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Everything posted by cbmeeks

  1. I absolutely second a modern PSU. Please don't use the original one as they are notorious for destroying C64's.
  2. I have a C128 PSU at home. If I can remember, I will take it apart and snap a pic.
  3. I bought a IIc a while back and when I opened it up, I discovered it had a Z80/RAM card in it. I don't remember the model but starts with a Z I think. Also had like 512 KiB of RAM on board.
  4. Very good work on cleaning up that equipment!
  5. I had a C128 that was super white. I put it in a box completely void of any light in a climate controlled room for about four years. When I opened it up one day it was almost the color of my breadbin C64. I think there are many factors that yellow equipment. Anyway, just saying. 🙂
  6. I also have an 800XL if that makes a difference.
  7. I have an Ultimate II+ for my C64. And, honestly, it's overkill for what I need. So what do we have along those lines for my Atari 800? The primary goal would be to play games and use Fast BASIC. I don't want to spend a lot if I can help it. Also, I have lots of building/soldering experience, ROM programmers, etc. So if I could "cheap out", I would be OK with that too. 🙂 Thanks for any suggestions.
  8. This is most excellent news. I am learning FPGA design myself and I've always wanted to create a "TMS9918-ish" chip that is meant to be much more basic. For example, no GPU, no scrolling, etc.
  9. Well I accidentally burned the socket but like I said. Tired. Lol The PEB is pretty decked out. So I am excited. I ordered a NanoPEB so that’s going to be fun too.
  10. Success! It was the termination after all. In fact, I clearly found this mentioned in the manual. So stupid on my part. The drive still makes that really loud clanking sound when the head drops down to read. I can visually see it hitting the bar. Seems like a poor design. I formatted a disk several times and saved a file. Thanks to everyone for the help! Not my best soldering job but I was tired and it was pretty dark. I may either buy a proper resistor pack or just remove the two sockets and put the resistors in directly.
  11. SIDE TOPIC You know, I actually have an 8" drive.... Might be a fun project getting it to work after the Shugart drive. ;-D
  12. Yep. This was recently brought to my attention. I was unaware of that. So I am crossing my fingers that this will fix the issue. Also, like you mentioned, that board could probably use a recap. I've already cleaned it real good, lubed the rails, etc.
  13. Well, what I was going to do is just push the resistors into the socket already on the board to test. If that works, I was then going to solder the resistors into another socket and insert that. Mainly because the existing socket looks a little crusty and I was thinking of vibrations. I'm not sure how worn out those connectors are. The more I think about it, I might just test it and if it works, remove that old socket and solder in something better. It's not like I'm going to put this drive in another machine. I move that PEB around a bit and would hate for something to shake loose.
  14. Oh, I got sockets galore. I will probably just solder up a machine socket with the resistors and insert that into the existing socket on the board. That way, it won't be permanent and reduce any stress on that ancient board.
  15. Dangit! If only I didn't have to work today....I'll have to try that this evening. 🙂 Thanks again!
  16. So would that be 150 ohms for all 8 locations?
  17. Ah! So, any idea what needs to be in there? IIRC, there are 16 pins (8 jumper locations).
  18. Hmm. I'm not quite sure I know what you mean. Although I have the manual, it's pretty light on schematics and details. It has a socket in for "shunt" type connections which the manual says is for selecting the drive number. However, it also has an empty socket next to it that I have no idea what it's for. My gut feeling tells me the drive is probably OK. I just don't have it configured properly. I know there's no practical reason to use a full height drive in 2020. I will only drag out the PEB for nostalgia anyway. 🙂
  19. I appreciate the offer but I think I will either use two half-height or see if I can repair the Shugart. Thanks
  20. I have another thread going about my floppy drive with my PEB but thought I would ask a different question here. In my struggles to make the floppy drive work, I noticed I accidentally bent pin 3 and destroyed it on my floppy drive controller. IIRC, this is just another ground pin and many cables have that pin blocked off (that's how I accidentally destroyed it). Now, I could easily replace the floppy connector if I needed to. But it doesn't seem to matter as I got two different drives to work. Is there any harm in leaving that pin broken off?
