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Posts posted by Cassidy Nolen
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Vertical deflection is easy enough to adjust, the retrace on the horizontal width is controlled differently. Read up and understand how the basic system functions and then adapt to your game and see whether you can adjust it or not. Bob has some great stuff on there, also do a search of horizontal width adjustment on RGVAC.
HTH,
C
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Funny you mention it...I FINALLY put the back cover on it for the first time this week. Of course the PCB pressed the reset button and it just kept resetting. After fixing that I had to remill the fascia so it would not hold down the screen bright button. You get the idea.
I have jokingly nicknamed it "white elephant" as it is proving to be illusive. I have the wares to make a second one, that more likely will be what I can sell. At this point, I HAVE to finish this one...I am stubborn LOL
The second one will be easy....all bugs are worked out on this one. To date, I have machined 12 different cases for it, thats just the front half. The back with the battery....I don't want to talk about it!C
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Bump N Jump was a favorite game growing up. I must have played that game at Chuck E. Cheese more than any other. It was a game I could play for longer than 20 seconds without dying.
One offer so far, very reasonable. I will consider it. Thanks for putting the word out on it, folks.
Cassidy
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Up for sale I have my prized NEO GEO AES US system. This is not the Japanese version, this is the gold home edition, complete with manuals, memory card, second controller, RF modulator, RCA cable, original power supply, box and styro insert.
I have seven boxed games that I am including; all are US releases (with labels) with manuals and original cases. The games are:
Samurai Shodown II
King of the Monsters
Riding Hero
Blue’s Journey
Burning Fight
Ghost Pilots
Nam 1975
These games represent a good cross section of what the console can do. I have a second controller (not included in the Gold system but with my package) and a memory card that was compatible with the arcade MVS versions of some games/machines.
This system was king of the hill for many years in the 90’s. Obviously, you know that. What I find amazing is how well the games have aged. Two people can sit down and play Ghost Pilots for hours, its just a great game. Burning Fight is everything Final Fight tried to be, but the graphics are much better and the gameplay is smoother, in my opinion. Samurai Shodown is still a great 2D fighter.
I have to sell this, I don’t want to. Money is needed for other things. It is not perfect, it is going on 18 years old; I would give the overall package a strong 9 out of 10 and I am VERY picky. The joysticks show some scratches and the ball grip on the ends have some “marble” looking lines running through them. They are still tight and work perfectly with strong clicks when buttons are depressed (mostly because I only have one fighting game!) It still shows amazingly well and plays flawlessly. For some reason, I remember there being a second styro insert, I cannot find it to save my soul. I will continue to look for it and as soon as I find it, it is yours as well. If you check around, I am reliable on these boards, just can’t put my hands on it right now.
If you need pics of it playing, let me know. All the games work flawlessly too. I am asking for $485 shipped in US for this package. You can make offers but please know, I know what they are worth and won’t give it away. Please plan to pay extra for insurance if you wish. PM me if you are interested. Thanks, I would also consider a payment plan if that was necessary.
Cassidy
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Finally got around to testing...sure enough, the Gemini makes you push right on the joystick to "fire" on paddle games.
If you don't have a switch of some kind in line, the fire button is pressed every time you go "right" with the joystick when a paddle is wired up.
I know this because my portable design made it hard to add another switch (which I retooled and did) but not without some effort.
Thanks for the input.
C
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http://elektronforge.com/ fixes them but you MUST for your own sake send the power supply board too. I sent just one and I installed the perfectly repaired board only to have my crappy harness and power supply take it out in SECONDS.
Those have very sensitive RAM as I recall and they do not like any fluctuation in -5 Volts AT ALL.
Cool game when its working. Very Star Wars in design, you can really see the influence, I think.
HTH,
C
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I know last year Pinball Museum in Las Vegas had a nice but dead machine in the back of the lineup. May want to offer it to them? Good karma sort of offer, I don't know what they could give you for it. pinballmuseum.org
If you cant find a buyer, maybe I could trade you some parts you do need for it? I'd love to have another one someday and the pcb sometimes is the deal-maker.
