Swami
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Posts posted by Swami
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atari2600.com is gone? Should have bought some backup controller-USB adapters... First Stelladaptor, now 2600-daptor discontinued
Edit: Never-mind the 2600-daptor comment, that is a different site. Just panicked. Still atari2600.com was a good site. Sad to see it go.
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Frogus
in Atari 7800
Thanks for the comments Swami. I should be able to fix those issues. Just have not had time to work on it the last few days.
Tightened up collision detection, made gate/cave entry more forgiving, changed the time pressure indicator by extending it and replacing the lattice blocks with open blocks, modified the way the program handles screen updates reducing the burden on the main loop and animated the fly.
Agree. This version is a lot of fun.
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What is an "OG stick"?
Intellivision has the worst controllers - I'm not going to defend it. Absolutely wretched.
The ColecoVision and the 5200 controllers get a lot of hate but I don't either of them are that bad. I would say the CV controllers are better out of the two.
How else would you design a two button controller with a numeric keypad while maintaining a compact design?
The Co-sticklers or ball-tops help a lot with the Colecovision handheld, surprisingly. I should like the Super Action Controller more, I would think, but it strikes me as big and weird.
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That item lasted one minute?!?!
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The link you posted is to a 2600 PSU but that aside, with regards to the 7800 PSU clone, it works just fine and seems to be well-made. I know some have noted that it fits a bit more snug in the console than the OEM plug, but that's a minor knock.
One significant warning, however: do NOT purchase it directly from the AtariGuide website. The guy who owns that site and store abandoned it over a year ago and does not fulfill orders or respond to emails. Idiotically, he kept the store live and he still accepts orders through PayPal but hasn't fulfilled an order in over a year. Several of us have fallen into that trap and had to have PayPal refund us, but that process takes a while and is quite a hassle.
That said, eBay and Amazon work like a charm. I'm often able to find untested OEM 7800 PSU's for between $10-15 periodically on eBay, though, and they always wind up working and I would recommend those over AtariGuide's, but they do get the job done if needed.
Fixed the bad link. Thank for the info. I guess it depends on experience with used OEM. First used OEM ac adapter I bought for my 2600 didn't work, so been hesitant ever since, but may have been a fluke.
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I have several of these that I purchased new from AtariGuide and they work well. Much better than some other cheaper third-party power supplies I bought (don't remember what brand, but they were very light and the cords weren't very long).
..Al
Thanks. I saw this was a complaint of Brad at Best Electronics, that most of the clone cords were very short.
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The AtariGuide AC adapter has been around for a couple of years now. Have you had good luck, bad luck? Heard good things or bad things? Is it a good replacement for the original power supplies? Thanks!
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I took a look at Robot Tank's death sequence and WOW that is what I wish I could do.
This project may slow down as it might be to advanced for me at the moment but I will look at all the feedback I have been given.
Another question, is it possible to make a line trace behind the player when he moves? Kind of like the player is drawing on the screen?
Thanks in advance.
I would worry about these two suggestions from me if space or coding issues are a problem:
1.The lack of jet animations was also due to ROM space but I am optimizing my code and might be able to add them in later.
2. Joystick down doesn't do anything because I am horrible at modifying the gravity code.
I think it would have enough elements to make play seem complete without them.
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Frogus
in Atari 7800
Added a visual and audio indicator that you caught a fly. The sides of the frog's belly now change color when you eat a fly.
Also added two way traffic and time pressure. Time pressure means you must collect a fly and enter a cave before the timer runs out. The time pressure meter are the lattice boxes at the top of the screen between score and the extra lives indicator.
Also changed the way the extra lives indicator works so that it shows lives remaining (not including the current). It used to show total lives including the one in play.
This version also displays a line near the bottom marking a safe zone where the frog starts and can retreat to. The safe zone existed in last version but is now marked.
Also, seem to get hit by a car when it is a quarter of a length away. But it looks to be like a very fun game when it is done.
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Frogus
in Atari 7800
Goof ideas. It seems like the frog sometimes has a tough time getting into the "pad" on the other side, as if there is an alignment issue and you have to hop around randomly to try to square yourself with the pad hole. Sometime you go in unaligned, sometimes I can't seem to align myself and a car eventually comes along and hits me. I am always getting a fly first.
Added a visual and audio indicator that you caught a fly. The sides of the frog's belly now change color when you eat a fly.
Also added two way traffic and time pressure. Time pressure means you must collect a fly and enter a cave before the timer runs out. The time pressure meter are the lattice boxes at the top of the screen between score and the extra lives indicator.
Also changed the way the extra lives indicator works so that it shows lives remaining (not including the current). It used to show total lives including the one in play.
This version also displays a line near the bottom marking a safe zone where the frog starts and can retreat to. The safe zone existed in last version but is now marked.
I should make that "often" has trouble getting into the pad hole.
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Frogus
in Atari 7800
Goof (edit: good.) ideas. It seems like the frog sometimes has a tough time getting into the "pad" on the other side, as if there is an alignment issue and you have to hop around randomly to try to square yourself with the pad hole. Sometime you go in unaligned, sometimes I can't seem to align myself and a car eventually comes along and hits me. I am always getting a fly first.Added a visual and audio indicator that you caught a fly. The sides of the frog's belly now change color when you eat a fly.
Also added two way traffic and time pressure. Time pressure means you must collect a fly and enter a cave before the timer runs out. The time pressure meter are the lattice boxes at the top of the screen between score and the extra lives indicator.
