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batari last won the day on August 7

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  1. Look, I know I am being a bit hard on you about fixing these shells. Fact is, I would love it if there were a quality shell out there I could use for my own projects! But, these are simply not adequate for my projects unless you fix these the right way. I stand behind the quality of my stuff, and the quality of the shell is a part of that equation. If the shell is not up to snuff, I could see myself getting myriad returns and losing money and customers if I were to use these. That isn't worth it to me, at any price. My posts here are intended not as ribbing but as motivation for you to listen to what we are saying and make these shells better, and I have suggested a way to do that. If you do fix these shells the right way, you would have a customer in me, and likely in many others as well. If you don't, then chances are someone else will come along and design a better shell, and I would use those instead. If this happens, don't say you were not warned. So this is your chance to make it right.
  2. I am not worried about PCB fitment. PCBs are easy enough to change and I would definitely change a PCB to fit in a good quality shell. The only valid option here is to widen the sides of the shells. Literally a few minutes on the milling machine is all you need to fix the molds.
  3. This shell is too flexible to go without snaps. Other shells were able to forgo the snaps but these shells are designed differently. If you look at Coleco shells for the 2600, they are able to go without snaps at the bottom because the side walls of the shell are thick. The Atari shells taper from wide at the opening to thin on the side walls. There is no reason why you need thin side walls. Atari probably did it to save on plastic, which is probably a fraction of a penny each, but a lot when making millions, I suppose? You may not sell too many if you aren't willing to rework the design some more. That said, you might be able to save this design if you were willing to widen the sides of the shell to the same width as the opening. I know you want to call this "done" but what I am suggesting is simple. Adding thickness to the sides of the shells means removing a bit of material from the molds. But removing material is very easy, in this case. Any machine shop could do it in a few minutes, I am sure, if you explained carefully what you wanted done.
  4. I've never tried it, but I expect that it would work.
  5. 800ma is probably enough for testing purposes, if you can convert that AC to DC. I have run 7800s with a digital power supply, and with a normal cart they run around 630 ma. With a Concerto I've seen 700 ma. If you want something going today, you could crack open another AC adapter that puts out DC and scavenge the rectifier(s) out of it, and use them on the 9v AC one and get DC output at a current sort of close to what you need. This generally only applies to older AC adapters as a lot of the newer ones don't use the old-school transformer plus rectifier method.
  6. They banned Armstrong from future competition and they stripped away all of his most important wins, including Tour de France, but they didn't strip all of his earlier wins.
  7. When you mentioned op-amps, I figured you were going to use the op-amps as filters. I see you are using them as low impedance drivers for the output signal, and to provide gain in your circuit. From my observation it seems you only need the gain because the 75 ohm resistor to ground on the COL side and the pot on the LUMA side may be attenuating the signal a lot. From what I have seen, in general, video mods do not need a whole lot of gain (if any at all) as we are basically starting with 5V digital signal and we want to end up with 1v p-p or something like that. So what I have seen more of is circuits that use a simple BJT amp configured as an emitter follower, which at best provides unity gain, but that may be enough. It is very simple to implement while still having the benefit of being able to drive low output impedance you need.
  8. Concerto itself will be available very soon, like this month! HOKEY may be a while. In the meantime, you can use your own POKEY ship or try one of the other POKEY replacement options.
  9. Based on my own knowledge, I predict that this won’t work, and I’ve given a reason why: degraded phosphors undergo chemical changes. A magnet, on the other hand, does not chemically change the material it magnetized. All magnetizing does is align the spins of the electrons in a material. i can’t say if the phosphor can be magnetized in this fashion or not, but regardless, I don’t think magnetization will brighten anything. It is not magnetization that causes the phosphorescence. Also the phosphor coating isn’t like the “Hairy Harry” magnetic toy we had as kids where we can move magnetic particles around at will. It is designed to stay put. But by all means, try it anyway though. If only for an exhaustive scientific proof of what is being discussed here.
  10. That would be awesome to get a new release done. I am not able to build Windows binaries at the moment, so if you can build one I will test it out and we can get this released before too long.
  11. You can always send it back to me for a free repair. PM for details. Or, if you have basic soldering skills, since you said this is an older cart with the two-board design, there is a chance that the two boards aren't communicating properly with each other. The two boards are connected with a 12-pin header, and it's a 0.1" through-hole which you can usually solder with basic tools. If you have already opened up the cart, and want to try, you can see if reflowing the solder on the pins of this header on both sides, and that may bring it back to life.
  12. The convergence magnets are for the red, green and blue cathode rays to line up properly. Monochrome monitors don't have any convergence to deal with. Plus, the magnets are on the neck of the CRT, not anywhere near the screen. A degraded phosphor has actually undergone chemical changes. What is potentially "magnetic" is the aperture grille or shadow mask, a steel plate behind the screen, but again, this is only present on color CRTs to let the blue, green and red rays through their own individual slots on it, and it actually isn't supposed to be magnetized at all (thus the degaussing coils, that are to demagnetize it.)
  13. There are actually several possible causes for the spinning logo. One is a dirty cart connector, another is dirty/poor contacts on the SD card. I'd clean both with some isopropyl alcohol. Cleaning the console too wouldn't hurt. So were you able to successfully connect to the cart from the programming software? If so you should be able to flash the eeloader. Connecting from Putty or other terminal programs generally won't work, as Harmony uses the flow control signals to reset the cart and boot to the in-system programming ROM, and most terminal programs aren't able to use these signals in the exact way Harmony needs them to.
  14. In short, it's a diagnostic cart used for broken consoles. What it does is throw $EA on the data bus (opcode for NOP, or no operation) so the 6507 will just cycle through all of the addresses then wrap around. The intent is to then use a scope on the individual address lines and see if any are not working as expected. The problem is that the $EA being forced on the data bus is that the cart introduces bus contention across the entire usable address space of the RIOT and TIA chips. While these chips are pretty robust and should be fine with some bus contention, the amount of contention this cart introduces is extreme. If the console is bad anyway, and the tech likely had extra chips on hand that at the time were of minimal cost to Atari, I suppose this wasn't a big deal back in the day if a chip was fried in the process. But today I would not recommend using this cart except as a last resort on an otherwise hopelessly broken console, when all other attempts at repair have failed, and only with the RIOT chip removed from the system (the TIA chip needs to be installed as it generates the clock for the 6507.) That all said, the Kluge most likely won't fry a chip right away and there is a reasonable chance the chips will all survive for long enough to scope the address lines. But, at least one user here has reported frying chips in his console after only a few minutes of using a Kluge.
  15. Magnets only affect color purity on color CRTs. this is why color CRTs have degaussing coils but monochrome CRTs do not. If you put a magnet on it you’ll likely just see a momentary distortion of the electron beam to the screen around the magnet, which will go back to normal once the magnet is removed.
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