RamrodHare

Some "Smart" TVs don't like the signal and running it through a VCR won't help if that's the case. I would recommend using a different TV. Of course an old CRT is best. Also, using the adapter shown in chas10e's reply is going to give you much better results than the old switch box that came with the console. You may also get a better picture on channel 2, so be sure to try it. As mentioned, most newer TVs will need to search for or have channels programed in. To do this, the TV needs to be able to pick up analog signals. The instructions for your TV should explain how to set analog channels. even though the end of the RF cable looks like an RCA/AV connector, it's not. You can't connect it straight to the TV. You either need that adapter or the switch box to connect it to the Coaxial input of the TV. That's where the antenna or cable connects to the TV. If you have an electric heater or a fan nearby, it may cause interference in the picture, so if the picture has a lot of noise or static, turn off anything within 10 or so feet of the TV and console. If there's still noise in the picture, you can put a clamp-on ferrite core around the RF cable a few inches from the console. If the console isn't working, post in the Hardware section. If you have any questions, feel free to send me a message and I'll do what I can to help you out.

I haven't played it yet, but I have downloaded it and read the instructions. It looks like it's gonna be cool!

That's more than a lot of us can afford. Also, even if I could afford it, there are much more important things to spend that kind of money on. I'm not saying it isn't cool, it really is, but it's not $500 cool.

Even if it needs a little work, I think you got a great deal. The joystick looks to still have most of the orange paint on it, which means it may not have seen a lot of use. That's a good sign. The pots in the paddles should only need a good cleaning, so that's not a big deal. You got 30 games that will probably all work after cleaning the contacts. So, if the power supply is good, you've got your money's worth . If the Vader fires up and works, you got a real bargain! The seller really had no clue how much shipping is. Be sure to let us know how it goes when you get it.

You have one good power supply it sounds like. Use it, don't worry about the other one, it's probably not worth the effort to worry about it now. For the carts, clean the contacts with 91% alcohol and something lint free. For the power jack on the console, it probably needs to be replaced. Forget about the original switch box and get a barrel type RCA to coax adapter. If you are going to get your replacement parts from Best Electronics, there's a minimum order, so get everything you think you need in one go. Console5.com has refurb kits that include the power jack and all the components that go bad overtime. The kit is cheap, so it's probably something you want to look into. If you are going to use those two joysticks, consider rebuilding them with the Gold PCBs from Best Electronics. You also need new boots for them and possibly the retaining rings for the boots. The paddles may need new pots, so think about that too. There's a lot of "ifs" involved in what you have and what you know about how well the stuff works, so it may come down to what you can afford to go ahead and replace and what can wait. Of course getting the console working is step one. Then you need working joysticks and paddles. You game carts are probably fine, they probably just need the contacts cleaned. The cart slot may also need cleaning. There are plenty of instructions online to help you with all the things you need to do or you can just ask the members here. Don't let my list of things overwhelm you, most of this stuff is fairly simple to work out. If you can't afford all the parts for everything, just focus on the console, then worry about the accessories later. There are plenty of members who have extra working joysticks or paddles they will probably sell for a reasonable price. If you don't feel comfortable with all the work involved, we can walk you through it step by step or there are members who will do the work for you if you don't mind the cost.

The Flashbacks have been around for a while. I don't own the Portable, so I don't have any info on that. Here in the USA, they have been showing up at Walmart. The Portable is $45, but the Flashback 8 is $88 I think. Locally, it seems like most stores have been carrying them for a while. Dollar General being one that has carried them since the beginning it seems. I have a Flashback 3 and a Flashback 4 with the wireless joysticks. They are pretty neat.

Honestly, I'm not sure it actually helps to have it or not, but as far as originality, it belongs there. As mentioned, it is easily replaced with foil tape from any hardware store. So, if it's up to the person with the console to decide if they want to leave it remove it or replace it.

Original hardware is readily availible for a decent price. It's rather cheap to repair and it has history and nostalgia. You can't replicate that. The one downside to original hardware, IMHO, is the lack of HD output. Still, I'm happy with playing the games the way they were played in 1977.

Just a quick bit of advice, If you have any more Flashback related questions, you might find help in the Flashback section of the forums.

That looks like a decent one. If you decide to go looking for Joysticks, keep in mind that the new ones are all junk. It's best to get working vintage ones. You can also buy new parts to refurbish the old ones. Best Electronics is a site you really need to check out. The website is "odd" but Brad is an awesome guy to deal with and he has almost anything you could need.

