wongojack

I know it's a common problem around here, but I couldn't stop myself bidding on this one: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2F330970637293%3FssPageName%3DSTRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT%26_trksid%3Dp3984.m1497.l2649 I have a pretty small collection, so there were quite a few in there that I didn't have, and I like the extra controllers. Box for the voice module is also something that I don't have.

Now we're talking!

I was just trying to confuse everyone with lots of percentages . . . . "30% of the time I'm out every time" But seriously - the DOTC music is great

The Wings kickstarter failed in 2012 and it was an HD release for mobile platforms and PC. I know DOTC was a more popular game, but if the point of the kickstarter is to release on only Intellevision then I'm skeptical that it will succeed. Perhaps an Inty version will spin off as a result, but I don't see it being the main focus of the kickstarter, and it will probably come much later after the actual updated version is produced. DOTC also has a disadvantage in that there are soooo many versions available. The GBA version is pretty awesome, and I can get that for way less than $80. I'd rather see a unique game for Inty with some of the same strategy/story/action elements. I'm more likely to pay $80+ for a new game like that. Also - if it doesn't have the music then I'm 100% out. The music is like 30% of why I absolutely LOVE this game. Edit - you clarified the Wings k'starter timing while I was posting

I'd bet $13.61 that it could. I watch for these on Ebay and that model comes up every so often. I'll probably buy one eventually and tinker with it. That is a good price for it btw. If you want to make your own "hackball," You won't be able to use my info as a guide, but it should be pretty easy to figure out.

I think that's low - at least for my area. Test the controllers and if all buttons are working then I'd say count on them being about $15 each. Working 2 port depending on how clean is probably in the $50 - $60 range. Average $2.50 per game and then round up a little for the boxes. I think you are in the $100 - $120 range. At least I'd start near there if you are going the CL route.

I have not received a reply. Here is the same picture on an ebay listing: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FAtari-5200-Black-Console-NTSC-%2F271238392527%3Fpt%3DVideo_Games%26hash%3Ditem3f27116acf Which seems to have encouraged someone else: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FNEW-RARE-ATARI-5200-SUPERSYSTEM-VIDEO-GAMING-Collectors-DREAM-%2F221240957801%3Fpt%3DVideo_Games%26hash%3Ditem3382fd1b69

They are wired independently from left its S1, S2, S3, S1. I opted not to use the logic gate like he did in the link as I didn't need it for this layout. I REALLY wanted to make the "menu" button that is on the top function like 1 + 7 (pause), but it was a bit more wiring in a tight space - also, I got impatient to finish. Perhaps I'll figure out a smarter way to include that and add it in on my next attempt.

I know that I'm late to the party, but I would like to participate in this if possible. I'm in Dallas, TX USA

Thanks for the comments guys - I'm pretty proud of this. I was going to make a gameplay video last night, but I couldn't find my tripod - doh! Here are the resources that really helped me complete this project: http://web.archive.org/web/20060317145051/http://users.erols.com/tiltonj/games/tech/intvsticky.html http://atariage.com/forums/topic/165229-the-intellivision-controller-matrix-guide/ http://atariage.com/forums/topic/212928-intv2-to-sms-adapter-build/ I also want to just put a plug in for user grips03 - he seems to know what he's doing

A follow up question here. I've known about the limitation that the keypad and directions can't be used at the same time - how bout the side buttons. Can you press the side button and a direction at the same time and have them both register? In my recent controller hacking experiment, I seem to notice some inconsistent behavior here. Specifically with Astrosmash . . . . Edit - I'll add that I know the directions do not overlap with the side buttons in terms of the controller pinout. I think perhaps I was just seeing unique game behavior with Astrosmash and wanting to confirm. Can you shoot and move at the same time in that game? Do others see the ship "stop" occasionally when firing?

A bit off topic, but has anyone ever "fixed" the Amiga version of DOTC? I'll wander over to lemonamiga and ask, but if someone who knows the game well is going to bring it to Inty (awesome) then I'd love to see an Amiga version with the gameplay elements that were left out put back in - like greek fire and sword fighting that isn't completely lame. Seems like there were some other things that were in the AST & 64 versions that weren't put into the Amiga version because it had to be released quickly. Some of the tournament options come to mind . . . Robin's raids . . . .