Cassidy
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Pinball: Roy Clark The EntertainerI had one of those once! Bizarre piece. There was a local op who bought them all for pizza places. They are like cocktail pinballs as I recall, and nobody does board repairs on them.
Here's to obscure games!
C
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HI all,
How did the Gemini manage to have a paddle and a stick in the same plug. The best I can figure, everytime you pressed left, it thinks the fire button is pressed on the paddle. Any schematics on the web? Figured I'd ask before I disassemble and investigate.
Thanks,
Cassidy
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I have kept these because I love them all:
Star Wars Cockpit (ESB kit installed)
Burgertime
Bump N Jump (Midway version)
Centipede
Tempest
Pac Man
Soon to be reunited with the group
Trak 10 cabaret (try finding one of those!)
and until it finds a west coast home soon
Computer Space 2 Player
AFA wanted games, not really any particulars at this point. Maybe a clean upright Night Driver, twin HydroThunders but they would be so out of place in my collection...
Cassidy
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"Found" for free:
Missile Command upright in PERFECT shape, needed a board.
Star Wars cockpit, still running fine in my basement...I installed the ESB kit

Found "cheap"
Breakout, needed a harness repair, 20 bucks
Tron, same 25 bucks
Satan's Hollow, minus monitor 5 bucks. Battery backup still worked when I got it, obviously I removed it.
Neo Geos for about 40 bucks.
1942, 20 bucks
I honestly can't remember them all....
From distributors...
Probably 20 Pole Positions, no kidding, and enough boards to get most of them running.
5 or 6 Pongs and B&W games over the years, not even sure on names of them all.
Had to buy back old pieces that I was upgrading and I ended up with a Pole Position II cockpit for about 50 and a Ms. Pac for the same.
When you are in the business for a while, you make the connections. The vendors think this stuff we love is all crap that doesn't make money...let alone worth time to fix.
C
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5 inch color screen, control boards for buttons, all buttons, battery (1000ma) with charger all wired up to a FB2 fitted with a working cartridge port?
I am losing momentum on the project. I have the toolpath written for an oak case and would include the front half of one, could even design the rear half. I have enough parts to build 2 of them but losing interest on completing it....
The worst part is, I know how close I am to being done. Its just taken me so long (I have spent a year working on this) and I simply am losing focus.
Anyone?
Cassidy
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Once or twice
The standard in the industry is 50/50 split, you cover all maintenance costs. I would suggest NEW (not some crappy ones) coin cutters, they are not expensive and they save on your service calls. Rotate your pieces regularly (get two or three places and swap them around) and always come to count money at a good time for the establishment (early for bars, late for laundromats, you get the idea). Pizza places, bars, laundromats, Elks lodges, private places, you know. Not Wal-Marts or big chains, they have contracts. Don't think you are going to bump another operator either. They all talk and you are the new kid in town...takes years to establish yourself.
Is it worth it? Yes. Is it easy? No. I got an in with a pizza place once just by fixing one of their private machines for free. AFter that, I was their main supplier and repair tech, eventually got one of their best locations. It takes years though to develop that stuff.
C
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Thanks for the update. I suppose I can try a 4K game when I get home and see how that turns out....
If thats the case, you can update the list with Pac Man Jr. Game plays but the dots are left behind. I see that some of them actually split (as if one of the scan lines disappears) but that could be on my tiny screen too.
Really appreciate the insight. If anybody has a modded one and a PMJr. cart around, would love to see results

Cassidy
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Great game, congrats. I would suggest doing the "bulletproofing" kit on your monitor, sort of a shotgun approach to repair it but worth doing. Reflowing all the connections on the pins helps MANY problems on that monitor.
As for the ESB kit, I would be careful who you get it from. I would suggest if you do wrangle a deal, that you have the seller list it on ebay or something and you have a binding agreement...I have had some issues with the later of the two names listed here....
Looking out for others...Cassidy
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Hi all,
Did the hack, no sweat. Fired up Pac Man Jr. and sure enough it plays and you can select all the games. Now the problem is you still see the dots after you eat them. The score indexes but you don't get rid of the dots.
