RamrodHare

I'll try this tonight and see if it helps.

I think the only hope I have is to save up and buy a UAV board. Since it bypasses everything and takes the signal straight from the TIA chip, it should solve the problem. I was just hoping there was a simple/cheap solution, but it's not looking like that's going to be the case.

Yes, the top picture shows the problem, the bottom picture is for reference, to show how it looks on another console. I've tried the transistor mod from Atariguy1021 and the one I have installed now is the TI THS7314 mod from Osgeld. Both pictures are on a Vizio LCD HDTV, using the same picture settings. On a CRT, the result is the same, it was just easier to photograph on my Vizio. I didn't take a picture when I had the transistor mod installed in the 2600, but I can tell you it looked worse than the TI THS7314 mod. I have the transistor mod in my 7800 right now and the picture quality is nice and clear. I've tested both mods on my 7800 and they work great. Seeing the screen in person makes a big difference. The photo really doesn't have the same effect. In person it looks really blurry, so your eyes try to adjust and bring it into focus but can't. After a couple of minutes it starts to strain your eyes. It's hard to put it into words, so hopefully that makes sense. EDIT- The issue is on all my TVs, LCD and CRT. My 7800 with the same mod has a clear picture as does my unmodded Jr. It's only the 2600 that has this issue and it's been the same with both mods.

As some of you may know, I've been talking about posting a thread with some pics showing the picture quality issues I've been having with my 2600. It has a revision 12 motherboard and I've replaced the caps and voltage regulator. I've tried two different mod boards, both donated by members here. I want to make it clear, the mod boards aren't the issue, since they work extremely well in my 7800. The pictures you are about to see show the difference in picture quality between my modded 2600 and my unmodded Jr. While the picture from the Vader looks out of focus, it isn't. You can still clearly see the name plate on the bottom of the TV frame. I tried to take both pictures from the same distance and angle, but it's not perfect. I also had to shrink the pictures in order to upload them. So, here they are. I'd like to hear thoughts on what might be causing this issue, since I find it hard to use the Harmony Cart with my Vader because the menu is pretty hard to read. It's much worse in person than the pictures would lead you to believe. The first pic is from the Vader, the second is from the Jr.

While you are correct, the 2600 isn't HD, you aren't 100% correct about the mods. Quite a few people will disagree with you about it making a difference in picture quality. As far as my 2600 goes, even with the composite mods not working very well, the picture is still better than the RF ever was. My 7800 with RF was unplayable. With one of the cheap composite mods, it has a very nice, clear picture. I can say that my 2600 Jr remains unmodded , because it has the clearest RF signal I've ever seen. It's as good as my composite modded 7800, maybe even better. So, that proves that not all consoles NEED to be modded, but in most cases, you will notice an improvement. I've seen plenty of before and after pics from people who have bought the UAV board and there's no denying that the picture quality goes from decent to nearly perfect. A lot of people will say that the reason for doing a composite or S-video mod is not only to improve the picture quality, but also to give the console an output that's more acceptable for new TVs. So far, I haven't ran into a TV that cared if the console was coax or composite. I have had issues on a "Smart TV", but those issues apply no matter how the console is connected. I even tried using a VCR as a go-between. The Smart TV was still too stupid to work correctly with some games. The issues I've ran into on the Smart TV are unique. None of my other TVs had any issues at all. Even ones made by the same manufacturer during the same time. I'm getting off track here though. As many people on the forums will tell you, most of the mods aren't "high tech" and do make a real difference. I'm not saying everyone should mod their console. If your's has acceptable picture quality, that's great. If you don't mind there being some snow, that's fine. Like I said, my Jr is still unmodded and I think the picture quality is amazing. Most mods do have some risks involved in installing them, but it's no more than the risks involved in doing any soldering, such as replacing the caps or the voltage regulator. If you do it right, the mods can even be reversed with no ill effects. I know there are purists who think that modding a vintage console is a deadly sin and they have the right to have that opinion. I don't look at it as harming the console or it's value. I want to "PLAY" the games and I'd like the best possible picture when I do it. If that means doing some soldering, then that's perfectly acceptable. Everyone is different and has the right to be different. Seeing before and after pictures proves that there are "REAL" improvements. I see that as a fact and facts are hard to argue with.

I chose 32 bit windows, because all the computers I have are 32 bit. I use Stella every now and then, but most of the time, I use my consoles and the Harmony Cart.

