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rmzalbar

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About rmzalbar

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  1. How much thickness needs to be shaved from the pads to fix the existing kits?
  2. Darn, I wish there were an indication on his web store that he can't process orders; his page shows as in-stock and ships within a couple of days. I'll wait for a while longer, but I need to set a reminder to submit a case before the statutory limit expires in the event I don't hear back. I really try to avoid that as I know it might cause trouble down the road, and life events must be going poorly if they can't switch off the store.
  3. Oh drat. I placed an order from their website over a month ago, but didn't hear anything from them. I came here to see if anyone knew about them. Any ideas?
  4. I couldn't figure this one out. IIRC, there are bricks that drop you to your death when you step on them, and there's no way to know that in advance, so it's a game of trial and error and memorization. That ended it for me, unless I missed something?
  5. Tonight I put a 75R resistor across the composite output and hooked up an oscilloscope to either side of that resistor, and compared it to the ideal definition. It's pretty close. There is negative DC bias of about 120mv (which is probably not very important) and it is still overamplified by about 117mv P-2-P (which probably does make some difference). I may go back in and tweak some more. Still, it looks pretty good as it is. One of my CRTs seems to drift just a little bit on color reference depending on what's on the screen, but nothing else does.
  6. I ended up replacing all wiring with 75-ohm mini coax. Of course, the impedance isn't so important on the input side of the amp, as the Intellivision output isn't even close to 75R, but the shielded wire should have helped anyway. It made no difference however. I suspect the noise I see when the Intellivision is "thinking" (looks like faint, marching checkerboard squares on large areas of solid color) is actually 5V power supply level shifting. If so, maybe running my own 5V regulator off the 12V line as some suggest with the solarfox mod might be the ticket there.
  7. Didn't take a photo of the after, but I just removed both resistors and reattached them piggybacked to a 22k and an 18k to change the total values. Reducing the resistance of the lower resistor reduces the amplification of the second transistor by a lot. If you think the smear is related to RC filtering, you could try smaller values for the three 100uf capacitors in the video section, which are the upper two and the lower left. Joe Zbiciak page explains that smaller values (even as low as 4.7uf?) might even be better. I do think there's some room for improvement, as sharpness doesn't quite equal the RF output even after my changes. The page also suggests that "smearing of solid areas might be fixed by a large (2000uf??!) capacitor between +5vdc and GND." I tried this, because I am getting some digital noise visible in solid areas while the Intellivision is accessing RAM, and it made no difference, so I removed it. The board and the patch wires are all running underneath the power supply board and its wiring, and I have a feeling that maybe replacing it with coax might help, so I'll try that tonight. If that doesn't do it, I'll hook up the scope and see if I can figure out where it's getting into the video.
  8. It looks like the same design as the Joe Zbiciak schematic on the Intellivision wiki, with a minor difference of a 680R substituted for 660R, and a much bigger change of 47R substituted for 22R. I installed the Retrofix one, which is also reference design except with the 680R instead of the 660R (which really makes little difference.) However, on my 2609 (Intellivision I) I had awful video on both LCDs and my real CRTs, with the wrong colors overdriven to the point where everything was compressed up into some neon green nuclear waste zone, with blurry colors bleeding everywhere. So today I decided to play with the resistors and was able to get normal video with the following two changes: I first replaced 680R with the reference 660R which brought some improvement, and then replaced the reference 22K with a 10K (actully I piggybacked an 18k so the exact value is 9.9K but that's close enough). This made a huge difference and brought sharp video with correct colors for all my LCDs and CRTs. I do not know why the reference design was so poor for my unit. I should have hooked it to an oscilloscope, but I've never looked at a composite signal before so I would have had to learn what was acceptable first. Anyway.. I also replaced the modulator as mine was getting its sound mixed into the video (Astrosmash test..) so now I have great composite and great RF.
  9. Look up pictures of 'IC DIP lead frame' to get an idea of how much leeway you have when digging for a place to solder. You can actually do quite a bit of grinding without much fear, especially if it's further from the center. The leads themselves are a flat plate, so you should try to get some surface area either on top or on bottom exposed, rather than the snapped-off edge.
  10. I'm getting good video for both my 1200XL and 800XL on SV2.1, but I would like to install UAV to gain control of the artifact colors. I guess I should take a good look at the manual to see where it patches in.
  11. Does anyone know if the Super Video 2.1 modifications for 800XL and 1200XL will interfere with a new UAV installation? Should these modifications be reversed first?
  12. With photos, there's a good chance someone would in fact be able to identify their specific item - tiny blemishes in the print, a wrinkle in the cellophane, a pattern of fading, a mark left by a shop sticker - any little detail could be recognizable to the owner even on sight, let alone by simply comparing against personal high-quality photos. I'm not a huge fan of collector culture, but I really sympathize hard with collectors who get robbed. It's pretty dumb to steal this kind of stuff, and people who do it usually get what's coming to them.
  13. I received mine on Saturday. It's an excellent game! This may be the best version of Defender of the Crown with respect to gameplay and balance. I love the integration of knights and catapults into the battles, and the inclusion of local resistance to conquest. My housemate and I were talking about how hard to believe it is an Intellivision while playing. I'm curious how large the rom is? Certainly this is too big to have been possible in the classic days.
  14. OK, I just finished installing the mod, and it works!! I'm uploading a project file for MiniPro v6.85, for use with the TL866. Loading this project will import the program data and the correct fuse byte settings. All you need to do is pop in a chip and hit Program. If you're doing this from scratch with Bryan's file: - Launch MiniPro and select ATTINY45 as the program target. - Load the default\jvc_mod.hex file as File Format INTEL HEX and To Region CODE MEMORY - On the right side of the window, under Buff. Select click Config - Set the following checkboxes: Low Byte: 0xE2 (check SUT0, CKSEL3, CKSEL2, CKSEL0) High Byte: 0xDD (check SPIEN, BODLEVEL1) Extended: 0xFF (no settings) Lock: 0xFF (no settings) - Drop in your ATTINY45 chip and click Program. That's it. Don't try to use the .ELF file, MiniPro doesn't interpret it correctly; the result is garbled data and settings. Thank you Bryan for creating this awesome thing, and also MitchSchaft for showing his work (I used your method of a breakout board on top, except that I routed the wires around to the underside of the board for easier soldering). jvc_mod_MiniPro.zip
  15. I did read that there were some issues with ATTiny fuse bit setting/reading protocol in some versions of MiniPro a couple years back, so maybe that was your issue and it could be fixed now. I'm trying with MiniPro 6.85. I think all I need to know are the correct settings (or the fuse bytes) to give it a try. EDIT: based on Bryan's description of CPU flags, I think it's this: "Brown-out at 2.7V and Internal RC @8MHz 6CK/14CK + 64ms" Running that through this calculator: http://eleccelerator.com/fusecalc/fusecalc.php?chip=attiny45&LOW=E1&HIGH=DF&EXTENDED=FF&LOCKBIT=FF - Low Byte: 0xE2 (set SUT0, CKSEL3, CKSEL2, CKSEL0) - High Byte: 0xDD (set SPIEN, BODLEVEL1=0) - Extended: 0xFF (no settings) - Lock: 0xFF (no settings.. no need to lock it, of course!)
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