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-^CrossBow^-

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Posts posted by -^CrossBow^-


  1. 2 hours ago, John Stamos Mullet said:

    Doesn't having that many components in between the console and the TV produce an unplayable amount of lag?

     

     

    I'm sure there might be some as the Extron is an old commercial grade scaler/converter dating from 2003. But if there is, I'm not noticing it and it is much much less than the lag I was getting from the old s-video/CVBS to HDMI converter I was using before.

    • Like 1

  2. No the OSSC is VGA, SCART RGB, and Component YUV input only. Because of that I have an Extron 7SC that I plug all of my composite, most of my other component and s-video outputs into that. It then converts all inputs into a VGA output that I can lock down to 480P. I send that to the OSSC VGA input along with audio and that goes HDMI to my actual TV in the game room. 

     


  3. 7 hours ago, RevEng said:

    This sort of problem with flow control could either be a bad jump, bankswitch, or whatnot, or it could be a hardware issue. The fact that the problem with Popeye didn't manifest when Versa was used, demonstrates it's a hardware issue in that case. Perhaps it's the same here too, since many people can't reproduce it.

     

    But a hardware issue where? The 7800? The DF cart? That is what we are trying to figure out. The fact that @john_q_atari has this happening to some degree on 3 different 7800s that he has in his possession would indicate it isn't the 7800 as it is unlikely that he would own three of them with the same hardware error right?

    • Like 1

  4. 17 minutes ago, John Stamos Mullet said:

    I mean - it's outputting a stable picture so that's an improvement from my wonky setup. 
     

    but watching the side by side - I have to say the colors look better/more natural on the composite/switch video. The colors on the Retrovision cables looks way overdriven and garish. Like someone went into the TV settings and turned the color and the contrast knobs all the way up to "bleeding eyeballs" maximum setting. 
     

     

    I use a set of HDR cables on my 32x but it is going straight into my OSSC. I couldn't stand composite output from my Genesis because Text was near impossible to read on some RPGs on my flatpanel. S-video looked great but has the jail bar issue that model 1 units suffer from. But my Genesis looks better than any of my other consoles through my OSSC including the RGB ones.

     

    • Like 1

  5. 1 hour ago, the_crayon_king said:

    @-^CrossBow^- I have some things to take care of but I should be done with the (hopefully) final design in a day or so. Swapping them out will be easy enough. I am using through holes instead of pads this time. I prefer using through holes (and I need them for quick testing) but people should be cautious not to short wires through the bottom down to the Intellivision motherboard. I removed the solder jumpers and instead just left through hole jumpers (since they both do the same thing). I may add the solder jumpers back if space allows. I will let you know as soon as I have something of a date for these.

     

    I did fix one of the broken model 1's I had laying around. The issue was those two transistors (which seems to be a common problem).

     

    The 12 ohm resistor tested good but since it was discolored I replaced it:

    https://i.imgur.com/esthgTW.jpg

     

    The bottom side of the transistor through holes looked scorched:

    https://i.imgur.com/bGVgx63.jpg

     

    The top side looks even more scorched (this is the new transistors installed):

    https://i.imgur.com/QFfE1IC.jpg

     

    I used 2N3906 transistors and a 12.0 OHM 3W resistor

     

    This might possibly be something people should do as a bit of preventive maintenance.

    Awesome news and yes I agree with the through holes. I trim that stuff in most cases like with the UAV for example. But that also means I have to attach the wires to the board before installing the board. 

     

    And yes those 3906s are known to burn out over time. I actually do replace them out on Intelly model 1s that are sent to me for service. Even if it is working, I will replace them out anyway for good measure. I actually use 2907s instead of the original 3906s as I have a bunch of those on hand and I think they are rated slightly higher in spec. They don't seem to get quite as hot but that could just be me.

     


  6. I can tell you that it is highly likely they are all sharing the same ground as that has been my experience with those dongle like cables in the past. 7 pins would also correlate to Chroma, Luma, Left , Right Audio, Composite, and Ground. That would only leave one pin unaccounted for. Could be a second ground but could also be nothing at all.

     


  7. 15 hours ago, John Stamos Mullet said:

    My main gaming TV only has HDMI inputs (Samsung 55" QLED series) and I just found out the hard way that adding a Sega 32x to a Genesis through a Retrotink 2x mini is complete crap because the 32X outputs a weird, non-standard chroma signal that the Tink can't lock onto.

    Are you using RGB out from the 32x for this or s-video? I did an s-video mod on a client's 32x recently and they also told me that on their SMS and 32x they can't get a color picture to come through on the tink2x but on their old CRT it works fine? I've never known about this because I don't have a Tink2x myself.

     

    I use my Extron 7SC to my OSSC and then to my TV and that has worked great. But before that my JVC SX-700 into a cheap s-video to HDMI converter worked good as well.

