Jump to content

Blinky

Members
  • Content Count

    100
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Blinky


  1. If the software on the linker/programmer improves then this might be one of the cheapest dumpers around. But some of the bankswitching shemes are really pretty complex.

     

    Dumping any other roms then standard 4K ROMs and MDM (flash)carts > 256K wil be something to look into later.

     

    Update:

    I've attached the sketch for an Arduino Mega and python scripts needed for dumping and flashing the MDM (flash)cart.

     

    If your new to Arduino and /or python you need also the following:

     

    Install Arduino IDE https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software

    Install Python 2.7 from https://www.python.org/

    Install Pyserial https://pypi.python.org/pypi/pyserial

     

    The Arduino MDM-Linker has a few built in test functions for troubleshooting/testing:

    • i - show cart info
    • n - flash Vader vs Luke NTSC ROM
    • p - flash Vader vs Luke PAL ROM
    • b - select bank 0
    • bXX - select bank XX
    • d - dump currently selected 4K bank to monitor
    • dXX - dump 4K bank XX to monitor

    To dump or flash rom files you need to run the python script from the command line

     

    For dumping:

    • mdm-linker.py -r serialPort startBank numberOfBanks romFilename

    For Flashing:

    • mdm-linker.py -w serialPort startBank romFilename

     

    Next up will be working on the menu.


  2. Update: Well it's no longer a concept Idea but a working design :D

     

    Instead of using an Arduino Uno I decided to use my Arduino Mega I had lying around and purchased a proto shield for it. It has more I/O ports then the Uno so it's easier to develop the flash linker on and it's also a bit less soldering since no latch chip is required (I'll probably make Uno version later when I've recieved the parts. It takes 60 days for them) I also used the connector from my dead Vader 2600 including the cart mount.

     

    Basically the flash linker is nothing more than an Arduino + proto shield + 24 pin Card edge connector and some wire to wire the connector to the proto shield. I've attached some pictures including the wiring I used. I still need to improve the Arduino coding and will write a python script to send roms to the linker so those are not attached yet.

     

    To test the flashing function, I embedded my Vader vs Luke rom hack into the arduino source so I could program the cart. It's great to play it on real hardware again :)

     

    post-5461-0-35697200-1442770465_thumb.jpg

    post-5461-0-81842000-1442770480_thumb.jpg

    post-5461-0-24566000-1442770511_thumb.jpg

    post-5461-0-23620200-1442770525_thumb.jpg

    post-5461-0-74986300-1442770543_thumb.jpg

    post-5461-0-55827800-1442770553_thumb.png

    • Like 2

  3. Thanks to DrWho198 I'm tinkering with my atari 2600 again :) After he sent me one of his PCBs (Thanks again :) ). His PCB is pretty good. But I wanted to add one of these cool 'pixel' pushbuttons I have lying around so I had to cut of part of the PCB off to make space for the button then after having no sockets lying around and also realizing that there is no space to mount a EPROM on a socket. I wondered If I couldn't use a 5V FLASH chip that can be reprogrammed through the carts connector. So there I went again making some more modifications to the PCB.

    All it needs are a few modifications to the PCB and a DPDT (Double Pole Double Throw) switch to turn it into an el cheapo flash cart :D

     

    I've attached a new schematic for the new design. The cart uses a 256Kbyte FLASH chip that can be reprogrammed at 5V. The switch selects the carts mode. In Normal play mode. The cart is pretty much the same as the MDM cart (except that BA18 must now always be 0) and in Program mode BA18 and BA19 are used to program the cart.

     

    For the programmer I'm planning to solder a card edge connector and a latch chip to an arduino proto shield so it can be be connected to basic arduino(uno). By using these parts the programmer will probably cost not more than $10. Time to order some parts now!

     

    to be continued.

     

     

     

     

    post-5461-0-69965700-1442169234_thumb.gif

    post-5461-0-50056100-1442169303_thumb.jpg

    post-5461-0-87369500-1442169339_thumb.jpg

    post-5461-0-49014600-1442169355_thumb.jpg

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1

  4. DrWho198 sugested changing the address range to $X800-$XBFF as there are some games (like battle zone) that won't work properly with the original addressing. Attached is a a revision that uses the $X800-$XBFF address range. Like in the previous design the top 128 banks will lock the address latch to protect from unwanted bankswitching. If you don't wan't this protection and have all 256 banks unprotected you can leave out the 1N4148 diode. In that case you can also replace the 1K resistor with a wire bridge to save on parts :P

     

     

    post-5461-0-64994200-1413382572_thumb.gif


  5. Nice to see you're interested in my MDMC project DrWho198 and I'm very pleased to read support for it has been added to stella :D

    I just don't seem to find the time to pick up this project again so It's nice to see someone continuing the idea.

     

    I've attached the assembly source of the menu. menu5.asm is the one used in the menu iirc. the menu is 512 bytes and the remaining data is for bitmapped menu items.

