RamrodHare

Ok, quick question. How do I pad this to 2K to make it work on the Harmony? I've never had to do that, so I'm completely lost.

Just discovered this game! Love the first one, can't wait to see this one finished! UPDATE- Just tried this on the Harmony Encore (2600 Jr.)and it's not working. I just get some black and white vertical lines. I tried it twice, both times it had the exact same results. I'll retry it tomorrow on my Vader and 7800 to see if it's just the Jr. or if it's on all hardware.

I didn't buy one for one simple reason. I have a hacked PSP. I can run emulators and games from almost every system on it. I rarely play it though. I tend to grab my Gameboy Advance Micro for on the go gaming. I have an EZ Flash 4 cart, so I have some emulators and the entire GBA library with me. Of course there isn't a 2600 emulator for the GBA (That I know of). Still, I would rather play my 2600 games on real hardware anyway. I did break down and buy a Flashback 3 and 4, but it was before I had my Vader, Junior, and 7800. I have nothing against the Flashback portable, I just don't need it and the price seems too high for me to justify getting one anyway.

Since no one else has posted, I guess I'll see if I can be of assistance. Are you saying the stick is TOO responsive, or are you saying there's too much play in it before it activates the switches? I have one right here, so if you want to post a pic of the inside of yours, I can compare and see if the problem is visible. My only suggestion right now is to try bending the leaf springs, but I may be able to provide a better solution once I see a photo of the inside.

When did you order it?

I like the look of that one! I just got an "ACE" joystick today. It looks like a generic version of the cx40s. I tore it down and cleaned it after I tested it. The insides are VERY similar to the CX40, but the inner handle is black and instead of having an indentation in the center, it has a rounded knob. The indent is in the lower body, so it's reversed when compared to a CX40. The pcbs look almost the same, except the wires are soldered on. The fire button is much larger too. It has a long throw and isn't super responsive, but it's not terrible. I also got 3 more CX40s today, one needed a new inner handle and one needed a new boot. I had both parts on hand, so it wasn't a big deal to get them looking and working good. I did find that one of them had a different PCB in it. It's a different color, dark brown, with no writing at all. The traces on it are copper colored, with silver domes. I replace it with one of the factory ones I had on hand, just because I wasn't sure about one of the domes on it. I don't know if it was an aftermarket PCB from years ago, or what. It's the first time I've ran into a PCB like it. I also got another set of Atari Paddles, which I tore down and cleaned. Now they are working great. I'm still actively looking for some other controllers to try out, so keep the suggestions coming! Oh, one last thing, I was given a nice box for a Quickshot I. It still has the Hills price sticker on it. $3.47, new! I don't know what year that was, but It would be awesome if we could still get new joysticks for that price today. I'm tempted to get one of them to put in the box just to keep on a shelf.

OK, I can't explain it, but when I hooked the board up to the TV just now, everything worked fine. Demons to Diamonds, Battlezone and the Harmony Cart. They all worked fine, other than some snow from having the shielding off of the board.. The only thing I've done that I hadn't already tried, is hooking it up without the shielding. So now I'm stumped. I think I'll order a refurb kit so I can replace all the caps, just in case, but right now it's working fine. It almost makes me think it might be a bad solder joint, but I can't see anything that even looks slightly off and I don't really feel like reflowing the entire board right now. I'm going to try reassembling it and see if it still works. I really hate that it started working like this, because now I don't know what caused it. Had I actually repaired something, I would know it was fixed, now I feel like I'll just be waiting for it to screw up again. I have mixed emotions about it. I'm glad it's working, but I'm sad I didn't find what caused it. Thanks for trying to help me out anyway.

I tried to take photos of the cap to get your opinion on whether or not it looked bulged on the end, but I can't get it in focus well enough to really see.

I have one I removed when I replaced them on my Vader, but it says 50WV 4.7 I'm guessing the 4.7 is the important part?

Ok, I'm not sure about the 4.7UF cap. I can't tell for sure if the end is bulged or if the plastic coating just doesn't cover as much of the end as it does on the other one.

5.04v EDIT- I just noticed a 35v 4.7UF cap that the end is slightly bulged compared to the other one on the board. it also has a slight yellow discoloration near the end. I'm guessing this might be the issue?

