the Goat

I think the LED mod is just to changing up the color.

Will there ever be an RGB mod for the 7800?

Because I was proposing a new feature being added to this design.

I'm not sure why you are being so obtuse. Obviously the PCB would need to be redesigned to accommodate the d-pad. Did you think I expected to just glue on a d-pad and it would magically work?

No actually the controller uses digitally controlled potentiometers. So it would be trivial to have the controller output a fixed value when pressing a direction on the d-pad.

I built two of these controllers. They are outstanding. But they could be better. I want a single controller with both analog and d-pad controls.

The point of a d-pad is you can easily press left or right without accidentally pressing up or down. Or vice versa. The analog stick on these controllers is very difficult to do that with.

What do people think about adding a d-pad to this controller design? The d-pad would be in addition to the analog stick. Pressing a direction on the d-pad would be equivalent to pressing the analog stick to 75% in the same direction. Or some other fixed analog value. I think the d-pad control would help out in several games.

I own a full North American Sega CD set. Tons of great games that are not available anywhere else. Keio Flying Squadron is the best shooter on the system.

Use a screwdriver.

Those look really slick. I wonder how the paint will hold up over time. (not that any 5200 games really make use of those buttons to the extent that the paint will wear off).

Here are (overly detailed) Step by Step instructions for programming the ATTINY85 with TL866A on windows 10: Plug TL866A to USB port Open MiniPro Universal Programmer software (version 6.85) Click menu: <Select IC(S)><Search and Select IC(S)> to open the "Select Device" dialog window Enter "ATTINY85" in Search Device text input field Highlight "ATTINY85" in Device listing Click "Select" button to close "Select Device" dialog window Click menu: <File(F)><Open(O)> to open the "Open" dialog window Navigate to and select "fuse.hex" from smbaker's github Click "Open" to move to the "File load Options" dialog window Select the "CONFIG" ratio button under "To Region" Click "OK" to complete the file open operation Click menu: <File(F)><Open(O)> to open the "Open" dialog window Navigate to and select "5200controller.hex" from smbaker's github Click "Open" to move to the "File load Options" dialog window Select the "Code Memory" ratio button under "To Region" Click "OK" to complete the file open operation Click menu: <Device(D)><Program(P)> to open the "Chip Program" dialog window Insert ATTINY85 chip into TL866A ZIF socket as shown in the "Chip Program" dialog window Click the "Program" button

It is not about the money. I don't want to wait. Programming the ATTINY85 and a D-Sub 15 extension cable (arriving tomorrow) are the only things keeping me from using the new controller.

Thanks, but I have a TL866 not a USBasp ?

Can somebody give step by step instructions for programming the ATTINY85 with a TL866? The instructions on Github state, "Make sure to program both fuses.hex to the fuses, and 5200controller.hex to the program memory." But when I load the .hex files in the MiniPro software I don't see options for fuses or program memory. There is a "To Region" selection with three options: Code Memory Data Memory CONFIG Is code memory == fuse memory? Data memory == program memory?

Outstanding.

I did not read the entire thread (please don't kill me). Is somebody selling these controller boards either assembled or as a kit?

I'm interested in one.

I just installed the Sophia RGB mod in my 5200. When I opened the 5200 I saw that all the main DIPs on the motherboard were already socketed. And one of the pins on the GTIA was bent up so that it was not inserted into the socket. I checked out the GTIA pinout and saw that the bent pin is the trigger 4 input. My 5200 is a two controller variant. So I guess the GTIA trigger 3 and trigger 4 pins are unused? What do people make of the bent trigger 4 pin?

Good to see continued jaguar support from the community!

I'm patiently waiting for new orders to open up...

One of the pins on U38 was making intermittent contact due to PCB damage when the original U38 fried. I added a bypass wire and now everything is working.

I replaced the main power switch. REG1 is outputting five Volts and I hear some audio noise when I turn on the power. So I am certain I fixed the audio issue. But the Jaguar is no longer powering on. Arghhh! This is ridiculously frustrating. The main switch Ohms out fine on both sides. I'll have to make some DMM measurements on the U38 side once I calm down. Right now I'm liable to douse this thing in lighter fluid and put it out of my misery.

Negative. I purchased it knowing it was broken. Clearly the former owner plugged in the wrong power supply as U38 was completely fried when I got it.

Yes, I agree. I I don't think the non populated C40 has anything to do with the missing sound. One side of the switch (pins 1, 2, 3) seems to work as intended. Closed pins show less than an Ohm. The other side of the switch (pins 4, 5, 6) is no good. All resistances are in the MegaOhms or open circuit range.