     

    So you are now the second person I've heard tell about the 32x not working with a Tink2x. But I can tell you that HDRetrovision cables into my OSSC does work and that looked really good just like Steve mentioned above.

     


  8. 23 minutes ago, shiz said:

    So the power supply HAS to be going to the cartridge? I might have a problem, I got this French 7800 and it has a totally different input, tried with another 9 volt 2A power supply which did fit on the cartridge but the cartridge itself wont turn on no matter which swich I turn on/flip

    IMG_20210505_193221_488.jpg

    Yes the DF requires its own power supply. 9v 1.5A with polarity center positive in your case since the 7800 would be powered separately.

     

    So in your case, you will need two different PSUs. The one you have now for your 7800 still connected to the 7800 and your other one plugged into the DF cart to power it.

     

     


  9. It wouldn't hurt to add a bit more overall to the U shaped cutout on the bottom for the controller tray post. I've seen some variants in that and warping over time that can make that be a pain sometimes when trying to swap over power boards. So In this case making that opening larger than needed by even a full 1mm would be better since it doesn't need to be tight there.

     

    • Like 1

  10. Depending on the design of the din port you end up taking off a graphics card, etc. I'm going to guess you are trying to do this because you have a male dongle cable that has the s-video, audio, and possibly composite attached all at once?

     

    In any event, you could remove the RF modulator off the 7800 and then depending on the AV out, it could then be soldered upside down onto the ground tracks where the RF modulator was and then further reinforced with some epoxy behind it. That would give you the ground you need and allow for the din connector pins to stick up so you can solder to them easy.

     

    Similar to what I do with my RGB installs I've done recently.

     


  11. I currently have my 7800 running with EXO A35 and I'm parked in the lower right facing to the right like you were in the pics. Been running about 10min now without any issue. I've even occasionally pick up the controller and move a room up or down and back to the same spot. So far so good on my end.

     


  12. 2 hours ago, AtariBrian said:

    A new one would be welcomed but I doubt anyone would want that giant brick hanging on the wall. 

    He stated it would be made with modern parts. That means it would be a switching type of supply. It might likely still be in an enclosure or wall wort like design, but wouldn't weigh a brick either. My main request is that if you did go with a wall wort solution, do NOT put the prongs sideways! I get it when plugged into a wall outlet the sideways plug idea is good. But on a power strip it sucks.

     


  13. 44 minutes ago, the_crayon_king said:

     

    Just finished the video. It's great and a lot better than anything I can put together. The install methods are better than what I have been doing I might have to borrow some of that. I am now curious how you tackle RGB installs on the model 2 since that is currently a thorn in my side.

     

    One note though. As I have recently learned I wouldn't recommend removing those 75 ohm resistors for any reason. Whatever you have to do in order not to remove those resistors is my recommended action. 

     

    If you have series resistors in your cable you won't get the correct voltages but it shouldn't be harmful.

    I understand the desire to use the same cable for everything but I don't know how to incorporate the Sega cables without adding the THS7374., which while cheap would bloat the board.

    Thanks for the kind words! I mainly put it together because this would be the 3rd time I've installed your board into a system and as I knew the install process would be the same for this board and your newer ones I figured it would be a good valid tutorial of sorts for others.

     

    I actually advised to LEAVE those in at first and only try removing them if you need to. In my case using a set of the Insurrection Industries Gen 2 RGB SCART cables the picture wasn't that much different in brightness as those RGB installs that don't have them in place.

     

    On the RGB install, I've only done mine in this manner. On my intellivision 2, what I did was to remove the RF modulator completely. I then used a 9-pin Genesis/MD 2 AV port. Soldered it upside down on the large exposed ground plane where the RF output was. I then fed my wires from the RGB board to the AV out through one of the holes that the RF modulator used for the anchors. I still mounted your board on the bottom of the PCB but places it near where the RF modulator was so that the wiring could be made as short as possible to avoid any additional interference. If you look at the pics I posted on my Intelly 2 RGB install in this thread, you will see that I added the 10µf cap directly off my small breakout board I have on the 9-pin din and then ran the wire from that cap back to the same spot near the RF modulator where the original audio input wire was. 

     

    The main difference I think between what you were doing and what I'm doing is that I try and keep everything on the mainboard as much as possible and only have the new AV jacks be separate. Using connectors as I do in the wiring allows for the mainboard and mod to all come out together without having to desolder any wiring in the process. This is how I try and do all of my service work on consoles.

     

    Soon as that new version is ready, you let me know! Should be a trivial matter to swap out the one I have in my Intelly 2 with the new version once ready.

     


  14. 15 hours ago, Muddyfunster said:

    Thanks @john_q_atari Can you grab any pictures of what you are describing with the corruption please? I'd like to see if there is any indication there of something awry.

     

    I'd be really interested to see if anyone else has any issues on an NTSC machine with Dragonfly, right now I'm scratching my head.

