wongojack

FYI that I had to get mine replaced

I never really like platformers. I thought they looked like good games, but they never held my attention. I've thought of a lot of different reasons why over the years, and I've recognized that we basically had 2 generations of games that were derivative of SMB, but it's never occurred to me that the NES-Pad was to blame in some way. Gave me something to think about there.

I like a lot of the ones mentioned: Space Invaders, Seaquest, Megamania I'll throw in a vote for H.E.R.O. It seems like I have to play HERO during almost every gaming session.

It'd be a good candidate to set up in a semi-public place like an office. Wouldn't care much about losing the games or getting the system damaged. You're basically giving it away at that price.

I pulled those pads up too. I found several places where it could be connected including the pads right below the designated spot. There was also a pin on the chip that I ended up using as one of the sides of my switch. Basically - glad you figured it out, you can probe around for more options.

+1 for CLRMamePro - Learn to use it and your experience will be better.

Stampede (aka Tapper on Horseback) is kind of like a Tower Defense game. Perhaps there is some code in there as a baseline.

No I did not. I thought that AtariVox was enabled in Stella, but as I played last night there were no voices. Maybe I need a more recent version of Stella?

Bought some 7800 games and they never came. Got my money back through PayPal. Initially there was communication between me and CrimsonAtari, but it came to a complete halt. He'd even sent me an invoice through PayPal with a phone number that I tried to call many times without a response (or option to leave a VM). I agree with this statement: "I don't think CrimsonAtari intended to be a scammerhe just doesn't seemed organized (or conscientious?) enough to sell on a forum like this." He admitted that he had sold previously on this site with a different username which had a short list of all positive feedback. In case he comes back again in the future with a different alias, his name is Ronnie. He is from Pennsylvania and his email address is [email protected]____mail.com

Is this the latest build: mgd_201204.zip? EDIT - I got the bin from the website. Although I had a hard time finding a link to the file. Thanks to another AA user who provided this: http://www.herbs64.plus.com/files/mgd.bin

I have a very nice and complete Armor Battle that I'm planning to offer, and I won't be stingy. PM me and I'll send you some pictures. Mine does not have a price tag on the box . . .

As of Aug 13, this Craigslisting reads: "im selling an Atari 5200. it has only been used once and works perfectly and still has the original box and papers. comes with 3 remotes, pac man and dig dug. im asking 150 but am willing to go a little lower."

I benefitted from scaredtowake's massive Intellivision supply. He was easy to communicate with and shipped the items quickly in a well packaged box. Very pleasant experience.

Well I "fixed" it. My solution was to run a piece of wire to the disconnected part of the trace. To do this, I punched two small holes; one is through the trace and another a very short distance away slightly touching but next to the trace. I used one wire from an IDE ribbon cable and threaded it through one of the holes, bending the exposed and stripped end of the wire so it would "hook" through the other small hole. This way I had exposed wire running on top of an area of the trace. On the outside of the mylar, I used superglue to attach the two protruding ends of the wire. This means that I didn't have to use solder or glue on the trace area itself. I was actually kind of surprised this worked. I used some small tweezers to really mash down the wire against the trace and that combined with the glue held it in place as I re-assembled the controller. I attached the other end of the wire directly to the wire from the cable. The cable wires are held in place on the plastic clip by razor claps, so I could just force the end of my wire down into the clamp that held line 7 in place. Once I got the wire attached, I could test (using diode setting) with a meter if the button press still registered on line 7 as I re-assembled the controller. I expected it to stop working as I manipulated and moved that wire into place, but it never did. All the buttons now work and it is re-assembled (and much cleaner). I should have taken photos; but I was pretty focused; and actually, I kind of expected it NOT to work. Here are the things that I will remember if there is a next time: As per the troubleshooting guide, there are 2 pieces of the case that can be removed. The video only shows one piece being removed. The very top piece (not in video) is going to come off eventually because the controller is pretty much impossible to re-assemble with it still attached. You could try to remove it first, but it's probably easier to take apart the controller the way shown in the video and then remove the top section after. I broke off one of the buttons when I tried to force them through their holes as I followed the video. Work the buttons "in" but not up or down as they are attached with a thin piece of plastic to the main body of the controller. Breaking one of these button "arms" wasn't fatal for me as I reattached it by gluing a piece of rubber band as a sort of patch. The buttons are really just floating in place anyway, so you just need something to hold in place while you re-assemble. That one feels looser now, but it works fine. The plastic washer that fits between the mylar for the disc fell out as I was snapping things back in place, but that doesn't prevent functionality, so I'm not pulling things apart to put it back in. Note to stick that in place with a small dot of glue next time. Troubleshooting guide: http://www.intvfunho...q/intv_faq7.php

What was taken and what was put back? The updates are easily more than half the fun!

Here's the video I found that shows how to open the controller up: __ __

My max bid on this is $16.11 http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2F310716021842%3FssPageName%3DSTRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT%26_trksid%3Dp3984.m1426.l2649 I'm not really all that excited about winning it, so I thought I'd share in case someone wants to know how high they need to go.