    There are some variables you can set to vary the number of scanlines per title, the number of total menu items in the menu and the number of items on a single menu page and colors. Maybe it will be some use to you or may give you a nice idea

     

    multimenu.zip


  6. Hi All!

     

    I was just checking AA out again and noticed the recent posts. It's nice to see someone interested again in my project :) It's been years!. I didn't continue with the project after I had a system crash and thought I lost all my projects and moved on to other interests. But last year I did find a backup which contained the project :D

     

    Dangelte great to see you've draw up a physical version as you call it. Unfortunately I don't have the time to check your schematic. But I've attached the original schematics and roms so I hope they are helpfull. I love to pick up the project again. But I'm too focused on Adventure Vision currently so It be a while.

     

    About the attachments.

     

    I've attached the schematic of the original 8 in 1 concept with PAL and a hacked NTSC version. I've also attached the Mega schematic version which supports up to 255 roms (4K roms only) when a 1 Mbyte EPROM is used and still supports 32K/64K/128K EPROMs through a jumper. The menu rom does not work yet with the later though.

    when I find the time I will come up with some addresses so you can hack the menu to choose any combination of 2k/4K roms. Bit hacker can be used to 'draw' the titles in the roms. like I show in the clip below. I made that clip for someone in brazil that rebuilded my project. You can check out his site at http://spaceinvader....cart_w_menu.htm

     

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xj4xmcD7rVs

    post-5461-0-67336700-1367623117_thumb.gif

    post-5461-0-61286900-1367623124_thumb.gif

    mmc-8-in-1(ntsc).zip

    mmc-8-in-1(pal).zip


  7. Whats up with your cool Xin1 Cart ?

    finished ? or freezed ?

     

    I didn't spent much time on Atari lately so things are getting along a bit slow. The project is still alive and the design has completely changed now into a new design. The Menu Driven Mega Cart.

     

    More recently I thought that for larger ROMs a 2K bank mode is not that important and by removing it. I got a few bits and gates to work with. So I did a redesign and ended up with another two chip design (with less passive components) that can support a 1Mbyte ROM.

     

    The addressing scheme is the same as before. Any read (or write if you want) in the $0800-$0FFF range will latch the least significant byte of the address (A0-A7) so there are 256 banks of 4K that can be selected.

     

    As before There is also a lockout mechanism. But it is now activated when one of the higher banks (128 to 255) is selected. The lower banks 0 -127 leave the bankswitching enabled.

     

    I've also added a Menu button in the design. All it takes is a pushbutton and some special code in the 1st 4K bank as described earlier.

     

    Heres the new schematic:

     

    MegaCartSchematic.gif

     

    I have not yet build, tested andwritten any code for it. Because I'm also working out another crazy idea of mine. A Flash Cart that is programmed in cuircuit by the Atari 2600 itself with again a minimum of standard components. But I'm not sure if this idea will work.


  8. One problem I'm having though. I don't know how to recreate the conditions in the pic above so that the whole E.T. face shows up like that. No matter what I try, it never even looks close to that full picture.

     

    Have you tried the example in the readme.txt that comes with bithacker ?

    If so maybe you have a different rom then I used. PM me the rom and I'll have a go on getting the addresses.


  9. Odd how they would incorporate what appears to be pac-man.

     

    I think its a hack because of the Middle finger ?,Smiley and Pacman looks a little out of place (unless the programmer fancied a PacMan who Loves to give the finger and be happy about it :) :roll: ).

     

     

    The floppy disc is from a Polish friend of mine who use to live in southern Poland and in Germany. This is why I would gravitate towards this being a European release.

     

    There many NTSC carts over here. I think that many carts where Imported from the states because they where much cheaper. Just like it is today.

     

    I think only your Polish friend can tell the source of it.


  10. There's No ROM for download at that link. Wrong Link?

     

    Just Ignore this line of the previous post.

     

    Had a look with Bithacker on those differences and they're graphical changes. Maybe its a hack ?

     

    Have a look at the differences at the attached gif image.

    post-5461-1097881173_thumb.jpg


  11. I believe this ROM to be the European release "Astrowar."

     

    It's not PAL if you mean. Running it with Z26 told me it has 265 scanlines.

    Comparing your binary with Astrowar_(Starsoft).bin (NTSC) it has 28 differences close to the end of the ROM. No visible changes in color too.

     

    So I think it is safe to say it's a NTSC rom

     

    That's because you're looking at NTSC only.  Have a look at this:

     

    http://www.atariage.com/software_page.html...areLabelID=2027

     

    :)

     

    There's No ROM for download at that link. Wrong Link?


  12. Are you sure you're using the right adapter?. Looking at that picture I'd say its a 2.5mm jack instead of 3.5mm one (sorry I'm european). Try compare the plug with one of some headphones when you have one lying around. The plug should be of the same size.

     

    The adapter should also be DC 9V, 500mA, Center tip positive (-) --C-- (+).


  13. It's probably because of the cpld but I was getting occasional spurious bank switches.  I ended up making a seperate lock register, that required 7 bits to be written correctly before it would unlock.

