larrylaffer

Bump! he a800 that I had also in this listing sold. No further dropping the asking price of the boxed 130XE

Bump - Price on ebay is dropped, so I am reflecting it to this listing.

Bump!

Nothing left here...

Either way, these rules apply for every power supply for any device. 🙂

Reading a bit more carefully it seems like AC is unlikely as it is a newer device and if it says "tip positive" or "tip negative" it implies it is DC (in AC the two terminals switch between positive and negative). So make sure the amperage is within range and you are good to go.

One very important thing to pay attention to is the amps that the keyboard draws! You need to find a power supply with the above discussed specs but with at minimum the number of amperage the manufacturer gives. Using less will put stress in the power supply and the keyboard and probably this will result in sever damage in either or both. Personally when I do things like this I aim to use a power supply that its amperage is rated about 20% more than what I need. But this is because the power supply will run a bit less stressed. So make sure the voltage is exactly the same (not less not more) and the amperage is either same or greater. One detail that is also very important is if the keyboard takes DC (direct current) or AC (alternative current). Probably it is DC but older devices (like the atari 400, 800 and their disk drives 810, 1050 etc) used to take AC and were converting it internally to DC. If your device needs AC and you give it DC, or the other way around at best case it won't work, worse case you will damage it (and/or the power supply).

I love my netusbee. USB is handy but can corrupt files if the pen drive is not prepared (formatted) correctly and that can depend on the TOS version. Network however using uiptool is fantastic: fast and efficient. I'm fact I have a NAS connected to all my retro computers (Atari, Amiga, RiscPC, Mac, PC) via an Ethernet switch and that is really sweet.

Yes, that was the thread with all the good info, you found it! Just open your ataris and have a look... Probably the circuit is already printed on the PCB... And if not it is such a simple circuit that you can make it yourself and connect it.

Yes. Most of the non RF based STs (=the ones without the M in their name) have the circuit already printed on the motherboard. All you need to do is add a few compartment (as you said 2-3 resistors a transit and a diode of I remember correctly). The cost to do the mod is like $10 plus 10 mins of soldering. I have fixed two mega STs like that. The info is in the form, I will try to dig it out...

Looks beautiful! If I didn't have a mega st already I would be interested. Even the painting and mods look from the pictures really nice and well done...

I was lucky enough to have a tower for my TT and I have my Mach64 installed inside the tower. But maybe something like this will work: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3638032

Not sure what you mean by "386 BIOS and 2m"... As far as I know if it is a Mach64 and ISA it works... The DAC might make a difference and you can look it up from the driver's page: https://silicon-heaven.org/atari/nova/MegaSTE/Mach64/ I think I do have a spare one that I was using in my TT. If interested DM me and I will open da-drawer-of-tt-hardware to check if it is still there.

The best way is to use a netusbee where you can transfer files over the network. There is a program also that you can transfer over serial cable that I used to use. But netusbee is way much faster and easier. Cosmosex is also a fantastic device that you can do a lot of other things too, but good luck finding one.

@Killjoyy27 purchased an amiga 1000 from me. He is a great communicator, friendly and easygoing. Paid immediately and I am very happy my amiga is now in a good home that will get loads of love!

Up for sale is an amazing Orange Micro OrangePC 620 Windows Compatibility card. This PCI card can be used on some Apple PowerMac Macintosh computers to allow the user to run MS-DOS, Windows 95 (and I think Windows 98) natively. You can switch between PC and MAC. It is really cool, just like the bridge board for the amiga but this one is really fast and has a VGA built in 🙂 The sticker says it has an AMD K6-2/400MX processor which if I remember from when I used this card is correct. It also has a built-in VGA. The real nice thing about this card -vs- the Apple PC Compatibility or other OrangePC cards is that it has a VGA output and a VGA input connector. The VGA-in can be used with an Apple to VGA adapter to send the Apple signal into the card (optional), and the VGA-out will output the PC output on a VGA screen. Or you have one monitor for the Mac and one for the PC 🙂 PC sound will be emitted from your PowerMac's speaker or sound-out! No software included, I can share some websites with good info but you need to be about to set it up with minimal support. The links have all the software I used to make this card run. Asking $330 shipped anywhere in the continental USA. Happy to ask any questions. Thank you.

Sold here! Thank you.

Hi folks! I am selling my amiga 1000 on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/204538600759 I am willing however to sell it on this marketplace for $570 + shipping if you are willing to do PayPal f&f or $595 + shipping with PayPal goods and services (so ~4% more to cover my seller's fees). Thanks for looking!

Ok. What I know for sure is that a USB disk drive will get you no where, so I suggest forget about it. I also don't think anyone suggested to use one of those. I also know for sure that I use a PC 1.44 HD disk drive on my GreaseWeazle and I wrote .ST and .ADF disks for Atari ST and for Amiga. I don't think we are all saying different thing or coming forth and back. What @ijor was saying in the part you quoted above was the details as to HOW GreaseWeazle -vs- floimg work: I was thinking that probably both solutions work similarly (not as an end result, but as the mechanics of how things get done) and he corrected me that GreaseWeazle is operating at a lower level than floimg. Both are valid solutions from writing .ST images to your floppies.

I use a 1.44MB PC drive. The beauty of the GreaseWeazle is that it is driving every part of the drive exactly as it is needed, so it will write and read any known format. Do with a bigger capacity drive you can write small capacities and any format. If you use a DD Atari drive you still have all the format but limiting yourself on the capacity. By the way, probably floimg does exactly the same thing using the floppy controller. BTW, does anyone know where is Paranoid Little Man, the writer of floimg? He used to be very active in this forum but haven't seen him for months...

Thank you! I put a lot of thought before choosing it. I determined Larry was one of the video game characters that marked my teenage years. Sonny Bonds too, but Larry was a bit more wild... With GreaseWeazle you can also use 5.25 floppies. Not useful for the ST but for DOS based or other retro computers. I am using this device a lot, you will like it.

BTW... I believe that if you format a disk on the Atari, you can use your USB drive to move files from your PC to the disk. But that means you will have to extract them from the .st format. Also I think there might be some tricky situations where file permissions might mess things up...

No, I don't think you are good to go 🙂 floimg doesn't work with USB floppies, it needs low level access which USB doesn't cater for. I haven't used floimg but seems like a decent way to go, but you need a floppy with a floppy controller on the motherboard. with USB on a modern PC you will need a GreaseWeazle. but there might be other options if you wait from others to add...

This is what I use: https://github.com/keirf/greaseweazle You need a USB device that you will connect a floppy drive and run this software to write many different floppy formats (.st, .adf etc) All the info is on the link. I love it. (Relatively) cheap and does a great job.

That is great info to know, thank you @bent_pin! Actually I got an email from what saying they refunded the buyer but at the same time I am not liable and not touching my funds... I suppose eBay had their insurance that cover them for cases like this... Shame however scammers and up profiting... This affects all of us negatively in the long term...