I just visually checked them. The only type of tester I have is just a cheap multimeter. If there's a way to test them with it, I have it apart and ready. I did test the voltage regulator and power supply. They are both working fine, I even tried a second power supply, just to be sure.

OK, I didn't know if I should post this here or in Hardware, so I just put it here. I just got a 2600 Jr. today and it has a few issues. When you first turn it on, with any game or the Harmony cart, it takes probably 10 seconds before the picture shows up on the TV. When you put a Battlezone cart in and turn it on, it takes a few seconds, then you get the radar and some other random bits of the picture kind of jumping around the screen, then it will show up correctly, but with a very dim picture. In a couple of seconds, the picture brightens up and the colors are all good. If Demons to Diamonds is inserted, same wait time on start-up, but the color and brightness are good. Now, here's the big problem. When you hit reset to start Demons to Diamonds, it goes from color to Black and White. Unplugging the rca cable from the back of the console and then slowly putting it back, will allow you to see a split second of color before it goes B&W again. The same thing happens using the Demons and Diamonds .bin on the Harmony Encore. Also, With the Harmony, if you switch it off, while it's B&W and then switch it right back on, the Harmony menu is in B&W. Switching it off and on again, results in color. The Jr. isn't modded and an inspection of the board showed no bad solder joints or leaky caps. The Serial is A1781245617 The board is CO21503 Revision C On most games, it looks great, the colors and the picture are better than my AV modded Vader and 7800, other than the lack of a picture for a few seconds when you turn it on. Demons to Diamonds is the only game I've found so far that triggers the B&W issue, but I feel like that's a sign of something needing repair. So, does anyone have an answer as to what's wrong with it?

Hey, at least we can still play Fat Axl!

OK, so sales are out of the question. That's sad, but understandable, I guess.. Of course you could release the rom and the label artwork for free, adding a disclaimer message that it was fan art and not to be sold in any form.. There's nothing they can do about that, since you wouldn't be selling anything, it would just be fan made art. "IF" someone were to then put it on a cart for their own personal use, what are they gonna do about it? I mean really, there's nothing they can do, because there's no crime in making something and giving it away for free. OK, unless it's something like methamphetamine, in which case it IS illegal. I go back to my original Disney scenario. I draw a picture of Mickey Mouse and then I sing- "M I C K E Y M O U S E!" and upload it to youtube, what can they do, have it removed from Youtube? Doubtful, but "IF" they did, someone could have already downloaded it and put it all over the internet. I just don't see how anything made by a fan and then given away can infringe on a trademark. If it did, we'd have all been sued at one time or another. Maybe I don't respect the laws, I don't know. OK, Actually I do know. I DON'T respect a lot of the laws, because they are ridiculous. It just seems to me that if someone puts their time and energy into making something (NOT METH), they have the right to do whatever they want with it. You did the RIGHT thing by asking for permission. Had it been me, I would have released the game and not even thought about the repercussions for one second. Considering how small the Atari community is compared to other things, MeTV would have never even known my game was released and if they had, then they could try to sue me. It's not like they could get anything from me, if it even made it to court. Like I said, you did the right thing by asking for permission, That's the respectful and honorable thing to do, so you get points for that. If you don't release the rom, that's fine, I would never hold it against you and I'm sure no one else in the community would either. We'll respect whatever decision you make.

I'd be mad as hell. I try to NEVER order from anywhere outside of my own country for the same reasons. It's just too risky. Not to mention the fact that most of the time,if there is a problem, there's a language barrier. If they don't speak the same language, then communication is usually routed through Google translate. Trust me, neither of you will understand what the hell is being said. I've dealt with it firsthand. I recently had a similar incident, but with a different seller, that's a story for another thread.. I also tried to go to the website, just to check it out. My Windows computer wouldn't let me access it, so I tried my Android tablet and was immediately alerted that this site contained harmful malware and was a known phishing site. My Windows computer, running Chrome, just refused to acknowledge the site even existed. This, along with your story, and the others I've seen here is a good enough reason for me to stay far, far away from this site. If I were you, I'd try my best to get a full refund, through Paypal, your credit card company, or whatever. I wouldn't let them get away with it. They could have EASILY contacted you, but they chose not to. They were smart enough to know that if they contacted you, you would have canceled the entire order. They wanted money and didn't give a [email protected]#t about you. I say fight the bastards and get your money back.

