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-^Cro§Bow^-

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About -^Cro§Bow^-

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  • Custom Status
    Collector of Fine Atari and Sega Antiquities!
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ivory Tower, Fantasia (Oklahoma)
  • Interests
    Atari 2600,5200,7800,PC games, Sega; Classic games

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  1. Just wait until you find yourself having to battle more of them...and corrupted versions of them too!!! For me the last battle of the main game was crazy easy because I completed TFW first before finishing the main game. To me it still flows well doing this because fairly early in the game just as you first leave the Nora lands, you are asked to talk to someone in the Cut. So really at that point they almost expect you to get started on that portion of the game at just about anytime. Again, I'm glad I did because I ended up with much better weapons and armor to tackle the last few remaining missions of the main storyline. I was able to get everything done minus the sun trials. Just not a huge fan of timed stuff like that and much prefer to plan and experiment with the machine enemies.
  2. I had one that didn't work. It was a combination of a few things. The first main issue was that there were several breaks in the actual controller cord itself internally. I was never quite able to find where they were so I just used the cable from a parts 5200 controller that still had a good cable. That at least got the keypad responding again. I also ended up having to really clean out and refurbish the start and reset buttons on my keypad controller as well. Nothing major just take the switches out and apart and clean them up well with electrical contact cleaner and alcohol. I now use it with my 5200 redemption adapter I purchased from another AA member not that long ago along with a 3 button genesis controller. For any games where the analog really controls better, I use a stock 5200 controllers. However, Missile Command, Centipede and Xari Arena can really only be enjoyed with a trak-ball controller.
  3. Well, I can't answer all your questions but I can tell you about the experiences I've had with the arcade games I own and friends of mine who have had their own personal arcades etc. First, the money is a big part of this. I've gotten lucky in that my first arcade game was a Frogger I found at the local flea market for only $50. It wasn't working but for another $50 it was. So that Frogger was an initial $100 investment. Since then, it has required well over $300 to keep it running for the past 13 years. Most of my other arcade games I've spent between $175 - $400 for them. I've spent about as much on each in maintaining them over the years in actual parts and my time. Space is another huge part of it. You don't just need the physical space, you need space that isn't too exposed to the elements. I happen to keep mine along the back wall of my garage and while it isn't climate controlled, they aren't getting a bunch of moisture or critters all over them either. The other part of the space, is the electrical power requirements. Most home outlets in your house are only rated for a total of 15amps on any single circuit. On average an older arcade game uses about 2amps give or take when powered on. Meaning, you don't want to run more than about 4 arcade cabs on a single circuit. Yes...4 x 2 only equals 8, but that circuit is likely to be shared by other devices in the home plugged off it as well. Most of my buddies with actual full arcades in their basements, garages, or separate storage buildings all had professional electrical ran for the specifics of running all of their machines. As for the physical space, most uprights I estimate to take up about 3 square feet of space. That gives space for ventilation around the cabinet plus you standing in front of it. Naturally some cabs are larger/wider and require even more. On the subject of repair, this is the big one. You see, original cabs are 30+ years old in many cases. Lots of stuff needs to be replaced if it hasn't already and will continue to need replacing. When these cabs were built they were done so with the intention that they last a specific cycle of use. So...really only designed to be work horses for 12 hour daily use for about 6months to a year. That is because new games were always coming out and often, games that didn't perform as well as others were sold off or converted to other games in arcades. If one died out after that first year of operation, most arcade operators didn't care and just got rid of them in favor of something new. That isn't to say they aren't designed to be repaired because they are. But it requires some good skills and basics with electronics to keep them alive. The biggest concern we face with our original arcade cabinets today is the CRT tubes themselves. We can't really get any new ones. So when a tube or monitor chassis dies, we have to get them from other donor arcade cabs that require other parts but have good CRTs etc in them. There are conversions for many where you can put an LCD in them instead but that is a whole other school of thought with lots of people okay with it and most...not. Again, nothing concrete detail wise, just some basic info so you know what you are in for.
  4. Don't know on the others but I can tell you that Risky Rick is hardware designed to not be dumped correctly.
  5. This is really looking amazing! I was only able to get to level 12 on the binary I played over the weekend. I had the same ball stuck condition happen that happened to @sramirez2008 only mine was stuck on the column to the left of where his got stuck. And the default sounds being made from the TIA on this are excellent as well. I only had the PC version of Revenge of when I was younger but the sounds and graphics so far are bringing back those flood of memories.
  6. Thanks Rafał, The new firmware file needs to be on the root of the SD card and the flashing 'P' only flashed for maybe a second on my Lynx II. I did not get the EE status when I did it but it seems to have worked because the new method is described in the redone manual and works great on the 1-9 speed dial or preset games. In looking at the manual, it appears to the be same version you initially sent to me to go over and edit?
  7. I thought it was all obvious from the beginning? I've not been following this thread since then as I've no real interest in the VCS. Is it done and all that now?
  8. I'm not looking for any Saturn images as again I ripped my own games from my own collection that I put on my SD card. And I got my Rhea from a friend locally who somehow had a couple of them. As a favor to me for some mod work I did for him sometime back, he presented me with a model 1 Saturn with a Rhea already installed and ready to go. I just had to supply the SD card and my make my images for it. Very nice and I'm lucky to have gotten one for use. Keeps the wear and handling of my Saturn originals to a minimum.
  9. My personal 5200 is modded with Joe's board in it as I did that several years ago. But I haven't any 5200s sent to me for UAV work in some time else I'd be happy to check it out. I had thought about working with Magic Knight's 7800 s-video board to see if it can be adapted to the 5200 as well since quite a few of the video taps are nearly the same as that of the 7800, but I just haven't had the time lately.
  10. I always use the 4050 still and piggy back it on top of the UAV like I did in my 5200 UAV installation video. I'm still not sure how Bryan got his to work without the 4050 because everyone else I've spoke with that has done UAVs in 5200s has stated they still needed the 4050 in circuit and it is a sure fire way to make sure that it will work.
  11. Ah... that explains it then. The paddle built into Curt Vendel's 7800 arcade controller is flipped on with a switch in port 1 of the console. Oh well...at least that answers that question, thanks!
  12. I have 3 wico controllers and 1 of the keypad controllers. While I really like the keypad controller, I'm honestly NOT a fan of the Wico controller. I always have centering issues with mine and 2 of them are broken internally from the plastic locks no longer engaging. As a result on one if just flops around left and right and the other flops around up and down. I have one that works well but they just seem really fragile to me. I only play using an original controller or with my redemption adapter and a Genesis controller.
  13. Is paddle mode actually working on this yet? I can't seem to get any paddle response when using my 7800 Arcade Pro controller from Curt Vendel although I know the paddle worked fine in other games I tested it with.
  14. Got to be a short in the level select switch most likely? Perhaps the spring that pulls the switch back up came loose inside the switch? I've had that happen on a light 6 switcher once. I could never get the spring to sit properly and just replaced the switch from another dead donor parts 2600.
  15. Then you don't likely want to AV mod your 5200. I've not tested the VCS adapter with the UAV in place, but I can tell you without doubt that a VCS adapter will not work with the electronicsentimentalities board kit in place since you have to lift and connect pins directly off the GTIA to the mod board. As a result the RF and the rest of the video circuit in the 5200 isn't used since the mod board replaces all of that with new composite and s-video outputs. So the VCS adapter is a no go. I've not tested it with a UAV but the UAV sits in the middle of the circuit and still allows the stock video circuit to do its thing through to the RF modulator. Anyone tested a VCS with a UAV in place?
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