up one of the devices I listed above (or others like it) and perhaps make their lives easier. One example would be to purchase the last adapter, hack the end off of a 9 or 10 pin pre-built dupont female to whatever gender connector, and solder the wires from the hacked off end to the connector. Just a thought.

     

     

    Looks good, Rayik.

     

    In other news, I received my robotshop connectors and breakout board today. Here's a couple pictures. The first shows the breakout board, together with a 9-pin 0.100" female header (header is NOT supplied; you'd have to get one of your own)

     

    attachicon.gifps2connector.jpg

     

    Second picture shows the robotshop breakboard with 0.100" female header soldered to it, and then plugged into the 5200-ps2 adapter.

     

    attachicon.gif5200-ps2-with-breakout.JPG

     

    An alternative to using the female header would be to solder the breakout board to the 5200-PS2 adapter's male header directly, though much more difficult to ever take it apart if you want to.

     

    I like this solution better than hacking up a PS2 extension cable, thanks john_q_atari for the links.

     

    Scott

     

    Thanks john_q_atari for the breakout board links. I've ordered then along with 9-pin 0.100" female header (Digikey part #: S7042-ND).

     

    I also like the idea of not chopping up a cable. Not because of damaging the cable, but rather to avoid wiring it up wrong.

    • Like 2

  22. Posted

     

    As I stated in step 5 of the How To I posted in the other thread … ;)

     

     

    I was using your instructions but did not read carefully enough when I installed the driver.

     

    I uninstalled everything including the driver. Then using your instructions reinstalled programs / driver but this time paying more attention to what I was reading.

     

    Thank you for the guide.

    • Like 1

  23. Posted

     

    No. I was able to flash the board with only the 6pin header connected to my programmer. (I used a different programmer, the stk500, but that shouldn't matter).

     

     

    Thank you john_q_atari.

     

    I'm using Windows 10. Turns out I installed the wrong driver using Zadig. You must install libusbK and not Winusb (or let Windows automatically install a driver). Telling me you flashed the board without it energized helped save troubleshooting time.

     

    Flashed fine once correct driver installed.

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