I've only seen this version in photos online, so I can't be much help when it comes to modding it. I can tell you that the standard AV composite mods have varying results. My 7800, with the standard AV mod works great, but my Vader 2600 has really bad issues with color bleed. My suggestion, would be to look up the UAV thread and see if Bryan, (He makes those boards) can help you out. From what I've read, that mod is hard to beat, and it's affordable.

It looks like you spent WAY too much on the mods, but if you're happy, then it's OK. I can tell you, that screenshot of HERO looks great.

As far as the lettering goes, wash it first and see if that helps. If it's really faded, there's not much you can do other than painting over it or swap the switch cover out for one from another system. Painting over the letters will never look just right, so if it's something you really want fixed, buying a parts system and swapping out the switch cover is the only real solution.

It's sad that there's so much "red tape" when it comes to making games like this availible for the public. I know there are loopholes, but lawyers could still tie it up in court for who knows how long, so it MAY not be worth the effort. I'm not sure though how the laws would work on something like this. For example, there are tons of "Fan-made" things being bought and sold everyday without repercussions. It seems to me, something like this, should fall under that category. Like I said, I have no idea how the laws work, but if they were to enforce laws on everything "fan-made", the courts would be tied up for eternity. I've made replicas of movie props and stuff and sold them on eBay. Some things, I made quite a few copies of and I never got contacted by anyone telling me to stop. I may have been lucky or it may just be that they don't care as long as you aren't getting rich. I don't know. I guess if they never know you're selling it, you're ok. It's all about "IF". Let's say I made a game based on a Disney Movie and I sold 50 copies with a profit margin of $5 or less, I don't see Disney wasting money to sue me. Sure, I may get one of those cease and desist letters, at which point I would stop selling the game. In order to send me a letter, they would first have to find out about the game, then find out who made it and how to get in touch with them. It just seems like a lot of trouble for something so insignificant. I'm sure they have bigger issues to deal with.. Again, I'm no expert, I have no law degree, and I don't even PLAY a Doctor on TV. I'm just sharing my opinion, no matter how incorrect it may be.

I feel like Chocolat would fit better in this game, with the carrot theme, but there's nothing wrong with Jinny. I like both actually. Years ago I used to annoy people on one of my favorite forums by finding a way to work the word "bUnNiEs" into EVERY post I made. BUT, I also used to DJ at a local club and I would sometimes throw in a loud "MEOW, MEOW!" when I was about to play a song requested by my girlfriend/bartender. Now days, I'm fond of trying to talk random people into buying an invisible turtle. I even sweeten the deal by telling them I'll throw in some dehydrated water for free. Everyone knows invisible turtles get thirsty!

First off, this seller needs to be tied behind a horse and dragged through the desert naked, then burned at the stake, castrated, drowned and then given a papercut between his fingers. (Notice the mean streak I have, saving the worst punishment for last.) . Since none of that is really an option in today's society, I'm not sure there's much that can be done. Trying to get eBay to give up their share of the profits from this guy's sales, well, it's just not going to happen. The only thing to do is try and educate the buyers, which is also going to be nearly impossible. Most of the people who shop on eBay have no clue as to what things are really worth. They either can't or won't do any research. I know plenty of people like this. Even with the magic of the internet at their fingertips, there are still people who just can't "do" anything. I try my best to do my research before I buy or sell anything. Research is what brought me to AtariAge to begin with. For a buyer to blindly go shopping for "vintage" or "rare" items is just plain stupid, yet they do it all the time. There's no way to help people like that. I don't like to see people get cheated, but sayings for people like that have been around for years, "A fool and his money are soon parted", and "There's one born every minute." There are others, but you get what I'm saying. I feel bad for the buyers, but I can't force them to educate themselves before making a purchase.

Well, I can't do anything about it, I'm just now learning to do some VERY basic hacking. I would really love it if someone would do an updated version of the game, with better music. Hopefully someone will decide to try it!

I just found this today and it's AWESOME! I can't wait for the next demo.

So far I've been given quite a bit to think about when making my next joystick purchase. It's really looking like it will be the Tac-2, but with the prices I've been seeing, I might start off with the Starfighter or Slik Stik. Of course there's still the option to build my own, which brings up a whole new range of options, such as which stick and what buttons, so I don't even want to get into that right now.