     

    I am unable to recreate this on actual hardware on my PAL set up using Alpha 35.

    I haven't tried this particular combination that @john_q_atari has described but I'm happy to do so. I've left the game running idles for at least several hours a few different times and haven't experienced any lockups aside from the one I found in a previous build when landing in a particular spot on one of the new worlds that you promptly fixed.

     

    For the record, I sent @john_q_atari a copy of the Alpha 35 ROM I've been using from my DF and FW file to try and he still had the same lockup issues.

     

    I hate to say it, but it is looking more and more like a possible issue with his DF cart itself at this point? He has tried 3 different 7800s and at least 2 different sources of the ROM image with the same lockups. I will see if I can fire it up tonight when I get home from work and see if this triggers something on my 7800 later unless someone else is able to get to it before me.

     

    • Thanks 1

  15. Ever wanted better video output from your Intellivision console? Maybe? There are few options for video upgrades on the Intellivision with pretty much only composite solutions openly available to the masses. However, all of the various composite kits have their plus and minus. Some over saturate some of the colors and they look wrong, others aren't totally compatible with all TVs etc. There was an RGB output solution a few years back but it too had some compatibility issues with different scalers and converters and isn't commonly available. Today's video, ITC#75 takes a look at more recent option for the Intellivision that provides us with YUV or component video output using a dual purpose RGB/YUV board designed by AtariAge member 'The_Crayon_King'. His RGB board solution is a nice small PCB that makes installation quite versatile. While the RGB output of Crayon's board still gave me compatibility issues, the YUV output from this earlier design board of his has worked quite well for me. I go over the details of the board and go over the complete installation process of installing one Crayon's boards into an Intellivision model 2 console using the YUV output. The_Crayon_King has already developed a newer version of this board that provides much improved RGB compatibility with devices like the Framemeister and OSSC. However, the new board still features YUV output and the design of the newer board is close to this older one with pretty much the exact same install process being needed. 

     

    Thank you for watching and I hope this helps others looking to install one of these older kits or one of his newer ones when they are available.

     

     


  16. So if I'm reading a post on FB correctly, it appears that Fred's older RGB for the Intellivision actually works with the new Tink5x without issues? That is good news and I would suspect that Crayon's older board and obviously upcoming newly designed board, would as well. I thought about getting a tink5x but I really don't have a pressing need for one with my current setup using the OSSC.

     

    Anyway, just thought @the_crayon_king would be interested to know this.

     

    I also released a video this morning installing one of your boards into another Intellivision 2 console. This was one of your older boards sold on ebay so I wired it up for component YUV output only as I wanted to provide the best compatibility I could for the client that owns this particular Intellivision 2.

     

     

    • Like 1

  17. See in my company we will only run solid core in the walls and install patch plates with the drops on them etc. Then use stranded wire patch cables from the wall plates to the network devices. I've had some of my customers have to delay installation of their new equipment through my company because I found their stuff attached to terminated solid core wiring and I won't allow it when installing new equipment for reliability reasons. My customers usually thank me in the form that I rarely get network wiring related calls that I have to go out on.

     

    And I've seen lots of modders use old cat5 wires inside the console. It isn't as brittle as the cheap stuff, but it will still break with not too much effort.

     

    I use 24awg stranded to the output jacks on the wiring I use. I buy in 10ribbon strands of like 10ft at a time and then cut them into 12inch strips to actually use for service work.

     

    • Like 1

  18. I use 26awg solid core on my data lines but I've used 30awg before. But that is pretty brittle stuff so I mainly use it for trace repairs where I can then use some nail polish to hold it in place. But I've done quite a few UAV installs using it as well. However, I would never use it for the output wiring as that has to be flexibly stuff.

     


  19. 21 minutes ago, CPUWIZ said:

     

    Yep, you saw the one behind the phone and microscope. :D

    I figured the answer would be more as I wouldn't have been surprised in the least if you technically had 1 or 2 more as breadboards scattered around that bench.

     


  20. 3 hours ago, john_q_atari said:

    My dragonfly came from rj with Pokeymax and YM installed and I was also originally using the sd card supplied by rj with the dragonfly. I used both separate power supplies with the console and 7800 and passthrough with the dragonfly providing the console with power.

     

    When I switched to the Samsung 16GB card I used fresh copies of the game downloaded from atariage.

    I'm still using the microSD that shipped with mine. Only changes I've made to it was to remove all of the PAL stuff since my main 7800 isn't able to play PAL. I don't think it is a power issue as you have ruled that out anyway using a different and more than capable enough external PSU to power the DF cart with. I think we can rule out the 7800s at this point being the issue since you have the issue happening on 3 different ones and I'm guessing the other 2 are still stock?

     

    The only other difference that I know of is that I edit the A78 headers in my Roms. I do it manually through a hex editor to add in or change the game title to reflect a version # or build, or date of the rom so I can keep them apart in testing.

     

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