For a title, I was thinking... Space Invaders SUPERCHARGED!

I've been really considering going this route for a portable system that works with a PS3 controller and can run 8 and 16 bit systems. When using bluetooth are you limited to only one controller? My main reason for making a portable system is to be able to use it for 2 player games when I visit friends. I've read up on Pi systems quite a bit, but I've gotten mixed reviews. Some people think it's underpowered and that a laptop or small PC is better. I'd be interested in knowing what your thoughts are.

This is a fun game to play and only needing to use one button makes it interesting. Simple to play, hard to master. That's the way games should be!

What kind of TV is it? I've had some crazy issues when trying to play on a "Smart TV", you know, the ones that have the internet apps and crap. Also, a better description might help diagnose if there's a problem with the console or not. Was this an issue with all the consoles or just the Atari? Some new Tvs do have some issues with certain games, so knowing what game you were using might help.

I played it once, about a month ago. It's still on my Harmony Cart, but I hadn't tried it out again. I figured I just needed to read the instructions, but now I know that's not the problem.

I like all of bohoki's ideas. I'm also really looking forward to seeing this as it progresses!

Ah, I see. Then It would be best to just go with the most cost effective mod. If you haven't already bought one of the eBay ones, I suggest trying Osgeld's mod.

I agree that your mod is better than the transistor mods, since it's what I have in my 2600 right now. It made a definite improvement, but the picture quality still isn't as good as my unmodded Jr. I would recommend your mod over the transistor mods for sure! I don't know the technical reasons, but the 7800 and the Jr both seem to work better with any of the cheap mods. I've even wondered if my old revision 12 motherboard was causing poor picture quality, but I've seen too many reports from other sources noting that 2600s in general, didn't work as well with cheaper mods. I really need to get around to posting some screenshots comparing the pictures from all three of my systems, since it might end up being helpful to other people and not just me. I know I can't expect miracles from a 2600, but I feel like I should get picture quality equal to that of an unmodded Jr and right now, that's not happening. I'm actually using my unmodded Jr most of the time, just because the picture quality is so much better. I'll try my best to make a thread tomorrow and post some comparison pictures.

It's your Atari, so the decision is up to you, but if you buy a $13 mod board and then realize the picture isn't that great (which you probably will), then you will have to shell out another $25 to get the UAV mod board. Why not just do it right the first time? I know there are people who are happy with the cheap mods, but I've compared the picture quality between my cheap mod 7800, my unmodded RF 2600 Jr and my cheap mod 2600. The 7800 and the unmodded Jr both have much better picture quality. I've even tried two different cheap mods on my 2600 and I wasn't happy with either. ( They were given to me, thankfully.) The UAV connects right to the TIA pins and gives you a perfect picture. The cheap mods can't do that. I can barely read the text on my Harmony Cart menu on my 2600. The same menu is crystal clear on my 7800 and my Jr. It was like that with both of the cheap mods I tried on my 2600. I haven't been able to spare the cash for the UAV, but I've seen the screenshots and read the reviews, if you have $25, get the UAV. Don't take my word for it, search the forums for the threads about the UAV and you'll see for yourself that it's a much better option.

Sounds to me like this might be one of those deals you should let go, unless he's willing to give you a money back guarantee that it works. Seems to me he should have just done that in the first place instead of taking it to his friend to "test" it. Of course there's always the chance that it may only need a simple repair to function again, but if you buy it as-is, then you're stuck with it. Unless it's ridiculously cheap, I'd just pass on it without a guarantee.

I voted and I don't have a problem with the title, except for the fact that I have a game on my Harmony called "Another Space Game". So, that could be a little confusing, but it's not a major issue. Quite a few of the old 2600 games have simple titles that didn't always make it clear what the game was about. Honestly, I'll play it no matter what the title is, so feel free to keep the name or change it.

Is the power adapter the original Atari brand or a newer aftermarket one? Aftermarket power supplies have been known to cause some issues. Have you tried connecting it to a different TV to see if it still has the same problem?

Just guessing, I'd say you have a bad mod. It might help to know if you are using a Pal system or NTSC. Also you should be using a TV that matches. what type of cable are you using? There's a lot of details you've left out that might help us figure out what's going on.