If anyone is reading this thinking "what should he ask for that?" - this was my response. I still went high on my estimates IMO: Let me help you out a little here as I am an avid classic console collector. A 5200 even in its original packaging isn't worth more than it's original sale price. While it may seem like such a fine collectable item is worth more than it was back in the 80's, the market simply will not meet your asking price here. You can check many pricing guides that are around for a reference, but probably the quickest way to find out what someone might pay would be to look at completed auctions on ebay (where someone actually bid or agreed to buy). You should include in your ad if this is a 4-port or 2-port system (how many controller ports on front). If a 4 port, does it include the proprietary switch box that connects it to power AND your TV? Have you tested it? Have you tested the "remotes" which are more often referred to as joysticks. Untested items drop quickly in value even if they are near mint. Completely unopened would be another story but still nowhere near what you are asking. I'm not offering to buy, but I think what you've got here is probably worth: 4-Port 5200 near mint in box with proprietary TV switch, and power adapter - $120 ***Without the switch would drop it quite a bit. If it is missing it also means you cannot test the unit which for me would drop the price to around $25 3 untested joysticks $15 ***These are almost always non-functioning if they haven't been cleaned and re-furbished. Unfortunately, not tested means not working with these. If it's a 2 port then you don't have to worry about the proprietary switch and the price stays up around $120, but you should test it and then ask for a bit more. Someone will probably pay up to $200 or maybe $250 for a nice clean system like that - especially if the joysticks have 100% working buttons. Note that is more than almost everyone would have paid for the unit new.

I contacted him too with a nice long message offering some friendly advice. My advice included the fact that the "remotes" are commonly referred to as joysticks - har. I found the same picture and price on ebay yesterday too.

Bump for Crimson! I need another reply from you too

http://dallas.craigslist.org/sdf/vgm/3964379973.html "im selling an Atari 5200. it has only been used once and works perfectly and still has the original box and papers. comes with 3 remotes, pac man and dig dug. im asking 1000 but am willing to go a little lower." This is not my ad, I'm posting it here because it is ridiculous.

How about Star Wars Arcade? Could be fun to play with the disc.

Dunno if this has been done yet, but I took it upon myself to make an Inty stick from the good ole Radica Space Invaders Plug & Play game. I thought this side view was a pretty good one. It shows the DB9 out (white cord) to the Inty, and the DB9 in (Black joystick plug) which has a Sears Video Arcade controller plugged into it. This passes through so I have a keypad etc. It's also connected to an AC adapter (center negative . . .) which gives me the volts I need to run the logic gate that allows for true diagonal control. You can also use batteries. Those are the options to power the original game which I utilized for my own maniacal purposes. I guess that I should have made a video of gameplay, but for now, here are the guts. I had to cut my board with an exacto to fit it in place. It probably fits better than the original. I bought the wrong logic chip which complicated the design a bit. This chip requires pull-ups on the outputs, so there are some extra resistors in there to complicate things. I'm not sure getting true diagonal was worth it, but I learned quite a bit in doing this. The Radica game that was in there is now partially disassembled. I harvested some parts from it to help re-build their power switch into my design, and I removed their LED and its plastic case which is also installed in my stick. Most of my time went into prototyping the circuits so I could be sure I understood what needed to happen. I'm not trained in this at all so it was a lot of individual research and trial and error that got me to a working unit. Here's a pic of my prototyping: Once I got that to work, I had to design a way to fit it into the base of the stick. It was a lot of careful and methodical work. I kinda thought it would be easier when I started, but thankfully, I planned very carefully and didn't really have to do any re-soldering. Here's an early version o my hand drawn design for the board that I installed. It's not correct in a couple places, but that's why I had to draw it up. It plays great. I got my highest score ever on Astrosmash on my first try with this thing! Happy to answer questions on this if you want to try and build your own. I have a small pile of these games and may make a couple more of them if there is high interest.

I didn't see Kaboom on the list Solaris is one that takes some time, so in that way its a pretty good value. It'd be nice to have the instructions with it. Millipede is a good suggestion. I see Yar's on the list, if you don't have that its good too, but I think you have to get into the game variations.

Probably has nothing to do with Robot Tank except that game fits snugly. There is a large heatsink on the 7800 right behind the cart slot. When I've had the system's cover off, I can see it clearly. It heats up quickly, but I've never tested it game by game to find out if it does it more in 2600 mode or 7800 mode etc. Its on the label side of your carts . . . Edit - this thread suggests that Robot Tank is one of the few games not compatible with the 7800: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/197369-why-i-should-not-buy-a-7800-to-play-mostly-2600/page__hl__slot?do=findComment&comment=2515527

There is a version of Star Ship with a "unique" label type, but even that isn't really THAT rare. However, I don't have one, and it is the reason that I opened your post.

You should post in the marketplace forum

Good point - no keypad in that one

Wow - that is soooo much cleaner looking then your Beta version. Nice job with the design; very elegant. This is probably in the thread somewhere, but what do you use the 4th button for?

Had a great experience negotiating and dealing with Beard. He put in some extra effort on the packaging too which was much appreciated.