larrylaffer

Hi folks, Looking to buy or trade for an original OS/2 package with original disks and manuals. Version 4.xx is ideal, but 3.xx also works. Thanks for looking.

I have two of those and although they are nice and fit the computer beautifully I am not really using them as I keep my STs in a cupboard. You can get them from Poland for $33.83, pay $22 shipping and who knows when they are going to arrive with this stupid virus that is delaying everything, or you can have them shipped within US for $30 + shipping each, or both for $60 shipped. Let me know if you are interested, you are getting the high quality plastic dust cover and the original box. The Atari 1040STF shown is NOT included in the deal 😉 Thanks for looking

The same way you can have a floppy drive and a hard disk, exactly the same way things work with a gotek and a cf. In my a4000 I have a CF, a 3.5inch floppy (df0:) and a gotek (df1:). They all work happily together.

PM sent. Unfortunately no spare a1000 mouse in case someone else can help...

I can't remember but I will check my amiga mice at when I get back home and PM you. Do you live in US?

By "original amiga 1000 mouse" you mean the one with the angled connector? Or you are good with any amiga original mouse? The a3000 one is the "pregnant" one, but I just can't remember what's different with the a1000 mouse... The angled connector is the only thing that comes to mind...

PM sent for everdrive

From documentation and the article I posted above it seems like there is good mouse and video card support. I am curious about sound, but for sure running win 3.1 will be one of the first things I will try when I get things up and running...

I understand where you are coming from 🙂 (most probably thinking of memory protection which 286 has) but I have win 3.11 (which is 3.1 + networking support) on another 286 based emulator board.

Two thoughts/questions: 1. What is so fundamentally different between win 3.0 and win 3.1 that a 286 could run the first but not the second? 2. Could it be that the at-speed board was produced and sold before win 3.1 were released?

According to this, it does... but I haven't installed it yet, so cannot confirm our not... maybe @guus.assmann can tell us...

Ok! So it seems like I have the "lite" at-speed... it doesn't have neither an fpu socket nor a crystal... see the attached picture... So I guess back to square 1 for me since I don't know if my version will work on an mste... I don't trust much the documentation that came with it, in many places it was referring to pc-speed and not at-speed. Pc-speed for those who are not familiar is the 8086 version of the emulator.

Yeah, as @guus.assmann mentioned I was hoping there is such an adapter. @guus.assmann do you have the schematics for the AT-Speed and figured out that the 286 has its own clock? Can you confirm please if you have actually done this? Can anybody recommend an adapter that works well? I really would like to avoid to re-open the MSTE and resitting the adapter. once in a while..

Please check and let me know.... thanks

I did a bit more research on the overclocking side of the world... The CPU on the AT-Speed that I have is a Siemens S 2140787, and according to this website: http://www.cpu-collection.de/?tn=0&l0=cl&l1=80286&l2=Siemens its core and FSB frequencies are rated at 10MHz. Now, we know that manufacturers rate lower than what the chips can sustain, but I have serious doubts about the stability of this board at 16MHz... But the other questions remain: will it work at 8MHz (and not get damaged when clocked 16MHz?) and if not, has anyone confirmed (or not) it works with an STE?

While I was testing my Channel F it suddenly got quiet 😞 Of course the first thing I did is check the power supply and measured exactly 0V across both blue/yellow and white/blue... So now I need a 10/15V AC power supply (I stupidly thought at the beginning it was 10/15 V DC, but then I read carefully what was written on the power supply and correlated it with the age of this console, so realized it is worse than that). Does anybody have a spare working one? Thanks!

Hi folks, I just got my hands on an AT-Speed 286 emulator card. I read quickly through the installation instructions and it sounds like I just need to solder the board and piggy back it on the 68000 of an ST. The instructions were referring to the 520ST, STF and Mega ST models. But my main ST machine is my Mega STE. I guess the 16MHz of the MegaSTE clock is not going to go down well with this AT-Speed board, but if I change the clock to 8MHz through an accessory, would it work? Most importantly, is this dangerous for the board as most of the time it will be getting 16MHz on a pin that is expecting 8? Has anybody tried this combination, and did it work? Maybe it can even overclock the 286 on the AT-Speed 🙂 But I don't want to risk it. I also have an STE that is my second best option. Anyone tried it on the STE? Thanks!

That's a "maybe not"

You know what? I am an idiot! I haven't fired up my 130XE for long time and I totally forgot about the color cycling part! So when I got this board and I left it in BASIC, when the colors started changing I thought something was wrong. I even repeated it a couple of times and then I posted... I did load up a game and left it for 30 mins. All is working fine... So false alarm, and sorry for crying wolf without thinking! As for the "overhearing" part... It was my phone "auto-correcting" for overheating... What a mess I made... The good thing about this thread is that I found from @leech heat sinks for the right size, which since the board is naked right now I will buy and install just to relieve those two poor chips in an attempt to extend their lives a bit longer... Thank you all!

Why do this when I know that even at idle the graphical corruption happens within 5 mins? For sure the board has a problem. If it is because of these two chips overheating or not might be another question.

Hi folks! I have an 800xl board that boots fine to READY. If I leave the board idle, Sally and Antic start heating up. In fact they get hot and cool down with different frequency. I don't have a proper thermometer but I can tell they get pretty hot at their peak... About after 5 mins of heating up/ cooling down the screen starts changing colors and this is where I just power off and wait for them to cool down. Any pointers on debuging this? I also noticed that tapping lightly with my finger at the area between the psu connector and the rf modulator does create momentary (but very mild) noise on the video signal, so I guess a broken soldered join might be involved? The psu is fine, it is my trusted xl/xe psu that does work with all my other 8 bits. I haven't noticed any other chip heating. Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

Is this the power led or the hdd led? I don't have a solution unfortunately, but this is very common with the TTs and the Mega STE hdd leds... if you find a solution I guess few if is would be interested to know.

Correct. They have the same internals as far as I know, and I have been using my mega ST keyboard on my mega STE for a while. Eiffel is also a good option if you don't mind mixing non-Atari peripherals with your Ataris. In fact in my setup I have a KVM with a PS2 mouse and keyboard connected to my Atari st(e)s and Amigas using small modern interfacing gadgets that translate PS2 to Atari/amiga mouse/keyboard interfaces.

Or if you don't want to make something handmade as PLM suggested, you could use a mega ST keyboard. They are expensive but cheaper than the mega STE ones.

Second in line! Sending PM.