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the Goat

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Posts posted by the Goat

  3. Posted · Edited by the Goat

    3 minutes ago, DrVenkman said:

    Then why are you posting in this thread instead of starting a new one to propose your design? 

    Because I was proposing a new feature being added to this design.

  4. Posted

    3 minutes ago, DrVenkman said:

    No, actually it uses an analog thumbstick dual-axis potentiometer to start the signal chain, so really it’s an analog-digital-analog circuit. This is all well-documented in Scott’s blog post and throughout the thread. 

     

    And once more, this particular PCB does not support a D-pad. Just use a Masterplay clone or design your own hybrid combination.

    I'm not sure why you are being so obtuse.  Obviously the PCB would need to be redesigned to accommodate the d-pad.  Did you think I expected to just glue on a d-pad and it would magically work?

  5. Posted

    29 minutes ago, DrVenkman said:

    the circuit is analog in nature, not digital (D-pad) converted to analog needed by the 5200. 

    No actually the controller uses digitally controlled potentiometers.  So it would be trivial to have the controller output a fixed value when pressing a direction on the d-pad.

  6. Posted

    4 minutes ago, DrVenkman said:

    I’ve built over 60 of these to sell for others and use them routinely. Your opinion differs greatly from mine.

    I built two of these controllers.  They are outstanding.  But they could be better.

    Quote

    That said, as I also pointed out, if you prefer a D-pad, use a Genesis 3-button controller or compatible and plug it into an inexpensive Masterplay clone. I helpfully linked resources for you to build one above.

    I want a single controller with both analog and d-pad controls.

  7. Posted

    10 hours ago, DrVenkman said:

    The short throw of the Sparkfun thumbstick is honestly very much like a D-pad already in 4-way games.

     

    If you want to use a D-pad, the professionally-manufactured D-pad on the Genesis 3-button controller is way better than almost anything you'd be able to rig up yourself, and you can use one with one of Scott's Masterplay clone controllers, complete with 2-fire buttons.

     

     

    The point of a d-pad is you can easily press left or right without accidentally pressing up or down.  Or vice versa.  The analog stick on these controllers is very difficult to do that with.

  8. Posted

    What do people think about adding a d-pad to this controller design?

     

    The d-pad would be in addition to the analog stick.  Pressing a direction on the d-pad would be equivalent to pressing the analog stick to 75% in the same direction.  Or some other fixed analog value.  I think the d-pad control would help out in several games.

  11. Posted

    4 minutes ago, MakerMatrix said:

    Flooded the top, then turned them upside down and blotted the excess away with a paper towel sitting on my bench.  Then wipe around the edges until it was "clean".  Unlike the photo I recommend doing them one at a time to give the paint less opportunity to seep where you don't want it to seep.

     

    IMG_1790.jpg

    Those look really slick.  I wonder how the paint will hold up over time.  (not that any 5200 games really make use of those buttons to the extent that the paint will wear off).

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1

  12. Posted

    On 9/1/2019 at 2:45 PM, DrVenkman said:

    But if you keep at using the MiniPro and you get it figured out, please post a similar step-by-step in case others want to use that method in the future!

    Here are (overly detailed) Step by Step instructions for programming the ATTINY85 with TL866A on windows 10:

    1. Plug TL866A to USB port
    2. Open MiniPro Universal Programmer software (version 6.85)
    3. Click menu: <Select IC(S)><Search and Select IC(S)> to open the "Select Device" dialog window
    4. Enter "ATTINY85" in Search Device text input field
    5. Highlight "ATTINY85" in Device listing
    6. Click "Select" button to close "Select Device" dialog window
    7. Click menu: <File(F)><Open(O)> to open the "Open" dialog window
    8. Navigate to and select "fuse.hex" from smbaker's github
    9. Click "Open" to move to the "File load Options" dialog window
    10. Select the "CONFIG" ratio button under "To Region"
    11. Click "OK" to complete the file open operation
    12. Click menu: <File(F)><Open(O)> to open the "Open" dialog window
    13. Navigate to and select "5200controller.hex" from smbaker's github
    14. Click "Open" to move to the "File load Options" dialog window
    15. Select the "Code Memory" ratio button under "To Region"
    16. Click "OK" to complete the file open operation
    17. Click menu: <Device(D)><Program(P)> to open the "Chip Program" dialog window
    18. Insert ATTINY85 chip into TL866A ZIF socket as shown in the "Chip Program" dialog window
    19. Click the "Program" button
    • Like 3

