Cassidy Nolen

No, you are correct. I have owned the real deals and they are indeed microswitched on each degree of rotation. I would imagein and ipac could encode for that or at least be programmed to? Eh, you know, might not be worth it. Wild Western holds a special place to me, so it would be worth it for me on emu. I owned the real one and nobody played it in the gameroom....out it went C

Dangit. I spent my lunchtime today drafting the base for this thing....now I need to be sure its a close-to actual size. The top will be a PITA....thinking it needs to be multiple pieces so its easier to mill the lettering on my 3 axis.... BTW, MasterCam X is NOT forgiving of scans, drawings, etc. Its professional grade stuff, the tradeoff is that it is SUPER picky on what it chains, cuts, edges, etc. C

Too much huh? I can always go down but can't go up. How about $25 shipped in the US for both? OR something off my trade lists for the 2600: www.atarionline.com/wantedlist2.html or Sears games I need boxed: http://atarionline.com/sears.html

Get on rec.games.video.arcade.marketplace and find someone nearby. You should be able to buy a 19 inch monitor NEO GEO single slot (one game cart at a time, just like a game console) for under 200 bucks. A 25 inch monitor one will cost you more, most likely it would be a dedicated (came from the factory that way) piece for around 350-450. Mind you, these prices were 2 years ago. Things could have moved since then. The pong at 200 is too much, unless you LOVE it. Generic pongs are dirt cheap, like 50 bucks. The Atari ones held their value but are not that common to just find around. Upright would be 800-1000 and a cocktail or barrel one would be a little less (? debateable as they are more rare but less desireable). Flying/paying shipping defeats the purpose. There are a crapload of games within a 50 mile area of you, I am sure. These things are everywhere, even if you don't know where to look yet Bubble Bobble and Metal Slug are must haves for the NEO. You take the cartridge out with the machine switched off and swap them. They only work in NEO machines, like an NES game only works in an NES. Neo home systems (AES) games DO NOT work in an arcade (MVS) system. Similar and can be modified but do not directly fit. Hope that helps some. Don't get too in over your head at first. Save that for later LOL C

I'd be down to try a wood one. I have some model foam to work from. My drawings of the system would be crude by comparison to some. Strattsp if you have a STL model or Solidworks file, I would give it a stab. My cutting base is "slightly" smaller than a 2600 so it might be more like a 90% size than a full scale but I can scale drawings. This would be cool to do. I have been doing car parts this past year...would be fun to try games again. Did I mention how tempermental my machine was/is? C

Remember these? I got them years ago as a store was closing out these two systems. They are silkscreened onto pretty heavyweight vynil (clear) and are about 7 inches by 25 inches (same size as the game store headers used to be). No yellowing. Would like to find them a good home....any takers? How about: $35 for both (shipped in the US) OR $20 each plus 3 for shipping (in US, international would be actual charge). PM me if interested. Have a few odds and ends I am selling over the coming weeks. No rares just dupes Have a few Pong flyers left...will try to get a pic of one up soon.... Cassidy

FTWIW, If you do go with a spinner, make it a "push" style if you can. That way you can play Tin Star, Wild Western and Frontline C

Qix Naughty Boy (oh wait, you said that don't suck, right? ) Crazy Kong (same as DK I know but if you are a purist) Bump N Jump I am sure there are others, thats all I can think of this morning... C

Philly Classic 5 had one, Videotopia's Jeff brought it IIRC. Pretty neat machine, hard to find from what I have heard. The non-video nature made it prime "smashin" when it broke. Very few non-vids survived (try to find a Nutting Computer Quiz!). C

The story is pretty neat: Nolan "took" the idea of Pong from Ralph Baer's Odyssey system. That part is documented. Lawsuits settled, etc. and then Ralph "took" the Touch Me idea into what MB would release as Simon. Interesting how two folks got fame for the "other design" and not their own. There was indeed an arcade Touch Me. The handheld is modeled after it. http://klov.com/game_detail.php?game_id=12694 Cassidy

Simply amazing. Thank you Mr. Fulop for your continued support of this community. We are so fortunate to have the pillars of our hobby so accessible. Please know your efforts are appreciated and will be for many, many years to come. It was an honor to meet you in 2001 at CGE and it really makes me proud to be a collector when contributions like this are made. Often the "fans" of something are pretty far removed from the source. This is fantastic. Cassidy

