wongojack
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Posts posted by wongojack
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Here's one reaction to this game: "Video of Some Doofus Playing Mission X"
This review (or whatever it was) bothered me. He's making a gameplay video without reading the manual. Its not like the manual was 60 pages long, it takes less than 10 minutes to read EVERY WORD including the bits about powering on the console and inserting the cart.
I know some people feel that a game should be great without reading the manual; like it is some sort of ultimate test. For me not reading the manual for classic games means that I don't get to experience the game fully - which is exactly what happened here.
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If that doesn't work you can always order these eBay Auction -- Item Number: 140930374935
Is there any source for these that is NOT in Venezuela? There's got to be a stockpile somewhere in the USA - right?
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I really like Stampede. Is that weird?
I don't think it is weird. Stampede is a great game. It plays fast and actually works as the designer intended. It gets progressively challenging and is very difficult to master. Its essentially a copy of Tapper which is a great game to copy as you can really pour (pun intended) yourself into the gameplay.
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Troubleshooting guide: http://www.intvfunho...q/intv_faq7.php
I've read for years that the 5200 power supply will work. I've never tested it but I believe strongly that it does work. The reason is that the purpose of Inty II's AC supply is simply to take the first step of stepping big AC down to smaller AC out of the console (its done inside the console in Inty 1). AC alternates the direction of the positive and negative flow, and AC power is good for travelling over long distances without loosing volts etc. AC is not very useful for logic and other small circuit tasks as it takes additional components to handle the variations in polarity.
The Intellivision, like most old consoles wants DC power, and reading through the troubleshooting guide confirms that. The first step is to basically remove the negative voltage associated with AC power (with a -2v exception) and stabilize the voltage to very predictable positive DC voltages. From looking at the guide it seems that we take the 16v AC, strip the negative and end up with 16v of positive DC power which Inty II regulates to some useful voltages at 12v and 5v.
This means that any DC power supply that supplies an unloaded voltage between 12 and 16v SHOULD work fine. All you are doing by plugging DC power into the unit is doing some of the work that would normally be done internally. You are removing the negative voltage and giving a stable supply of positive DC power. As long as Inty II can make what you give it into 12v and 5v, it should work fine. Center polarity won't matter because AC supplies switch polarity by definition, so it should be able to take your positive or negative center and do what needs to be done.
Assuming Inty II follows the info in the guide, you could test this by disconnecting the logic board internally and plugging in various power supplies - testing the various voltages output according to the guide. This would protect your disconnected logic board from fluctuations and allow you to test the specific voltages to confirm you aren't screwing things up.
Edit - Amps don't matter as much as volts. If you think about electricity as water, Volts is the water pressure and Amps is the amount of water. You need to use a supply that supplies the same minimum mA. This means it can supply the amount of electricity per second that the device demands. If the power supply can supply more that's fine because your device will only take as much as it needs.
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I get liking the ending on Star Strike, but that is what kinda bothered me about the game. I wish it just kept going and getting harder automatically kinda like Star Wars arcade. However, if I'd played it "back then" I would've liked the ending.
Writing this makes we want to play again and try on level 6. . . .
Are there hacks for these games?
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exactly the type of responses that I was hoping for - thanks guys and keep em coming
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This game seems like it is really close to being a great game, but it's not quite there. Is there a "hacks" repository that I can check for game improvements?
Mostly, I think it needs to be faster, and just a little more graphical detail would really add. Can you ever shoot the missiles that come at you. Just adding being able to shoot the guided missiles would make this game much better.
This was my play list yesterday:
B&B
Atlantis
Astrosmash
Stampede
Star Strike
Mission X
Lock n Chase
Night Stalker
Of those, I think Star Strike was the worst. I'd played it before at a friend's house, but I didn't realize just how shallow the game really is. It almost feels like a demo. Does anyone love this game that could tell me good things about it? I like to hear about games from people who love them.
Mission X, Lock n Chase, and NIght Stalker - all close to being great. I wish we could get a version of NS with the stuff they had to cut put back in.
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I know it's a common problem around here, but I couldn't stop myself bidding on this one: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2F330970637293%3FssPageName%3DSTRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT%26_trksid%3Dp3984.m1497.l2649
I have a pretty small collection, so there were quite a few in there that I didn't have, and I like the extra controllers.
Box for the voice module is also something that I don't have.
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btw. The DotC title track sounds great on the Intellivision.
Now we're talking!