     

    I think The spurious behaviour is caused at the begining and end at a addressing cycle when the address lines are not yet stabelized causing multiple addressings. the capacitor solves it for the cart design. But a different design I did a while ago for a homecomputer which had simmular problems I used a transparent latch to solve the problem. One delayed signal in the address decoding controled the latch and would keep the other signals stable during the address decoding. Maybe something like this could be done with your pld.

     

    The timing on the write line is a problem.

     

    I haven't looked into it much. But I'd say delay the decoding by

    two different (RC) delays and mix them together to get a write strobe.

    The cpu datasheet may help in getting the right timings.

     

    BTW, I can do your boards for ~$6 but I'd have to order 50.  If you just want a prototype I can probably work it into the next panel I'm doing for a reasonable cost.

     

    I'm interrested in a prototype. I don't know how much space there is on your board but i'm looking for a PCB that can fit the 3 DIP size ICs and a 32pin EPROM socket (273 can be put inside socket) and fits into an existing cartridge something simmular to a 32-in-1 PCB but then witout the 'T' flaps.


  14. Maybe I'm not understanding you.  On my multipacs I hook the reset on the 273 to the reset line of the cpu and then to a button.

     

    My cart design is for the 2600 which does not have a reset line on the cart connector.

     

     I didn't worry about it in this case since just toggling the power switch works.

     

    It works, But those powerswitches will have a shorter live span with a lot of toggling. Having only JRs with poor powerswitches. I like the idea of a button on the cart.

     

    This design is pretty much like mine.  I had some occasional glitches in the  banking and ended up changing mine to a write instead of a read.

     

    I find reading easier, maybe because I'm using no PLDs. Reading does have the advantage of having more addresslines available for the latches.

     

    IIRC I'm using similar addresses but only the lower half x00-x7f.  Mine has 16 bits of registers to handle different bank switching schemes.  I'm using a xilinx cpld for the logic.  I have 2 ttl chips to try get the timing right on the banking and the ram chip.

     

    Nice. How are you addressing the 16 bits registers? multiplexing ? I noticed (having a look at that auction) that there is a SARA superchip

    do you use part of its bankswitching logic or only with the PLD ?


  15. My $20 package from Best Elec that had my .29 cent 4050 chip in it is lost!?

     

    What a bummer :sad:

     

    Maybe the hurricane has something to do with it. USPS does work for me (even surface mail) and I hope it stays that way in the future.

     

    I'll see if I can find a 4050 for you, when I find one I'll send it to you together with a socket.


  16. :idea: Tip: Write a small batch file which changes the directory (e.g CD C:z26") and then starts z26.exe, put it into the same directory and link the extension to the batch file instead. Then the screenshots should be in the z26.exe directory.

     

    Another way is to make a shortcut to the batchfile and associate the shortcut (PIF) with .bin and .a26 files and set the shortcuts properties to use the Z26 directory and closewindow checked (no CD C:.. needed in batchfile).

     

    Here is a quick how to.

     

    Create batchfile and shortcut

    A batchfile and shortcut are needed to make sure Z26 will always startup using the Z26 directory.

    run notepad or any other texteditor and copy or type following line:
    Z26.EXE "%1"

    Select the save (or save as...) menu option and browse to the Z26 directory.

    enter z26.bat in filename box.

    Set file extension type to all files (*.*). Otherwise file will be saved as z26.bat.txt which will not work.

    Click save button to save the batchfile.

    Select save as... menuoption. It should open in the z26 directory showing the z26.bat batchfile. Right click above the batchfile and choose properties from the popup menu.

    Click the Program tabsheet.

    In the top editbox enter Z26 Atari 2600 Emulator for title

    In the working directory editbox enter the z26 directory (the same as at command but without the z26.bat).

    Check close window checkbox and Click OK button so a shortcut to z26.bat is created.

    Associate .bin with Z26

     

    If .bin files are not yet associated with anything then just double click a .bin file and

    windows will ask which program you want to open it with. In this case continue with the following:

    Click on the other button and browse to the z26 directory.

    doubleclick the Z26 shortcut.

    Make sure the 'always open with...' checkbox is checked and click OK button.

     

    Z26 should now ztart the bin file. Hit ESCape key and try another doubleclicking another .bin file.

     

    Changing .bin file association

    When .bin files where already associated and you wish to change or edit the association then do the following:

    Start explorer, choose view menuoption, choose folder options, select file extensions tab.

    In the list of file extensions look for something starting with BIN If you can't find it then the extension was registered with a different discription and you need to step through all the extensions and look for BIN in the details box.

    select the extension and click edit button.

    In the discription editbox enter Atari 2600 ROM file.

    In the action list. Double click open. If there is no open action in the list then click the new button and enter the word open in the action editbox.

    click browse button, browse to z26 directory and select the z26 shortcut, click open, then OK.

    If you wish the association to use the z26 icon then click the change icon button, ignore the message and click the browse button, browse to the z26 directory and doubleclick z26.ico file

    click close twice to finish.

    Now try double clicking a .bin file, it should now open with Z26.

     

    Hope this helps

×
×
  • Create New...