A friend of mine has had 2. Currently his is in "limbo" as he is trying to buy back his original. As for value, 5-800 I think is conservative. I have never seen one in good shape for under 700. Really clean, you're in the 9-range. The machine is a great party piece. Not much to look at, I think the Atari Asteroids table is about the only good "looking" one they made. The Tempest, Space Duel, Centi and Millipede cabinets lack a visual element to me. Not that the gameplay is not great, just the cabs...in other words, go look at a Warlords cocktail in person before you buy one. Check VAPS and see who has one in your area before you buy it. If you see it can fit into your collection, way to go. Otherwise, an upright is a much cheaper alternative. My.25 cents, C

I've only ever seen Neo's and conversions in those cabs. May have been a trivia game? Usually wood grained paneling on the sides. Not one I would pick out as classic, looks like it was designed for easy conversions (meaning many years after the golden age). C

Marco, The original (the only one I have EVER heard came factory) was a GE 13 knob-type tv. The volume and on/off switch are still used. The tuner was disabled with what John's Jukes (in Canada) described to me as a simple bias circuit which I was never able to duplicate. At one time, I know he had a spare tv for it. Not cheap but its original. Jeff from Videotopia.com had some sort of closed circuit tv camera monitor showing a very nice screen image a few years back. I'll pm you some other details. C If you don't know about computerspacefan.com make sure you register your machine too

LOOKIN GOOD man! I used to use an exacto blade knife strapped to a pencil with packaging tape as a guide then cut a straight line where the control panel overlay "bends" and chips off. That way I could make a clean cut on the bottom edge and touch it up with black enamel paint. I had a Galaga that looked factory fit that way (of course if you knew the game had a one piece overlay then it didn't but it was clean and true). Glass looks great. Seems its really coming along nicely! Way to go! The pics are great. C

Are you keeping the Laserdiscs or selling? Always looking for a few more.... C

From your posts, I think you are trying to plug the Atari cord, which looks like a standard RCA fitting into your TV. When you asked if there is a 3 way adapter this confirmed. The reason I think you don't see anything is you are hooking it up to an RCA connector on your TV and NOT through the RF. RF signals are as old as TV's are. In the early days, we used those screw type connectors, then replaced by screw in type cable tv connections. The Atari was sort of new-school in that they used a rca-style connector to go through that TV switch box, presumably so you could leave the silver box on the tv and take the Atari off without unscrewing things? The adapter you need to make it work on a channel 3 or 4 would be http://www.atariage.com/store/index.php?ma...;products_id=42 If you don't have this, or some reasonable version of it, you won't see snow on your set turn to anything, you have the system incorrectly hooked to a video input, not an rf input. While an Atari can be modified to work on those RCA fittings, the way yours is now it will not work. Hope that helps. I could be wrong but I think that is your biggest problem. By the way, I have had plenty of good systems and power supplies that do not have a blue spark when you connect. If you could get a voltmeter to test the power supply, that might be worth doing. Either that or maybe take the power supply to radio shack and have them check it there. The ones here the guys could not do that....I am hopeful maybe they could in your area Cassidy

http://arcadeshop.com/pics/taito-ps.jpg This is an integrated modern power supply with the connections to work on your classic harness. Worth the money to make it reliable if you don't already have the original. Most of the Taitos died because of bad contacts, the batteries and the power supplies got overheated. I have seen MANY with burned terminals, those and Midway and Williams ones. Atari ones tended to fair better (of course they ate edge connectors). HTH. Keep rocking man, you'll get that game some day. It will mean more to you than ANY other in your collection AND you'll STILL have less in it than buying one outright! Cassidy

Yeah, that would be great. Like Philly used to be. You have offices now? Man, I leave a few weeks and.... Make it big enough and I bet lots of folks would come. I would not be able to make it for a game-day but I could be persuaded to go that far for a big trade/swap/vendor show. C

Those are GREAT! Love them all. Very cool. Any idea what to do with them? Maybe matte them and frame? Might be cool over a computer screen I still have three 80's Chuck E Cheese coins (In Pizza we Trust) in my change jar. I think one day I will frame them for the basement. They are year specific (82, 83 and 84 I think is what I have). Its funny how these things so utilitarian become interesting years later. I am sure I tried to use them in soda machines, phones, other arcades, etc. for years. Somehow these rattled around in my change for the past quarter century. C