Also changed the way the extra lives indicator works so that it shows lives remaining (not including the current). It used to show total lives including the one in play.
This version also displays a line near the bottom marking a safe zone where the frog starts and can retreat to. The safe zone existed in last version but is now marked.
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If anyone has one in the Austin/San Antonio area I can pickup here. Or if you live in the Portland, OR area I will be there in a couple weeks.
P.S., be wary of the used joystick ... it may need refurbishing to work well.
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If anyone has one in the Austin/San Antonio area I can pickup here. Or if you live in the Portland, OR area I will be there in a couple weeks.
Try posting in the "Want to Buy" section of the Marketplace. There may be more people looking to off-load some collectibles/inventory.
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I think its due to e-mail nearly eliminating the high profit letter postage. Fortunately for us, there is junk mail keeping them afloat......
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New PMI posted pics of the 2600 stuff a few posts up (not sure why the one user couldn't see them). There are links to pics of the 7800 stuff in the OP. I will try to grab a screenshot of the IV an O2 stuff soon.
EDIT: apparently Photobucket now charges for image hosting to third party sites, so you will have to open the images in a new tab, most likely...
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I've seen this and thought about it. I don't know what the "D/L" could indicate and the lack of a picture makes me a little uneasy it may be something similar or weird. I've gotten mis-labelled things at least a half dozen times. I may try to contact them, but, yes, the price is a bit high. $25-$30 was top price a couple years ago.
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I'd like to get one of those round stickers that goes on the center of the steering wheelo of the expansion module 2 driving module. Many years ago there was a guy selling a sheet of them, but no sign of them now,
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I thought light guns don't work on the lcd, etc... of new tvs?
If that is true then it is useless to create a game for it.
The Wii uses an IR light gun/wiimote. Many plug and play games use IR sensor guns. Works with any TV. I had it explained in a multiple choice poll, but someone pulled it. Supposed to fill out a form first or something???
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Just curious. My own opinion is that although I think it might inspire a few original and intriguing homebrews or hacks of existing shooters or allow realistic ports of shooter arcade games, I believe there is exactly one light gun homebrew for the atari 2600/7800/8-bit line-up (Bobby Needs Food), so it would probably be futile. But, perhaps there is more interest than is perceived. So, I guess I am leaning slightly towards the 4th choice versus the 3rd choice.
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I have a lot of people asking for Donkey Kong PK so I'm starting another batch, but the POKEY's are hard to find cheap now which has driven the price up to $65 + shipping for the cart+manual. I've sent PM's to everyone on my list and will build a few extra. PM me if you want in.
Also, I'll give a $15 credit towards your purchase if you send me a doner Ballblazer cart.
Thank you!
TEP
Sorry to be new to the forum (only a few months) and POKEY market conditions, but the POKEY crisis puzzles me. I've heard people suggest to others to buy a replacement POKEY chip from various sellers, although the threads are a couple years old. One member said he has a large stash of POKEYs. Were all of these coming from 5200's and ballblazers or why the need for using Ballblazer carts for POKEY harvesting...or why were people suggesting buying from dealers if they cost more than the ballblazer cart. Just wondering about the nature of the POKEY crisis.
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I don't trust anything used with a joystick from ebay, unless they are praising its functioning in actual games they've tested it on or saying its only been used a couple times, so I have a legitimate gripe if it sucks. "Works" is a relative term, "untested" is even more of a crap-shoot. However, if you don't mind buying and installing whatever wears out in a particular joystick as soon as it arrives, then suit yourself. Sometimes they come used with a system and sometimes work well, otherwise I try to get a deal on some NOS open box, although that sometimes bites you as it was a bad customer return.
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There's Midwest Gaming Classic just outside of Milwaukee, of course, but that's pretty all-encompassing rather than focused specifically on the earlier generations of games (although they're certainly well represented).
I didn't go to 2DCon. it's way too new, and seems to be completely devoid of anything retro. It didn't get any backing of the local retrogaming scene, nor the pinball one.
Midwest Gaming Classic's the only one near us. The second closest are the MN Retro Gaming Society's Facebook group get togethers.
Okay, thanks guys. It still a bit of a drive, but doable. Glad to hear there is something within a few hours driving distance. I'm surprised, but not too much, nothing has popped up in the twin cities last couple years.
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Controller pin diagram
in ColecoVision / Adam
Posted
pinout: and I believe the driving controller (module 2) also uses 7 and 9.
http://old.pinouts.ru/Game/colecovision_controller_pinout.shtml
However, the link below for a FFM DB9 splitter, an atari extension cord, your atari controller and your colecovision controller is more of a sure bet than a champ controller. This is all the 2-button version of the Champ controller really is. Although, neither will let you use both fire button at exactly the same time, for those you are back to a CV controller of some sort.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016SP1DQ/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=
This is much cheaper than a Champ keypad.
Although, while using the y-splitter, both buttons on the CV controller will still function normally and will act at the exact same time, so I have a theory that if one soldered the correct two points for each button on the CV controller to the corresponding points on the 7800 controller, you could use the joystick and buttons on the 7800 controller just as you would a CV controller and use the CV controller for the keypad. Otherwise, you could make a whole new controller that matches the CV controller pcb, etc., exactly, which is I believe what grips and Edladdin did/are doing.
Edit: Sorry, forgot to quote.