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Certainly I think your music comment is probably more or less unique to your preferences. I doubt something like that would stop very many other sales, if any, of something like this.
I was just trying to confuse everyone with lots of percentages . . . .
"30% of the time I'm out every time"
But seriously - the DOTC music is great
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The kickstarter has been submitted to Cinemaware, and they will do it after their Wings kickstarter.
The Wings kickstarter failed in 2012 and it was an HD release for mobile platforms and PC. I know DOTC was a more popular game, but if the point of the kickstarter is to release on only Intellevision then I'm skeptical that it will succeed. Perhaps an Inty version will spin off as a result, but I don't see it being the main focus of the kickstarter, and it will probably come much later after the actual updated version is produced.
DOTC also has a disadvantage in that there are soooo many versions available. The GBA version is pretty awesome, and I can get that for way less than $80.
I'd rather see a unique game for Inty with some of the same strategy/story/action elements. I'm more likely to pay $80+ for a new game like that.
Also - if it doesn't have the music then I'm 100% out. The music is like 30% of why I absolutely LOVE this game.
Edit - you clarified the Wings k'starter timing while I was posting
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I'm wondering if the cheap one could be used to do the same thing.
I'd bet $13.61 that it could. I watch for these on Ebay and that model comes up every so often. I'll probably buy one eventually and tinker with it. That is a good price for it btw.
If you want to make your own "hackball," You won't be able to use my info as a guide, but it should be pretty easy to figure out.
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$70 with 10-15 common games, if both controllers are fully functional.
I think that's low - at least for my area. Test the controllers and if all buttons are working then I'd say count on them being about $15 each. Working 2 port depending on how clean is probably in the $50 - $60 range. Average $2.50 per game and then round up a little for the boxes.
I think you are in the $100 - $120 range. At least I'd start near there if you are going the CL route.
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wongojack.......did he ever reply back to you?
I have not received a reply. Here is the same picture on an ebay listing:
Which seems to have encouraged someone else:
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Intv controller has 3 DPST switches for button (S1,S2,S3). Are you wiring each button to work independently or are you wiring like SMS adapter in the link you posted?
I see 4 buttons on the controller.
They are wired independently from left its S1, S2, S3, S1. I opted not to use the logic gate like he did in the link as I didn't need it for this layout.
I REALLY wanted to make the "menu" button that is on the top function like 1 + 7 (pause), but it was a bit more wiring in a tight space - also, I got impatient to finish. Perhaps I'll figure out a smarter way to include that and add it in on my next attempt.
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I know that I'm late to the party, but I would like to participate in this if possible. I'm in Dallas, TX USA
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Thanks for the comments guys - I'm pretty proud of this. I was going to make a gameplay video last night, but I couldn't find my tripod - doh!
Here are the resources that really helped me complete this project:
http://web.archive.org/web/20060317145051/http://users.erols.com/tiltonj/games/tech/intvsticky.html
http://atariage.com/forums/topic/165229-the-intellivision-controller-matrix-guide/
http://atariage.com/forums/topic/212928-intv2-to-sms-adapter-build/
I also want to just put a plug in for user grips03 - he seems to know what he's doing
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A follow up question here. I've known about the limitation that the keypad and directions can't be used at the same time - how bout the side buttons. Can you press the side button and a direction at the same time and have them both register?
In my recent controller hacking experiment, I seem to notice some inconsistent behavior here. Specifically with Astrosmash . . . .
Edit - I'll add that I know the directions do not overlap with the side buttons in terms of the controller pinout. I think perhaps I was just seeing unique game behavior with Astrosmash and wanting to confirm. Can you shoot and move at the same time in that game? Do others see the ship "stop" occasionally when firing?
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A bit off topic, but has anyone ever "fixed" the Amiga version of DOTC? I'll wander over to lemonamiga and ask, but if someone who knows the game well is going to bring it to Inty (awesome) then I'd love to see an Amiga version with the gameplay elements that were left out put back in - like greek fire and sword fighting that isn't completely lame. Seems like there were some other things that were in the AST & 64 versions that weren't put into the Amiga version because it had to be released quickly. Some of the tournament options come to mind . . . Robin's raids . . . .
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If anyone is reading this thinking "what should he ask for that?" - this was my response. I still went high on my estimates IMO:
Let me help you out a little here as I am an avid classic console collector. A 5200 even in its original packaging isn't worth more than it's original sale price. While it may seem like such a fine collectable item is worth more than it was back in the 80's, the market simply will not meet your asking price here. You can check many pricing guides that are around for a reference, but probably the quickest way to find out what someone might pay would be to look at completed auctions on ebay (where someone actually bid or agreed to buy).