I am dying to see the show pictures! Anybody want to share their haul photos? Wish I could have made this year. First one in a few years and I already had plans this past weekend. Pics o plenty please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11 C

That should all be in the manual. Do you have that pdf file? The schematics should tell you where coin door lights, reset/tilt switch, etc is all wired. Chances are, if your harness is there they simply just bypassed that stuff so it should all still be there. IIRC the Taito games all used 6 volt socketed marquee lights like a pinball backglass. They are available in bulk from any auto parts distributor (not Pep Boys) or any number of places online. I think its bulb 47? Don't quote me, its been years! Bypassing that coin board is GREAT news for you too. DJP is really helping you out on that one. I would suggest verifying all of your voltages with a voltmeter before you ever hook a board up to that power supply. Each one of the plastic wheels is a trim pot for a voltage, 5, -5, 12 and -12 on that power supply. Theoretically, they should taper the voltage from say 4 volts to 6 on the 5 volt in a linear fashion (small adjustment should change the voltage a small amount). Obviously the others would be about a volt or two in either direction of their intended output. Unfortunately, the pots are old and dirty. I blew a Wild Western board trying to tune while the game was on and the board plugged in. 5 volts spiked up to like 8 and took out some chips. PITA to fix and I had to get help. If I had adjusted them to say 5.2 and maybe 12.5 without the load of the board, I would probably have been fine. I am sure an electronics teacher would crap if they heard me suggest that but its what I have done and it works. I know, its not adjusted under load, but its a place to start. Better than blowing a hard to find board! I have done that on a Black Widow too, made me sick that it happened. In other words, I don't trust original power supplies unless I have "bench" tested them (in your case empty cabinet tested them) first. Call Anthony up, seriously. He is a great guy and might be able to help you find the rest. Tell him you are looking to buy it all at once in a few months and see if he can get it all together for you. That would be a best bet but also expensive. Try coinopwarehouse.com and email Lloyd too. Not going to be cheap but if its on earth, he can find it... Cassidy

There are several auctions in sourthern Jersey each year, big fairground indoor things. The equipment is questionable condition on some, I just don't see why folks beat the crap out of stuff..... Best time of year to buy IMHO (this is after running a number of years) is the fall after Labor day. The beach arcades are pulled, camp grounds are closed, theme parks are done, etc and there is a ton of good stuff. Supply exceeds demand often and people don't want to pay to store, move and then resell the stuff again. In other words, a 2K piece will go 1200 because its cheaper to take the 800 hit than to buy it back, deal with moving and then storage. Avoid the holiday auctions if you can. Too expensive. The spring auctions are great deals on non-operator pieces, in other words pre-Cruizin USA type stuff. If you can run it on location, its being bought to run in the summer money making season. Check on Rec.games.video.arcade.collecting and post your question too. Its been a few years for me so I don't have the auction info sent to me anymore. If you really cant find the dates, let me know and I will call around for you. If you want to drive to VA/DC, I have a number of folks for you to talk to for some arcade purchases Welcome aboard! Cassidy

Its a fairly uncommon game and you are on a budget. Those two don't always go hand in hand (its the reason my Star Wars cockpit does not have the right 25 inch monitor, I feel your pain!). Anthony at Quarterarcade is a great source. If he has those two pieces, maybe you could get him to hold them for you or offer to put some money down on them until you get the rest. The marquee will be the easiest of the pieces to find, as I find folks kept boxes of them and then sell them in bulk at auctions. You'll most certainly find one somewhere. The bezel and control panel (with a decent overlay it appears) are another story. Dont forget the power supply issue on that board. You have to build a delay circuit to run a standard switching power supply. If you need, I can find the schematics. Its a stupid-easy thing to build, but you have to have it unless you manage to run an original power supply in the bottom ! Good luck, great work on the black paint removal. Done that on a Robotron, Defender (already black but still), Galaxian (not worth my time on that one!) and some random others in small sections (curiousity got the better of me). Cab looks great. Cassidy

Hey CC, Hunt around on Rec.games.video.arcade.marketplace and search. I think they were in the 7-850 range a few years ago. The front on that one is not flawless and I don't know how much repro overlay stuff is being made for that one....worth investigating. 1K seems strong, but if its clean, does not need a monitor or joystick work, etc. might not be out of the question. You might be amazed what 700 cash in someones face will do. If they have it out there, most likely they are ready to move it. Cash in hand is a POWERFUL motivator Cheers, C