wongojack
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Posts posted by wongojack
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Everyone should have Kaboom!, as it's probably one of the best games ever made for any system.
I didn't see Kaboom on the list
Solaris is one that takes some time, so in that way its a pretty good value. It'd be nice to have the instructions with it. Millipede is a good suggestion. I see Yar's on the list, if you don't have that its good too, but I think you have to get into the game variations.
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Probably has nothing to do with Robot Tank except that game fits snugly. There is a large heatsink on the 7800 right behind the cart slot. When I've had the system's cover off, I can see it clearly. It heats up quickly, but I've never tested it game by game to find out if it does it more in 2600 mode or 7800 mode etc. Its on the label side of your carts . . .
Edit - this thread suggests that Robot Tank is one of the few games not compatible with the 7800:
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24 text label Atari 2600 games. Nothing rare (are there any rare text labels?),
There is a version of Star Ship with a "unique" label type, but even that isn't really THAT rare. However, I don't have one, and it is the reason that I opened your post.
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I found it along with Ms. PAC Man in an Atari box that still has a working 2600, 3 joysticks, two unused paddle controllers (hence why kaboom was never opened) only other games were baseball, combat and Pac man. Anyone wanna offer on the whole package? I bought an adapter today and the system works fine. Still have the atari box as well.
You should post in the marketplace forum
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Where is the num-pad?
Good point - no keypad in that one
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Wow - that is soooo much cleaner looking then your Beta version. Nice job with the design; very elegant. This is probably in the thread somewhere, but what do you use the 4th button for?
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Had a great experience negotiating and dealing with Beard. He put in some extra effort on the packaging too which was much appreciated.
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Another satisfied customer of CC!
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Of course because the receipts that I have that total to $285 totally mean this is worth a mere $30!
He's poking at you because some don't want to modify or change anything about the original hardware. I think your price is beyond reasonable for the work you've done.
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Interesting question. I don't know the answer, but I would imagine that you'd need to figure out why the left channel is not working before trying to tackle combining them.
I'm sure you thought of this, but why not just combine them externally - plug in a splitter to the L/R channels that combines them? Of course you'd need a working Left for this to do anything at all. Some TV's also have a designated 'Mono' port. It should duplicate the signal to both speakers if you plug the working right channel into this port.
EDIT - This was my 300th post!
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Is there a complete list. I want to test a controller customization and I don't think that I have any mentioned in this thread
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Nice thread - thanks for sharing
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I'll bump for you and simply state that the OnLive MicroConsole is pretty much awesomesauce. If you haven't tried OnLive with the MC, you should check it out.
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After much thought on this subject, and with my limited skill... I have decided the best way for me to build a 5200 digital joystick would be to cannibalize a CX-52 controller and a Coin Controlls Competition Pro Joystick. The Competition Pro is pretty much all set up already wiring wise. All I'd have to do is take a new arcade joystick and two cherry buttons and tap into the existing wiring, just like I did with my 7800 stick. I would use X and Y pots from the CX-52 controller as centering levers, mounted somewhere inside the custom housing... and Competition Pro's harness is already set up with it's built in 15 pin port for the CX-52 controller. The hard part would be soldering new buttons to the rev 9 flex for the numeric key pad and "start" "pause" and "reset" buttons.
I am also trying to come up with a decent design for a custom Atari 5200MC (Muti-Controller). The idea is to use an existing CX-53 trak-ball housing. Keep the Trak-Ball functioning while integrating an arcade joystick and replacing the 4 fire buttons with arcade cherry buttons. It would have two wires, one for the ball and one for the stick. I would need to figure out the keypad arrangement since the Trak-Ball and joystick would need their own independent keypad because it's essentially two controllers in one housing, three if you count the CX-52 parts.
It is waaaay easier to just build an adapter for a PC gameport stick or pad.
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Here is a final pic of this cable shaved down a little. This one is working great for me:
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I successfully modified the Radica trackball to plug into my pc. It even has a couple of games built into it.
Pictures and more info here
http://benheck.com/p...pic.php?t=18094
-mike
Old dig, but I wanted to post because I used Mike's post on the BenHeck site along with this one to help me with my own hackball project:
http://forum.arcadec...ic,79675.0.html
Here is an action shot
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Now if only I could find someone to buy this one for my ridiculously high asking price:
http://rover.ebay.co...=item4d0e245d0d
(Note: I really did just post that to amuse myself -- I got bored posting and reposting boatloads of cheap commons one night -- so if anyone here is interested, I assure you I'm not holding out for anything resembling that price. I have absolutely no reason to believe it's valuable in the least.)
Hilarious, Anyone ask you any questions about it?
I just pm'd you with some questions about individual items. Not sure if you are willing to deal here or just trying to direct everyone to your auctions.
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So... are you offering to sell these types of conversions?
I wasn't planning on it, but I would consider some interesting trades. I've stockpiled few of these and the RSI stick for hack projects. I PM'd you with some options.