You weren't specific on which type of Atari you have, so I'm gonna guess you mean a regular 2600. For the best possible picture, you're gonna want a better mod than the eBay one. Search the forum for the thread on the UAV board. It's the one you are gonna want for a 2600. The eBay mod works great for the Jr and the 7800, but the plain 2600s need a better mod. The UAV is only $25 if I remember correctly and it is far superior.

Are you using an original Atari power supply or an aftermarket one?

I've grappled with this for a long time. My Addiction (besides Atari), is Transformers. I grew up watching the cartoons and playing with the toys in the 80s. Collecting the vintage toys took me back to a better time in my life, like Atari does. Just like any addiction though, it quickly gets out of hand. With Atari, I have managed to get more joysticks than I'll ever need, yet I don't want to sell them. My Transformers addiction grew past just collecting vintage toys. I've still got enough self control to not go crazy and buy every Transformer figure I see. I manage to keep it confined to certain characters or certain toy lines. For example, I don't buy any of the toys related to the live action movies and I try to only buy characters who I have a connection to, from the old cartoons. I've managed to keep my focus on only buying Transformer toys from the "Titans Return" line this year. When it comes to Atari stuff, I don't have quite the same amount of control. If I have money I can spend, I grab anything 2600 or 7800 related, even if I don't want or need it. Most of my hoarding (or collecting) is kept in check by my "ability" to fixate on something new and completely lose interest in everything that came before. By doing that, I am able to sell off entire collections of things, without regret. I almost always make a profit when I do it, but even in the worst cases, I at least break even. Out of all the things I've ever collected, Transformers and video games are the two that seem to always keep me interested. I guess they played a bigger role in my childhood than other things did. I'll tell you what helps me justify hoarding. There have been many cases where I would have something that seemed worthless and I'd decide to throw it away or sell it really cheap, only to discover that I NEEDED the item shortly thereafter or that it became valuable right after I got rid of it. I'm always repairing things or building something, so any little piece of plastic, metal, wood, leather, or anything could be repurposed into something useful or of value. As to the actual topic of this thread, I'm not sure there's a stopping point for me. I've put myself into some bad situations when it comes to having enough money for food, bills, medications, etc. Like any addict, it's sometimes too hard to stop without help. If there's one thing I'm extremely thankful for, it's that I've never been addicted to anything "bad". It's always been toys or collectables of some kind. Drugs, alcohol, smoking, and stuff like that, never interested me. I saw the effects of drinking, drugs and smoking while I was growing up. I lost a lot of my family to cancer, so smoking was just as bad to me as drugs or drinking. I saw friends die from drinking and driving and drug overdoses.

I took my Wico Bat handle joystick apart just now, to see if I could give you some advice after looking at it again to refresh my memory. As onemoretime mentioned, the Wico has a rubber diaphragm module (That's what Wico called it) encased in a plastic housing. If it's stiffer than the other one you have, it could mean it's in better condition. The one I have has barely been used and was kept in the box and it's stiffer than any of the other joysticks I've seen. Of course it could be that the rubber has hardened over time and needs replacing. Without doing more disassembly than I feel like, I don't know what the state of the diaphragm in mine is, since it is encased in a while plastic enclosure. Originally, powdered graphite was used as lubrication, since other lubricants may harm the rubber. Of course getting graphite all over the inside can cause issues too, since it conducts electricity, which may be what's causing an issue with your switch for the fire buttons. If you are comfortable taking it apart, I'd tear it down, clean everything, inspect the diaphragm, and then reassemble it. Other than that, there's no easy fix. If the diaphragm is bad, you might find a NOS replacement, just be sure it's The real Wico part. There are aftermarket replacements out there that aren't an exact fit and wouldn't be worth using.

I don't know about other print shops, but mine will print anything. I've never had an issue with anything I've taken to them. I've done Star Wars stickers, Transformers Stickers, movie and video game posters, and just random photos. Their prices are extremely cheap too. For example, I had some stickers printed when I worked at the comic shop in town. 2 sheets of repro stickers for vintage Star Wars R2D2s was $4. That was enough stickers to restore over 50 R2D2s. They were printed on weatherproof vinyl, but not pre-cut. I used a few of them to restore R2D2s I had, and sold a few at the comic shop for $1 each. I still have the rest packed away in a box with some other stickers. I'm not sure what it would cost to do boxes, since they would need to be pre-cut and have the fold lines. If you want, I can check with them and get an estimate. Also, the more you have printed, the less it will cost, of course.

That thing is awesome!