  21. OK, good news and bad news. I think the culprit is that Shugart drive. That loud "clanking" sound when the drive heads clamp down sounds really loud. So I think the jumper settings are either wrong and/or the drive is just bad. Next I put a 3.5" 1.44 MiB drive in, located an old Amiga floppy and chose 40 tracks, single sided and single density and it formatted! Not only that, it passed the diagnostic tests. Which means the controller is good. Next, I dug out an old 5 1/4" drive (1.2 MiB) and sure enough, it worked as well! Naturally, the next move was to load the only TI-99/4A software I own on floppy disk. So I am super excited that after 38 YEARS, I finally have a floppy drive setup for my TI-99/4A. No more cassette saving for me! hahaha Now, I have to admit, I'm a little disappointed that my Shugart drive isn't working. I really wanted a single full height drive in that PEB. I do happen to have TWO 5 1/4" drives that are half-height. So I guess I could, in theory, install both of them. But they are beige in color. Not that it matters but I liked the look of the black face plate. Which brings me to some more questions. 1) Should I keep looking for a full-height drive to finally fulfill my dream PEB? 2) Should I use my last two 5 1/4" drives that are the wrong color. If so, would DSK2 work with the "twist" in the cable? 3) Should I do something crazy like a 5 1/4" drive and a 3.5" too? Opinions welcomed!
  22. Thanks for the suggestions. So, I made sure the twist was not used. Still same thing. I downloaded the manual for the Shugart 400L and, if I am reading this correct, the jumpers should be set correctly for a single drive system and drive 1. So I believe "HL and "1" are closed (drive 1). 2,3,MX,4,MH are OPEN. When I attempt to test the drive, I hear the heads (or something) clamp down pretty hard. But no LED. Then error 16. If I CLOSE "MH", the same thing happens but this time, I get the LED coming on when it's performing a test. The drive has been properly cleaned and lubed. The only other drives I have are 1.2 MiB floppy drives which I'm pretty sure won't work. I have no idea if this drive actually works. Not sure how to test it other than maybe see if it works in my 486. Oh, here is the snippet of the manual:
  23. I have a single 5 1/4" floppy (SA400L I believe). I also have the disk controller, obviously, in my PEB. When I try to run the Disk Manager (any version 1 - 3) and perform any tests, I get "DISK ERROR 16". Which I believe means no drive present. Now, when I power on the PEB, the drive LED comes on and makes a click...like the heads are clamping down. Then the LED goes off. I power on the TI and it does it again. On the disk drive end of the cable, I am using the old 5 1/4" connector. On the controller end, I am using the 34 pin "newer" connector. Sorry, I'm not sure what the actual names are. So the cable I have is 34 pin to TWO 5 1/4" connectors. One has a twist. I've tried both. Sorry, I'm running out the door but I can include pics, etc. later if needed. Just hoping someone knows of something stupid I am doing. Thanks for any suggestions.
  24. I just bought a NanoPEB. I bought a 32K side car a few years ago and fried the RAM because (like a dummy), I didn't realize the card didn't have a 7805 or anything to regulate the voltage. Looks like the NanoPEB doesn't either. Which is a little disappointing. Shoot...I bet it wouldn't be too hard to remove the jack and put a tiny board in it's place with a properly regulated jack. Note to designers...please regulate your power! Sometimes we make a mistake and plug in 12V DC wall warts in these things without thinking! (yeah...shame on me but I did it)
  25. Thanks to the both of you for some great suggestions. I probably didn't make much sense. I tend to get these ideas in my head and they kinda explode out into forum messages...I read them back and think..."what was I thinking??" lol OK, so the real point of the two goals was that I wanted a completely "vintage" TI setup with a PEB. Like we had back in the 80's. With the ability to print, play on BBS's, etc. Also, to load/save stuff to actual disks. I believe I mostly have that now. The only exception is the newer SAM memory card that is 1 MiB. I would love the get the 32K version that was released in the 80's but that doesn't make practical sense because I have the newer card. Still, I'd like to have it. But at $80 for one...I'll pass for now. So that's my vintage setup....the setup I bring out time to time and pretend it's 1982. Then there's the "every day" TI. The TI I will actually use most of the time. On this TI, printing is just a whim...I don't have to have that with my every day TI. BBS support would be nice. I already have that WiModem (or whatever it's called). I went ahead and bought the NanoPEB. This seemed to be more practical for my needs. It has a real serial port, emulates three floppies and has 32KiB. The TIPI just doesn't appeal to me. I know it's a great product. I already have several RPi's. Now, let the fun begin!
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