I got an Inty II from CList that was working pretty great, but it was very dirty. I cleaned up the controllers with some lightly damp Q tips - I really got into the corners around the keypad and wiped down the buttons well. There was dirt caked on. After the cleaning, one of my controllers had a non-working side button - Ooops! Since I've done a lot of work building my own joystick for Inty, this isn't such a big deal. I can use this controller for its keypad and just plug it into my joystick. However, I still wanted to see if I could fix it. Its S2 that isn't working, so I know that is lines 7,8. I tested them both with a meter and found line 7 is not connecting. However it works on S3 and the middle keypad row, so I was thinking that maybe the contacts are just dirty for this button. I took apart the controller with the help of Youtube video. That was not a total disaster, but I did break one of the plastic pieces that I'm not sure will glue back on. I think that isn't fatal, but lesson learned there. The contacts were indeed dirty, so I peeled apart the insert and cleaned the underside very well. I kinda expected this NOT to work because I could get a reading from line 8 on this button - just not line 7. If the contacts were clean enough for 8 then they should be for 7. In the end, the cleaning didn't help. So I found the place where the trace was indeed "broken" on line 7; it's in a corner where the mylar folds. It makes sense that it would fail here, and I think it stopped working because I was putting a lot of pressure on the controller while cleaning it (rather than water actually getting in). So I tried to connect the trace with a "conductive pen" - didn't work. Probably because I'm using the cheapest possible version of this type of thing, but it goes everywhere and when it dries it doesn't conduct at all. It's weird because I've used the same pen to quickly touch up 5200 buttons and it has worked for me there. Anyway, on top of the conductive "ink" not connecting the trace, it seems that it removes the original tracing from the Mylar - great. Basically, I've made it worse in that there is just less trace material than there was before. I'm trying to decide what to do next. Replacing the insert would be ideal, but I don't seem to see those for sale anywhere. If I decide to keep going, I may try to connect a wire to pin 7 at the connector and the other end somehow to the disconnected button. I was thinking maybe I could punch a hole in a wide section of the trace and push a wire through then do some delicate soldering or even just glue it in place so that it makes a connection when pressed. Anyone been through this kind of thing before and have some advice for me. I'm basically thinking of this as a test run for controller repair, so if it fails then I'll learn from it and just use this controller for it's Keypad. I'd love to hear if anyone else has tried to repair these like this and can give me some advice. Maybe that silver epoxy suff would work better?

This review (or whatever it was) bothered me. He's making a gameplay video without reading the manual. Its not like the manual was 60 pages long, it takes less than 10 minutes to read EVERY WORD including the bits about powering on the console and inserting the cart. I know some people feel that a game should be great without reading the manual; like it is some sort of ultimate test. For me not reading the manual for classic games means that I don't get to experience the game fully - which is exactly what happened here.

Is there any source for these that is NOT in Venezuela? There's got to be a stockpile somewhere in the USA - right?

I don't think it is weird. Stampede is a great game. It plays fast and actually works as the designer intended. It gets progressively challenging and is very difficult to master. Its essentially a copy of Tapper which is a great game to copy as you can really pour (pun intended) yourself into the gameplay.

Troubleshooting guide: http://www.intvfunho...q/intv_faq7.php I've read for years that the 5200 power supply will work. I've never tested it but I believe strongly that it does work. The reason is that the purpose of Inty II's AC supply is simply to take the first step of stepping big AC down to smaller AC out of the console (its done inside the console in Inty 1). AC alternates the direction of the positive and negative flow, and AC power is good for travelling over long distances without loosing volts etc. AC is not very useful for logic and other small circuit tasks as it takes additional components to handle the variations in polarity. The Intellivision, like most old consoles wants DC power, and reading through the troubleshooting guide confirms that. The first step is to basically remove the negative voltage associated with AC power (with a -2v exception) and stabilize the voltage to very predictable positive DC voltages. From looking at the guide it seems that we take the 16v AC, strip the negative and end up with 16v of positive DC power which Inty II regulates to some useful voltages at 12v and 5v. This means that any DC power supply that supplies an unloaded voltage between 12 and 16v SHOULD work fine. All you are doing by plugging DC power into the unit is doing some of the work that would normally be done internally. You are removing the negative voltage and giving a stable supply of positive DC power. As long as Inty II can make what you give it into 12v and 5v, it should work fine. Center polarity won't matter because AC supplies switch polarity by definition, so it should be able to take your positive or negative center and do what needs to be done. Assuming Inty II follows the info in the guide, you could test this by disconnecting the logic board internally and plugging in various power supplies - testing the various voltages output according to the guide. This would protect your disconnected logic board from fluctuations and allow you to test the specific voltages to confirm you aren't screwing things up. Edit - Amps don't matter as much as volts. If you think about electricity as water, Volts is the water pressure and Amps is the amount of water. You need to use a supply that supplies the same minimum mA. This means it can supply the amount of electricity per second that the device demands. If the power supply can supply more that's fine because your device will only take as much as it needs.

I get liking the ending on Star Strike, but that is what kinda bothered me about the game. I wish it just kept going and getting harder automatically kinda like Star Wars arcade. However, if I'd played it "back then" I would've liked the ending. Writing this makes we want to play again and try on level 6. . . . Are there hacks for these games?

exactly the type of responses that I was hoping for - thanks guys and keep em coming

This game seems like it is really close to being a great game, but it's not quite there. Is there a "hacks" repository that I can check for game improvements? Mostly, I think it needs to be faster, and just a little more graphical detail would really add. Can you ever shoot the missiles that come at you. Just adding being able to shoot the guided missiles would make this game much better. This was my play list yesterday: B&B Atlantis Astrosmash Stampede Star Strike Mission X Lock n Chase Night Stalker Of those, I think Star Strike was the worst. I'd played it before at a friend's house, but I didn't realize just how shallow the game really is. It almost feels like a demo. Does anyone love this game that could tell me good things about it? I like to hear about games from people who love them. Mission X, Lock n Chase, and NIght Stalker - all close to being great. I wish we could get a version of NS with the stuff they had to cut put back in.