You should include in your ad if this is a 4-port or 2-port system (how many controller ports on front). If a 4 port, does it include the proprietary switch box that connects it to power AND your TV? Have you tested it? Have you tested the "remotes" which are more often referred to as joysticks. Untested items drop quickly in value even if they are near mint. Completely unopened would be another story but still nowhere near what you are asking.
I'm not offering to buy, but I think what you've got here is probably worth:
4-Port 5200 near mint in box with proprietary TV switch, and power adapter - $120
***Without the switch would drop it quite a bit. If it is missing it also means you cannot test the unit which for me would drop the price to around $25
3 untested joysticks $15
***These are almost always non-functioning if they haven't been cleaned and re-furbished. Unfortunately, not tested means not working with these.
If it's a 2 port then you don't have to worry about the proprietary switch and the price stays up around $120, but you should test it and then ask for a bit more. Someone will probably pay up to $200 or maybe $250 for a nice clean system like that - especially if the joysticks have 100% working buttons. Note that is more than almost everyone would have paid for the unit new.
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I contacted him too with a nice long message offering some friendly advice. My advice included the fact that the "remotes" are commonly referred to as joysticks - har.
I found the same picture and price on ebay yesterday too.
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sent a pm back wongojack
Bump for Crimson!
I need another reply from you too
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http://dallas.craigslist.org/sdf/vgm/3964379973.html
"im selling an Atari 5200. it has only been used once and works perfectly and still has the original box and papers. comes with 3 remotes, pac man and dig dug. im asking 1000 but am willing to go a little lower."
This is not my ad, I'm posting it here because it is ridiculous.
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How about Star Wars Arcade? Could be fun to play with the disc.
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I tried to fix an Inty II controller
in Intellivision / Aquarius
Posted
I got an Inty II from CList that was working pretty great, but it was very dirty. I cleaned up the controllers with some lightly damp Q tips - I really got into the corners around the keypad and wiped down the buttons well. There was dirt caked on. After the cleaning, one of my controllers had a non-working side button - Ooops!
Since I've done a lot of work building my own joystick for Inty, this isn't such a big deal. I can use this controller for its keypad and just plug it into my joystick. However, I still wanted to see if I could fix it.
Its S2 that isn't working, so I know that is lines 7,8. I tested them both with a meter and found line 7 is not connecting. However it works on S3 and the middle keypad row, so I was thinking that maybe the contacts are just dirty for this button.
I took apart the controller with the help of Youtube video. That was not a total disaster, but I did break one of the plastic pieces that I'm not sure will glue back on. I think that isn't fatal, but lesson learned there.
The contacts were indeed dirty, so I peeled apart the insert and cleaned the underside very well. I kinda expected this NOT to work because I could get a reading from line 8 on this button - just not line 7. If the contacts were clean enough for 8 then they should be for 7. In the end, the cleaning didn't help.
So I found the place where the trace was indeed "broken" on line 7; it's in a corner where the mylar folds. It makes sense that it would fail here, and I think it stopped working because I was putting a lot of pressure on the controller while cleaning it (rather than water actually getting in).
So I tried to connect the trace with a "conductive pen" - didn't work. Probably because I'm using the cheapest possible version of this type of thing, but it goes everywhere and when it dries it doesn't conduct at all. It's weird because I've used the same pen to quickly touch up 5200 buttons and it has worked for me there. Anyway, on top of the conductive "ink" not connecting the trace, it seems that it removes the original tracing from the Mylar - great.
Basically, I've made it worse in that there is just less trace material than there was before. I'm trying to decide what to do next. Replacing the insert would be ideal, but I don't seem to see those for sale anywhere. If I decide to keep going, I may try to connect a wire to pin 7 at the connector and the other end somehow to the disconnected button. I was thinking maybe I could punch a hole in a wide section of the trace and push a wire through then do some delicate soldering or even just glue it in place so that it makes a connection when pressed.
Anyone been through this kind of thing before and have some advice for me. I'm basically thinking of this as a test run for controller repair, so if it fails then I'll learn from it and just use this controller for it's Keypad. I'd love to hear if anyone else has tried to repair these like this and can give me some advice. Maybe that silver epoxy suff would work better?