  13. Posted

    8 minutes ago, DrVenkman said:

    a USBasp is super cheap (couple bucks on eBay - literally).

    It is not about the money.  I don't want to wait.  Programming the ATTINY85 and a D-Sub 15 extension cable (arriving tomorrow) are the only things keeping me from using the new controller.

  15. Posted

    Can somebody give step by step instructions for programming the ATTINY85 with a TL866?  The instructions on Github state, "Make sure to program both fuses.hex to the fuses, and 5200controller.hex to the program memory."  But when I load the .hex files in the MiniPro software I don't see options for fuses or program memory.

     

    There is a "To Region" selection with three options:

    • Code Memory
    • Data Memory
    • CONFIG

    Is code memory == fuse memory?  Data memory == program memory?

  16. Posted

    3 minutes ago, DrVenkman said:

    I’ve been talking to Scott re a bulk buy of boards to make a batch to sell. Nothing set in stone yet but it’s a possibility. 
     

    I’ll post more if/when I have something worked out. 
     

    Outstanding.

    • Like 1

  18. Posted

    On 8/10/2019 at 11:13 PM, DrVenkman said:

    So anyone interested in a case, my friend is willing to sell them for $25 plus shipping. Not sure of his current resin stocks for button colors - the shell is PLA but the buttons are printed with his laser resin printer for higher resolution. I can get his email/contact info for folks to contact him directly if there's interest. 

    I'm interested in one.

  19. Posted · Edited by the Goat

    I just installed the Sophia RGB mod in my 5200.  When I opened the 5200 I saw that all the main DIPs on the motherboard were already socketed.  And one of the pins on the GTIA was bent up so that it was not inserted into the socket.

     

    I checked out the GTIA pinout and saw that the bent pin is the trigger 4 input.  My 5200 is a two controller variant.  So I guess the GTIA trigger 3 and trigger 4 pins are unused?  What do people make of the bent trigger 4 pin?

    atari 5200 sophia mod.jpg

  23. Posted

    Bingo. Half of the switch controls the main power supply, the other half controls the audio power supply.

    Bypassing the non-working half with a bit of wire should work for testing.

    I replaced the main power switch. REG1 is outputting five Volts and I hear some audio noise when I turn on the power. So I am certain I fixed the audio issue.

     

    But the Jaguar is no longer powering on. Arghhh! This is ridiculously frustrating. The main switch Ohms out fine on both sides. I'll have to make some DMM measurements on the U38 side once I calm down. Right now I'm liable to douse this thing in lighter fluid and put it out of my misery.

  25. Posted · Edited by the Goat

    On my schematic C40 looks like a high frequency decouple cap across the supply to REG1, I cannot see why its omission would cause any real problems.

    Yes, I agree. I I don't think the non populated C40 has anything to do with the missing sound.

     

    Power switches have been known to go bad but the switch is simple enough to check.

    With the power unit disconnected the switch has two rows of 3 pins, in the Off position two pins on each row should be continuously connected (reading close to 0 ohms) and have no connection to the third. In the On position one of the previously connected pins will be continuously connected to the previous unconnected third pin and the other previously connected will be disconnected from the other two.

    If that is what you are getting then the switch is probably OK and you problem lies elsewhere.

    One side of the switch (pins 1, 2, 3) seems to work as intended. Closed pins show less than an Ohm. The other side of the switch (pins 4, 5, 6) is no good. All resistances are in the MegaOhms or open circuit range.
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