Basically, if I see this stuff on the screen, I did my hack right, correct? If it was wrong, the cart would not play? I only have this one cart with me now so I cannot test it until later. Its driving me nuts to know though.
I suppose I should add that it is running on an RC car battery pack, controlled by a handmade control D-pad microswitch inputs, its been cut down to fit inside a portable case and using a 5 inch LCD portable screen....
Wonder where this is going....
Any thoughts? Thanks,
Cassidy
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If you can get access to an industrial oven (maybe at a high school shop class or community center) you could recoat them and bake it on. Looks much better than Krylon. If you do need to do the spray paint method, I would suggest a chemical stripping agent, then 120 or finer sanded finish. Go with the Industrial Grade spraypaint Home Depot has, its called "Professional" and just is a thicker paint. I would suggest 2-3 primer coats, then wetsand with 400 grit paper, finally after a day to dry from that, then I would shoot 1 or 2 top coats. That is going to give you a factory like appearance. Its a lot of work but well worth it if you want a clean piece.
Good luck with them. They are addicitve!
Cassidy
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MC is notorious for having board issues. I would start with a new blue capacitor in the bottom of the machine. If that and some new fuses doesn't get you going, I would start pin by pin looking for power on your AR2 board and go from there...a few places sell working boards online. I don't know of a company that takes on Pole Positions or Missile Commands. Maybe somebody here knows?
Ast. monitor probably needs to have all the pins resoldered on the boards. Its not bad to do, and all you are trying to do is get rid of an intermittent connection between 28 year old solder and a steel pin. Reflow some fresh solder on those connectors and you should be good to go. The fact you see stuff, and I am assuming you see it all over the screen, is good. Let me know if you have a "quadrant" or a "half" of the screen out...could be something else.
HTH,
Cassidy
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Where in MD? We are game for some pics
If its super clean I could get interested...Cassidy
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Even if you can't buy anything there, you should go to the Pinball Hall of Fame while you are out there (pinballmuseum.org). Some of the best times I have had in Vegas were there...imagine a Saturday night, low lights and an arcade. Its like a time machine with Orange Crush in the glass bottles, no kidding.
Cassidy
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I'm moving this topic over to Emulation as I see you have a few questions about it. I think they might be better questions for that forum. Hopefully you'll get some help getting it going.
Good luck man!
Cassidy
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I am not sure where the breakdown is. My computer sees the Wii is on it, connected I should say but the Wii cannot go online. It could be the dongle is bad, I don't think so though. I think its odd that it worked fine until I installed 2008 and now it does not.
Basically, can I go in and tell the Norton program to let this thing work? I think right now its set up to just "do stuff on its own" and not tell me about it (instead of a million pop ups saying "someone is remotely accessing...should I stop it?....duh...).
Thanks for the thoughts all. I really want to get back online with it.
Cassidy
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I'm going to go out on a limb and say that "laserdisc" player is not quite stock! Nice [email protected] I am also guessing it is FAR more reliable than the unit I sold a few years back....that LD alignment prcedure is brain-melting.
I wonder if you could put the roms for some other LD games on that HD? Whats it like to play Space Ace or Time Gal in a cockpit?
Very cool machine!
C
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I have a lot of respect for many collectors and collections but I can safely say Rick and Bfstats are the front runners here IMHO.
Bfstats has sold off more stuff than most of us will ever have. The "room of doom" he assembled looks like a game store, circa 1982 and is in true mint condition. His commitment is a life-long collection. He never strayed to another console, the "next best thing" etc.
Rick is one of those collectors that makes the cornerstones of the community. These are the players that are part of the fabric, foundation, etc. of the hobby and contributions need to be viewed over a long period, not who is most acitve this month on the AA forums.
Either one gets my vote, this year or any until they are both in.
Don't get me wrong, plenty of others deserve to be in there, too. These are the front two I think.
Cassidy

Cleaned up the ol' Vader..
in Atari 2600
Posted
Simple Green works great for me. Take it apart, use and old toothbrush and have a number of paper towels around.
Cassidy