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added somenew things psp and gameboy advance with prices thx
PM'd
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super necro bump for a helpful topic
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I got a Blonder Tongue ZDM-806 today and hooked it up. You need 2 coax to female RCA connectors (same used for the console to TV) but it works just fine with a 2600 (assume other systems too). The quality of the picture didn't blow me away, but it was a definite improvement from straight RF. It's got video and audio level adjust knobs on the front that give you essentially another lever to turn when figuring out what you want your TV settings to be. The video one seemed to act like a "contrast" adjuster. It certainly gave me more flexibility when adjusting picture settings which is nice.
Anyway, after playing around with the settings on my TV, I am pleased with this device. It seems that putting the Atari right next to it caused some jaggies in the picture, so I don't think its a good idea to stack them, but I could be imagining that. The TV settings that I landed on were: Contrast maxed, Bright lower than middle, Color slight higher than middle, Tint slight lower than middle, Sharp almost maxed.
Best part is that these are all over ebay right now and if you've been wanting to try a demodulator, you can get one of these for about $35 shipped.
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A lot of recent "high" votes for Phoenix will move it up - deservedly so.
Surprised to see Wiz of Wor and Night Driver so low . . .
I thought I had voted, but I just went back about 4 years through the thread and didn't see anything, so here is my list:
1. HERO
2. Megamania
3. Seaquest
4. River Raid
5. Beamrider
6. Pitfall 2
7. Frostbite
8. Space Invaders
9. Chopper Command
10. Empire Strikes Back
and the ones I couldn't fit in:
11. Kaboom
12. Spider Fighter
13. Circus Atari
14. Asteroids
15. Montezuma's Revenge
16. Pitfall
17. Stargate (Same as Defender 2)
18. Warlords
19. Combat
20. Spiderman
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The Atari 2600 core reached 2.0 (with vague references to TIA issues and ROM support up to 16k)
The C64 reached 3.0 but it seems still needs an awkward menu config file instead of an automatic list of files like any other flash cart.
I see none of my stability issues are mentioned in the release notes.
BTW, I wrote a guide to walk you through how to use the Excel macros that build the menus. There is a link to it on the downloads page of the MCC website.
http://mcc-home.com/...er_Instrucs.pdf
This thing didn't even come close to realizing its potential. Emulators work MUCH better than any of the cores on the MCC-216, updates have been far and few between, and none of them really work well.
I'm sorry I bought this, but I guess thats the risk you take sometimes.
After buying it I got motivated and just hooked an old laptop up to my main TV - works great for emulation. Why would I ever use this thing again? It would be one thing if the emulation was easier, but you end up having to learn all about the emulators anyway. Also the VGA version that I bought failed to work on either of my TVs. The guy selling them was cool though. He sent me the Dragon's Lair DVD collection for free cause I complained. I think it also helped that I wrote that walkthrough.
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I just tried to hit the old forum site for this thing and it gave me the equivalent of a 404 (no longer there)
Anyone touched their MCC 216 recently? Is development for this thing dead?
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Intellivision Joystick (Hacked a TV P&P)
in Intellivision / Aquarius
Posted
Dunno if this has been done yet, but I took it upon myself to make an Inty stick from the good ole Radica Space Invaders Plug & Play game.
I thought this side view was a pretty good one. It shows the DB9 out (white cord) to the Inty, and the DB9 in (Black joystick plug) which has a Sears Video Arcade controller plugged into it. This passes through so I have a keypad etc. It's also connected to an AC adapter (center negative . . .) which gives me the volts I need to run the logic gate that allows for true diagonal control. You can also use batteries. Those are the options to power the original game which I utilized for my own maniacal purposes.
I guess that I should have made a video of gameplay, but for now, here are the guts. I had to cut my board with an exacto to fit it in place. It probably fits better than the original.
I bought the wrong logic chip which complicated the design a bit. This chip requires pull-ups on the outputs, so there are some extra resistors in there to complicate things. I'm not sure getting true diagonal was worth it, but I learned quite a bit in doing this. The Radica game that was in there is now partially disassembled. I harvested some parts from it to help re-build their power switch into my design, and I removed their LED and its plastic case which is also installed in my stick.
Most of my time went into prototyping the circuits so I could be sure I understood what needed to happen. I'm not trained in this at all so it was a lot of individual research and trial and error that got me to a working unit. Here's a pic of my prototyping:
Once I got that to work, I had to design a way to fit it into the base of the stick. It was a lot of careful and methodical work. I kinda thought it would be easier when I started, but thankfully, I planned very carefully and didn't really have to do any re-soldering. Here's an early version o my hand drawn design for the board that I installed. It's not correct in a couple places, but that's why I had to draw it up.
It plays great. I got my highest score ever on Astrosmash on my first try with this thing!
Happy to answer questions on this if you want to try and build your own. I have a small pile of these games and may make a couple more of them if there is high interest.