OK, first, don't let someone rip you off. I really wish you hadn't mentioned how much you were willing to spend. You can buy a refurbished Vader for less than you mentioned... If it's a Vader, you don't want a cheap mod board, you want the UAV. A cheap mod board won't give you the best picture quality. The UAV is only $25, if I remember correctly and a guy here on the forums sells them. You are probably going to want to replace the capacitors and the voltage regulator, possibly the power jack. Some people don't change all those parts, but those are the ones that usually go bad, so it won't hurt to replace them all at once. You can get a complete refurb kit with all the components you need for $10 or $15. So, are you using the old switch box or are you using one of the barrel type RCA to Coax adapters? You may not need a mod board if you get one of the adapters instead of using the switch box. Another thing that will help the RF signal is to get a ferrite core that clips on the cable. This will help remove interference. Also, are you using a modern TV or an older CRT? It's not that hard to do the soldering yourself. It sounds like you have the basic idea of how it works. The best advice I can give you is to use very thin solder, the smaller the diameter of the solder, the faster it will melt, meaning less chance of burning something up. The biggest risk is accidently lifting a trace off the board, but that can happen to anyone. If you have any type of junk electronics, you can practice on them until you feel comfortable working on the Atari. If you think you'd rather pay someone else to do the work, I understand. Just be sure it's someone trustworthy.

Without some soldering, there isn't much you can do. The power switch probably just needs the contacts cleaned, as mentioned above. When it comes to picture quality, it will help to know how you are connecting it to the TV (using the original switchbox or a RCA to coax adapter). The old switchboxes are usually the issue with poor picture quality, but you have to remember, these consoles came out before Flat Screen HDTVs, so for the best picture quality, you are going to want to connect it to a CRT TV. The UAV mod board is your best bet for really nice picture quality, but again, you need to do some soldering. Also, shipping cost isn't cheap and while there are very reliable people here on the forums who can/will work on it for you, finding someone may prove to be harder than you think. Time is money and there's quite a bit of time involved in doing a nice refurb and adding a mod board. That means the cost involved, after shipping, may be more than you want to invest. Knowing what type of 2600 it is would help though. There are a few different variations, so if you don't know what you have, a few photos will help us to help you. Most of the people here are happy to answer questions or walk you through the process of troubleshooting and repair, so feel free to ask questions.

Great work on the photos. That's the first time I've seen a CX10 disassembled and laid out to show the differences. There's a board member who's making brass discs for these too (EDIT: Just saw you posted in that thread already.). I'd love to get a set sometime, but I can't afford it right now. Keep us updated if you find replacement "domes" for them. I know it wouldn't be original, but if the domes turn out to be hard to find, you might be able to get some really small micro switches instead. Thanks again for sharing the photos!

I agree that you can't go wrong with the Harmony Encore. I have played the Supercharger games on it. It does the job perfectly. As for the Mateos, I've heard great things about it and have wanted one for some time now. I just haven't been able to afford it. When it comes to 7800 games, the Mateos is the best thing out right now and the price is comparable to a couple of the rare 7800 carts, so that's something to think about if you are interested in playing some of the better 7800 games but can't pull the trigger on a $50 game. Having the Harmony Encore hasn't been what stopped me from buying homebrew carts. My income is what keeps me from buying the games I want. If I had the money, I'd be buying almost every homebrew that came out!

Nope, we all agree Tacos are better.

or turtles!

Those prices are crazy. I don't know how much difference there is between dollars in Canada and the USA, but those prices still sound WAY too high. A working Jr. is around $40-50 here and a Vader or woody can be bought for $30-50. The heavy sixers are more, but not $269! The only way a game should be worth $10+ is if it's rare or boxed. Something else you should consider about the deal, is that everything in it will need some work probably. The carts may only need a cleaning, but the console needs work, as you know, but those paddles will need the pots disassembled and cleaned or they will need the pots replaced. The joysticks also need new boots and possibly new PCBs. You also won't know if the power supplies are working unless you test them with a working system or a meter before buying them. In my opinion, it's a big gamble, but if you can afford it, that's cool. I just want you to know what all might be involved in that deal. Worst case scenario, everything may need parts and work, other than the carts. Best case, everything will just need cleaning and a few parts for the joysticks and console..

I wouldn't estimate cart value based on vintage game shop prices.. I've been lucky to get $1 a cart for my games. My opinion would be to offer around $75 since the console won't power up.

I haven't heard of any, but I like the idea!

Without having it in hand to mess with, my theory is that the power supply just doesn't agree with the Gemini. Also, the 7800 has a different port than the 2600, unless someone has changed it on yours. The 7800 power supply has a two prong port with a two hole connector on the power supply. I know that the 2600 can be very picky about the type of power supply used, so it's possible the Gemini has the same issue. I'd try to find an original power supply in order to rule that out before replacing components on the board.

Vidak, Keep up the good work!

Ok, First plug the power supply in and use the meter to check the tip on the power supply to make sure you are getting power there. Also use it to find out where positive and negative are on the tip, since I'm not familiar with the Gemini, I can't tell you which part of the tip should be positive. You might try looking up a schematic for the Gemini board on Google.. If the tip has power, the next step is to plug the power supply into the port on your board and find the solder points for the port and check to make sure you have power going through the port to the board. If so go on to the next step. See the big round capacitor (the thing that looks like a can)? Right beside it is the voltage regulator. It's the black square thing with three pins. It has 3 pins, one is power going in, one is ground and the other is power coming out, which should be 5 volts. Search google for 7805 pinout and you should be able to find a photo showing which pin is which (I can't recall at the moment). If you have power at the voltage regulator, then maybe check the on/off switch to see if it's working correctly, that's about as much help as I can be, since I don't have a Gemini here to mess with.