rayik

Mounted the boards on laser cut acrylic with rubber feet on the bottom. I really like how they came out @smbaker, john_q_atari and DrVenkman - I have extra cut acrylics. PM me if you want me to send you 1 or 2 at no cost to you (I'll pay postage)

Mounted the boards on laser cut acrylic with rubber feet on the bottom. I really like how they came out @smbaker, john_q_atari and DrVenkman - I have extra cut acrylics. PM me if you want me to send you 1 or 2 at no cost to you (I'll pay postage)

I'm going to smbaker's suggestion of plugging stock control in port 1 and ps2 adapter in port 2. I was getting the same stuck left on regular carts.

Actually, what I linked in post above is not the plans I followed. I don't know what they were or where they can be found.

I was lucky enough to get one of danny galaga's rapid fire kits. Rapid fire is nice to have but as this thread shows, not many games benefit from it. More of a novelty than something that will be used often.

Received two in the mail today. Very nice quality. Heavy just like the originals. If you end up with extras, I'd appreciate if you post that here. I'll buy a couple more but since I have 2 I don't want to keep someone from not getting any. Thank you for making these !

smbaker: I load Pete's test cartridge through an Atarimax SD cart. Since the joystick is stuck left I can not select any cartridge to load. If anyone wants to loan me a repro Pete's test cart I'll use it to troubleshoot and return when done. I'll double check that I used right resister values on PCB. I have a multimeter and can check resistance. What values should I see and where? Would that be with PCB energized? What values should I set trim pots to? I appreciate your designing this and making PCBs available.

I did not create or design the device. I followed the plans in Section 6.3 of the Atari 5200 FAQ posted on Atariage.com.. It is a Masterplay clone. Genesis controller will not work with that adapter. I rewired the internals of the genesis controller. All that works are UP, DOWN, LEFT, RIGHT and BUTTON B.

Same here. "Center" value varies a bit each time you release the thumbstick. As is, its really great on Robotron. Very much enjoying that game with the PS2 controller.

I tried them out and neither one works for me. Both jumpers at JP1 are jumped. Buttons (keypad / start / pause / reset) work fine. Using Atarimax SD cart there is a continious clicking sound as if the joystick is pressed in one direction. Using real cart, the joystick is stuck with left activated. Its the same on both adapters I made.

Got a chance to try them out and they work !! it was fun playing Robotron with a PS2 dualstick. Couple of observations: 1) PS2 adapter takes a while to have working thumbsticks. 2) PS2 adapter stops working properly if cable to 5200 is disconnected. Cord to 5200 is easily dislodged from PS2 adapter. Will make connector as Scott did 3) Biggest - some diagonal directions seem to be hard to do. It varies which direction. Using Pete's test cart, it appears the thumbstick at "rest" is not centered. Moving the thumbstick will result in a different "rest" setting but still not centered. I do not know how to change the programming to change "rest"' resistence value. Good example is Berzerk. For some diagonals have to push in full direction (and seemingly hold it there). Attached photos show: PS2 adapter connected and working !!! Pete's test cart screens with PS2 adapter showing: non-centered dots and their numerical values Homemade digitial stick adapter I made about 20 years ago. (Pots on top for adjusting H and V, button for Start, extra connector for connecting 5200 stick for keypad / pause / reset) Pete's test cart screens showing centered dots and their numerical values . This is a great adapter Scott has made. Not all games rely on diagonals so it's not an issue in all games. It's a blast playing Robotron with the PS2 pad. It's is really great for most games. I don't know if at rest values needs to be tweaked or if there is just variances with different PS2 pad. Thank you Scott.

Took about 2 minutes to remove both using the Hakko FR-301. It's good to have the right tools. Will try to find time this weekend to test these out.

I did not solder the support posts, only the pins. I'm not worried about desoldering. I've got a Hakko FR-301 which will make easy work of it. Scott - thank you. Its obvious it will not work and I should have realized that right away.

Finally got around to making these. On one I inadvertently soldered the 9 pin connector to the wrong side of the pcb. Rather than remove it, I just put both on that side. I like the other one better with the connectors on the bottom of the pcb. (One is missing two red buttons. I have them on backorder rather than use white or black buttons) I'm going to mount them on laser cut acrylic with standoffs. I'll post pics when that is eventually done. Looking forward to trying them out this weekend. I'll use the test cart rom and post resistance values.

Got the PS2 port adapter board in. Connected one directly to Scott's pcb. Connected the other to dupont connector. I'm going to mount them on laser cut acrylic with standoffs. I'll post pics when that is eventually done. Looking forward to getting 5200 set up and trying them out

I've installed the Sophia mod with RGB output. Without doubt Sophia provides better clarity and more vibrant colors than svideo. Big but though. To use the Sophia rgb output you will need an rgb capable CRT or a device such as OSSC or Framemeister RGB mini to go to a modern flat panel. Sophia mod is easy to install

Tripletopper - I do not think you will find anyone to build them. if you did the price will most likely be high. My costs to build one adapter: Bare pcboard - $10 Parts from DigiKey - $45 Two 5200 cables from Console5 - $18 One PS1 cable from Console5 - $9 Total - $82 for parts + cost to build + cost to ship That's not including buying a case and figuring out how to put it in the case. In anticipation of two potential questions: 1) I am not for hire to build one 2) I will not sell the ones I've built

Got parts in yesterday. Will try to build this week and I'll test after that

Thanks john_q_atari for the breakout board links. I've ordered then along with 9-pin 0.100" female header (Digikey part #: S7042-ND). I also like the idea of not chopping up a cable. Not because of damaging the cable, but rather to avoid wiring it up wrong.

They were. No need to pay for them. Put on skunkboard or make your own cart.

PSU has screws on the bottom. My memory is there is one under a rubber pad. The 5200 PSU has a fuse inside it. If caps are blown, Console 5 has them: https://console5.com/store/kits/ps-caps.html?console_type_revision=85

I was using your instructions but did not read carefully enough when I installed the driver. I uninstalled everything including the driver. Then using your instructions reinstalled programs / driver but this time paying more attention to what I was reading. Thank you for the guide.

Thank you john_q_atari. I'm using Windows 10. Turns out I installed the wrong driver using Zadig. You must install libusbK and not Winusb (or let Windows automatically install a driver). Telling me you flashed the board without it energized helped save troubleshooting time. Flashed fine once correct driver installed.

I've followed DrVenkman's instructions here on programming: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/281530-my-homemade-5200-controller/?p=4130360 However the Tiny85 is not being detected. Do I need to have Scott's board powered by the Atari 5200 when trying to flash?