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loggahead

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About loggahead

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    Space Invader
  1. IT WORKED!!!!!! Blinky, thanks a million!!!! Your package sure beat the one from CA! Im going to have to get USPS tracking the other. I had a hard time desoldering the holes to put the socket in you sent. I finally got it soldered in, but the pins don't come out the bottom of the board. Although its not all the way through, it is in there snug as a bug. I fired it up with Joust in and played a successful 2 player game without any hitches!!! Thanks so much for the diagnosis and cure! -logga
  2. This sucks. My $20 package from Best Elec that had my .29 cent 4050 chip in it is lost!? Tracking showed it shipped on the 3rd of September but has no more info on the package. I called the USPS and they couldn't put a trace on it because their system was down. ARRRGH. I am not too fond of the USPS right now. I wish I could just send Best Elec .50 cents and have them drop me the chip in the mail! hehe Anyway, I was just leaving an update. I am down in Pensacola, FL and we just got hit by a major hurricane and have been without facilities for awhile and have just begun to get things back to normal. I still want to get this 2600 fixed though. My soldering iron over here is getting lonely. -logga
  3. Yeah, it ocurred to me after I posted what you meant. I didn't even know I could do that. doh!? I wish I would have ordered one. You think Radioshack would have a socket that would fit that chip? -logga
  4. I am not sure what you meant by getting a socket with it. To my knowledge I didn't. Looking at the chip on the board I only need to solder the new one in right? -logga
  5. Update: I just mailed out a check to Best Electronics for a 4050 chip. It was only $0.29 cents! But my min order had to be $15, well I needed a 7800 power supply also, so all is good. Best Elec, said that if the chip doesn't work that it could also be a bad capacitor? Anyhow, thanks for the info on replacing this chip Blinky, I will post a reply when I get the chip and give it a go. -logga
  6. Ok, I tried the RIOT, Stella, and CPU chips from my working 2600A and the 6-switcher still does the same. I also went over the PCB with some rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush and cleaned it thoroughly. Next chip, the 4050? -logga
  7. Ok, cool. Great info. I don't have the broken 6-switcher here with me, but I am looking at my 4-switcher and I don't see a 4050 chip. I take it that was only on the 6-switchers? Looking at this 4-switcher, I see the C010745 (CPU) and the C010750 (RIOT) and they both have an Atari logo on them, but the Stella chip looks a little newer and has an "S" logo on it. It's number is C010444D. Odd, this is the Atari I have had since a kid and have never had any work done it. BTW, I am having a blast troubleshooting this. I am excited about all of this because my son (who is curently 3 months old) is going to be able to play the same games I played when I was his age. I've liked playing just about every console out there from the 2600 on up, I am even an XBOX fanatic. But one thing is for sure, they just don't make video games like they used to. I played and beat Pitfall II this morning and man was I in heaven. Although my highscore wasn't near what it could have been If anyone is interested, I won a couple of EBAY auctions online to piece together some orignal joysticks and such and am selling the spoils. No one has bid yet and it ends today in case you are interested. It is a 7800, 2600 jr., and a couple of sticks. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...me=STRK:MESE:IT -logga
  8. I'll check the PCB one more time for goo and such. I will also try reseating the dip chips. I have another 2600 (a 4 switch model). I was thinking of pulling the chips out of it and putting them in the broken 2600 (a 6 switcher) to find which chip is bad. They are cross compatible right? Does anyone have a pic of a 2600 or 2600a PCB that they could point out what chip is what? I noticed there are three on both PCB's of mine. I assume that is the CPU, Stella, and RIOT. I just do not know which is which. Thanks so much for all the help guys! -logga
  9. but come to think of it . . . . I did seem to think that the sound of the tanks on Combat sounded a little odd. Then again, it could have just been my imagination. As long as you are playing with a joystick on port 1 and only playing single-player, the console seems to work great! -logga
  10. I have had some issues with TV output, when the second joystick button is pressed, the screen distorts badly and it makes both players fire/jump. On Best Electronics, is a RIOT chip the standard I/O chip? And also, is it just a matter of pulling the chip out of its dip socket and replacing it with the new one? -logga
  11. Are you referring to the dip chips on the mainboard? I am not sure if this one is a heavy-sixer because the the serial is gone on the bottom. It is the same make wilth the joystick ports close together on the back of the console at the bottom. I noticed the mainboard that the joystick ports are on has some dip chips on it. I read somwhere that Atariage.com has schematics, is that true? And if so, where can I get replacement chips? Or should I just look for another one on Ebay. Unfortunately, this one is from Ebay. -logga
  12. Unfortunately I don't I have a Sega Nomad (portable Genesis) but no extra controllers. Any other ideas? -logga
  13. Hello All, I have a 2600 console that I cannot play through the second joystick port. When a stick is plugged into the second port and the the fire button is pressed, the screen distorts (it looks like it does when you are on the wrong channel). The screen stays distorted until you let go of the fire button. Here is something even wierder, if you are playing a 2 player game (I tried both combat and joust), when the fire button is pressed on the second stick, it acts as if both sticks' buttons were pressed. I tried different sticks and games. I trid cleaning all the connections and no change. The soulder points seem to be in good shape, any other ideas? -logga
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